Sanded Ply - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Sanded Ply

Hi all, new here and fairly new to the craft. Wanting to start building as a hobby but want to make useful pieces. I'm trying to figure out if I would be capable of tackling the task of a kitchen island. My question is, is sanded plywood decent for use in this projec? Intentions are to paint it in oppose to stain.
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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A little advice

Is sanded plywood a good alternative to hardwoods for kitchen island?
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post #3 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 12:08 PM
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Eli,
Since you have not shared the plans for the island, the best advice I can provide: Sanded ply can be an important component of your island. Cabinetry usually contains plywood as an parts of the construction along with solid wood parts.

Steve
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Not too sure about plans. Still trying to weigh my options. I did think of doing a 3/4 sanded ply for interior walls and base, but was wondering if it's a good material for the exterior walls and face frame. I don't intend on staining, just a good paint. Would sanded ply work well with stain?
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 01:44 PM
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I just have a feeling when you say "3/4 sanded" ply, you are referencing construction grade 'pine' plywood.

I use 1/2 inch or sometimes 3/4 birch or maple or other good cabinet quality ply on the interior parts all the time. Those interior parts I never stain or paint, just seal with a clear sealer. For the face frame, door frames, etc, I always use solid wood. Even if something is going to be painted, I will use maple or popular as the primary wood and ply. My preference in the way I build cabinets. There are many guys who like using the hardwood MDF board.

Can you stain plywood? If you are getting a good quality hardwood ply, you can buy the correct species to match the frames and it can be stained to look just like the frame. This can be a good option for exposed sides and for a flat panel option for your doors.

Other ply, like most pine construction grade I would not even consider using in my cabinets, let alone stain or paint it where it could be seen. It is just not meant to be used in cabinetry, it warps and is best used for rough construction. There are many threads in this forum where plywood quality and availability is discussed.

My answer to your question on stain versus paint, it is your choice with the criteria being the quality of the ply you use and the look you are going for. Just be sure to invest in good cabinet quality plywood and then either option will be fine.

Steve
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 02:05 PM
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Go ahead and use the best construction 3/4" plywood that you can find for the dimensional stability.


Instead of paint on the top surface, glue and trim a sheet of Arborite as the work surface.
It's more durable than paint and easily covered with another sheet of another color, any time you like.


Do something colorful. Orange, green, bright blue, etc. Kitchens should not be dull holes of labor.
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post #7 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I was honestly only considering the plywood so I don't spend so much on hardwood sheet goods. Beiing as it's my first attempt at making cabinets, I didn't want to ruin a perfectly good sheet of wood. I should consider just jumping in and taking the risk. I feel I have enough know how to manage a decent job. Lol
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 04:17 PM
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Generally the plywood known as sanded plywood is white pine plywood. It would work well for interior parts however it would be more labor intensive for things like the side of a cabinet. When the plywood is sanded it tends to wallow out the soft parts of the grain so to paint it you have to put multiple coats of primer on sanding between coats so you don't see the texture of the wood in the paint. It's not that much of a savings over birch to be worth that trouble.
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
... It's not that much of a savings over birch to be worth that trouble.
That sentence alone is the best advice you will get for your question. The 15 or 20 bucks you save could cost you well more than 20 bucks in hassle factor. And if you don't like the way your first real project turns out you may quit the hobby, possibly for unnecessary reasons.

I bought the very best golf clubs I could afford when I tried the game. Therefore whatever happened was of my making, without blame for inferior equipment.

Spend the extra money, get a good grade of ply, and stand a great chance for success.

Another $000,000,000.02 worth of advice,
Mark
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 05:07 PM
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Kitchen Island

Eli - not knowing where you are from or sources around you,
this is my idea of a nice island on a budget that I use when
I intend to sell or rent out a house.
I go to my local surplus store and buy some base cabinets
for the design I have in mind - - - and a solid wood door (36x80)
arrange the cabinets in the order that you like and screw them together.
the tall skinny cabinet on the left is for cutting boards and baking pans.
of course, your design can vary to your needs and budget.
after the cabinets are tightly assembled, I stapled some plain white bead-board around the carcass and added some base molding.
after final assembly, I cut the door to shape and covered it with Wilsonart.
then a coat of primer and semi-gloss acrylic enamel. wa-la, done.
this is an easy project for the novice with limited tools and workspace.
since this is an all wood project, and there is a fair amount of carpentry
involved, design and layout skills, it is still a really nice project for the
first time builder. (this is an excellent weekend project).
[this is the forth island I have made using this concept].
then after your skills improve, you can tackle the more complex projects
and move the island out to your garage for a nice work station.
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I am a painter: that's what I do, I like to paint things.

Last edited by John Smith_inFL; 11-27-2018 at 05:36 PM.
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post #11 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 06:25 PM
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John, that island is really working smart, particularly using a door for the top.
I would ask that the top extend another full 2" beyond the cabinet body, just at one end.
I want edge to clamp some simple appliances like a meat-grinder, a pasta machine or an apple peeler.


I have a big kitchen but I, too, have Eli's puzzle = I want an island.
Right now, it's a rolling portable GE dishwasher and there's no useful overhanging bench top anywhere..
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post #12 of 12 Old 11-27-2018, 08:15 PM
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Brian - I use the solid core wood doors because they are usually about
10-$15 at my surplus store. I can not make a solid counter top for
that price. of course you can make any kind of top you want.
solid walnut if you so desire. the door is 1-5/8" thick so it will
accommodate the clamp on tools. I cut this door top to 75" long
so if you duplicated this example, you would have plenty of
room on the end for clamp on tools. I am very comfortable with
laminates. that is why I choose Wilsonart for the counter tops.
and I say again - just because you are fastening pre-built cabinets
together, there is still some skill involved to get it to look professional.
you have to fill the hardware holes prior to applying the laminate.
if you take a visit to your local Habitat for Humanity outlet store,
you will find some very useful items that you can repurpose for your
home really cheap.
[and if a 36" x 80" door is a bit small, you can always add to it
before you apply the laminate - and nobody will ever know].
best of luck in your projects !!

.

.
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Last edited by John Smith_inFL; 11-27-2018 at 08:28 PM.
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