Stilts - Ridge Carbide is one of just a handful of elite manufactures IMHO....Infinity, Forrest, Freud's top blades, and Tenryu are a few others. The least amount of tearout will come from a blade with a Hi-ATB grind, which is just a modified ATB (alternate top bevel) grind with a steeper bevel angle. Basically the higher the bevel, the less tearout there will be. Higher tooth count, and lower hook angle also help combine for less tearout, but there's never a free lunch... for every design characteristic that helps improve one aspect of cutting, there's a downside somewhere else.
The downsides...the steeper the top bevel angle, the faster the tips will abrade (but a hobbyist should still get good "mileage" between sharpenings). The higher the tooth count, the more resistance there is, which takes more power, is slower cutting, and is more prone to burning. The lower the hook angle, the slower the cutting also. A few other parameters play some role too, but basically there's a balance of the design choices.
You didn't mention what your saw is or what size blade you need, which makes a specific suggestion tough, but generally in the range of 60 to 80 teeth is a happy medium for crosscutting. I wouldn't hesitate to go with a blade from any of the brands above if the blade suits the situation. Ridge Carbide has some good choices that I'm aware of, as does Infinity, the Forrest Duraline series should also do well, and the Freud LU80 is suitable (from their former Premier series).