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post #1 of 5 Old 12-23-2010, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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saw blades

Hello, this is my first try here. Just wondering if anyone has heard of ridge carbide saws. I was thinking about buying one for my mitre saw but I'm wondering if it would be a waste of money. My goal would be to eliminate the chipout that has been happening. Thanks.
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post #2 of 5 Old 12-23-2010, 09:47 AM
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I use Freud blades not the Diablo line but I heard they were good also for the price. They have a ultra fine 80 tooth blade that gives a nice cut and it's also available in similar Diablo blade.

I have the Freud Premier/ Fusion on my table saw which is probably in the same conversation as the Woodworker II and the Ridge TS2000 evidently. I think it was well worth the money for a table saw. It may be worth it for you Miter saw depending on what your using it for, Me I would find a less expensive alternative. I think I spent $50 on my RAS blade but its for cross cutting and I didn't need another $100 blade for that.

Last edited by rrbrown; 12-23-2010 at 10:13 AM.
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post #3 of 5 Old 12-23-2010, 09:54 AM
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My choice for a great miter saw blade is the Tenryu W-25580CB1. And, it's a bit less expensive than the Ridge blade.
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post #4 of 5 Old 12-23-2010, 12:06 PM
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My 2 cents - I use a Freud Diablo D1080X, 80 tooth on my miter saw. Crosscuts on hardwoods come off looking polished and I have no chip-out problems. I am totally happy with this blade. It's $50 at your local big box store and about $45 online.

Bill
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post #5 of 5 Old 12-23-2010, 04:39 PM
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Stilts - Ridge Carbide is one of just a handful of elite manufactures IMHO....Infinity, Forrest, Freud's top blades, and Tenryu are a few others. The least amount of tearout will come from a blade with a Hi-ATB grind, which is just a modified ATB (alternate top bevel) grind with a steeper bevel angle. Basically the higher the bevel, the less tearout there will be. Higher tooth count, and lower hook angle also help combine for less tearout, but there's never a free lunch... for every design characteristic that helps improve one aspect of cutting, there's a downside somewhere else.

The downsides...the steeper the top bevel angle, the faster the tips will abrade (but a hobbyist should still get good "mileage" between sharpenings). The higher the tooth count, the more resistance there is, which takes more power, is slower cutting, and is more prone to burning. The lower the hook angle, the slower the cutting also. A few other parameters play some role too, but basically there's a balance of the design choices.

You didn't mention what your saw is or what size blade you need, which makes a specific suggestion tough, but generally in the range of 60 to 80 teeth is a happy medium for crosscutting. I wouldn't hesitate to go with a blade from any of the brands above if the blade suits the situation. Ridge Carbide has some good choices that I'm aware of, as does Infinity, the Forrest Duraline series should also do well, and the Freud LU80 is suitable (from their former Premier series).
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