Sand paper recommendation - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 04-04-2019, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Sand paper recommendation

What brand of sandpaper should I use for sharpening hand plane and chisels? I know whetstone and diamond plate are better options but also more expensive.

Can I use 3M wetordry? I think itís mainly use on auto body though.





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post #2 of 27 Old 04-04-2019, 09:25 PM
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I would get yourself some Arkansas stones. They will last you a lifetime and never get dull.
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post #3 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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At the moment I would like to use sandpaper for now but will definitely consider stones in the future


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post #4 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 01:50 AM
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If you are looking for a good value, consider the Klingspor random boxes. Here is the one I ordered by mistake, but it turned out to be a happy mistake. I think the same might be good for you:

https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/bb00001/

See this thread, especially the last post, which has photos and a spreadsheet:

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/s...dpaper-186777/
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post #5 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 03:05 AM Thread Starter
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That is very good value but I think I need higher grits.

Anyone try these before?

3M 03021 Wetordry 9" x 11" Sandpaper Sheet with Assorted Grit Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ49X6..._R2VPCb4BQCMWN


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post #6 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dws780 View Post
That is very good value but I think I need higher grits.

Anyone try these before?

3M 03021 Wetordry 9" x 11" Sandpaper Sheet with Assorted Grit Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ49X6..._R2VPCb4BQCMWN


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I use 3m wet or dry for a lot of different tasks, it is good stuff.

For sharpening just make sure you are using it on a flat surface, I have a granite inspection plate I use, some use a piece of glass.

Last edited by shoot summ; 04-05-2019 at 09:01 AM.
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post #7 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dws780 View Post
That is very good value but I think I need higher grits.

Anyone try these before?

3M 03021 Wetordry 9" x 11" Sandpaper Sheet with Assorted Grit Sizes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ49X6..._R2VPCb4BQCMWN


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I do not think you will have much use for the 220 and 400 in the package.


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post #8 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 08:49 AM
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Whet stones are not more money than sandpaper in rolls. I bought mine in 1971 and it is still working fine.

Amazon sells them for under $20.00. or a Dual side Norton abrasive for about the same price. With sand paper you will have to glue it to a flat surface for a good edge. Not so for a stone.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=arkansas+...nb_sb_ss_i_1_7

Norton stone: https://www.amazon.com/Norton-614636...%2C135&sr=8-34
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post #9 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Whet stones are not more money than sandpaper in rolls. I bought mine in 1971 and it is still working fine.



Amazon sells them for under $20.00. or a Dual side Norton abrasive for about the same price. With sand paper you will have to glue it to a flat surface for a good edge. Not so for a stone.



https://www.amazon.com/s?k=arkansas+...nb_sb_ss_i_1_7



Norton stone: https://www.amazon.com/Norton-614636...%2C135&sr=8-34


Maybe because I was looking at the shapton glass stone. In general stones will require maintenance to get it flat again by using another stone or a diamond stone and some require to soak in water for a period of time before using. I see really good reviews on the trend diamond stone. Trend DWS/CP8/FC 8-Inch Double-Sided Professional Diamond Bench Stone with Clearance Channels, Fine/Coarse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RZJ0F0..._5H1PCbM97JDA1




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post #10 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 10:14 AM
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I think you'd end up spending more money on replacing the sandpaper--not even in the long term.
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post #11 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 02:50 PM
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Eh, sandpaper and a flat surface is still cheaper than a stone large enough to do most plane blades comfortably, and more reliably flat. You can get a 9x12 granite surface plate for about $25, and $50 worth of sandpaper, and you'll be set for the next decade of sharpening on a surface that'll never go out of flat because you aren't wearing away the surface, and will never go dull because you're replacing the abrasive as needed. A mineral-based stone, your Arkansas stones and water stones and the like, will all wear away with use and the surface won't stay flat. A diamond stone will stay flat, but the cutting action does dull over time. Plus, a decently sized diamond stone from a reputable manufacturer usually runs in the $100 neighborhood, touch more expensive than the sandpaper.

I'd say keep on with your plan for sandpaper sharpening, its a fantastic way of doing things. You'll always be working with sharp abrasives, so the cutting action is faster, you'll always have a surface as flat as when you started, and you can go from 220 to 2500 grit without having to shell out for 18 different stones. As far as paper goes, I like the Rhynowet Redline paper:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...Q6-sMySgm8V-VW

I use that for sharpening my planes as well as polishing knives I make, best I've found in terms of cost, longevity and results

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post #12 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 04:53 PM
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Eh, sandpaper and a flat surface is still cheaper than a stone large enough to do most plane blades comfortably, and more reliably flat. You can get a 9x12 granite surface plate for about $25, and $50 worth of sandpaper, and you'll be set for the next decade of sharpening on a surface that'll never go out of flat because you aren't wearing away the surface, and will never go dull because you're replacing the abrasive as needed. A mineral-based stone, your Arkansas stones and water stones and the like, will all wear away with use and the surface won't stay flat. A diamond stone will stay flat, but the cutting action does dull over time. Plus, a decently sized diamond stone from a reputable manufacturer usually runs in the $100 neighborhood, touch more expensive than the sandpaper.

I'd say keep on with your plan for sandpaper sharpening, its a fantastic way of doing things. You'll always be working with sharp abrasives, so the cutting action is faster, you'll always have a surface as flat as when you started, and you can go from 220 to 2500 grit without having to shell out for 18 different stones. As far as paper goes, I like the Rhynowet Redline paper:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...Q6-sMySgm8V-VW

I use that for sharpening my planes as well as polishing knives I make, best I've found in terms of cost, longevity and results
I hate wet stones, the only ones I consistently use is on a sear honing jig, there is no good replacement for it...

A little WD40 under the paper on the plate keeps it in place quite well, and if I want I have an 8x11 surface to work on.
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post #13 of 27 Old 04-05-2019, 05:16 PM
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Here are a few thoughts that nobody has mentioned yet:

* Sandpaper sheets must be replaced frequently as they wear. It may not be so much about cost as it is about the time it takes to stop, remove the old sheet, and put down the next sheet.

* Sandpaper may be the only reasonable solution for some tasks, such as flattening the iron (cast iron base) of a hand plane, especially the longer ones.

* Sandpaper may be a better solution if you have a lot of work to do. (I am thinking of a hand plane iron or a plane blade with a bad hollow.) Very course sandpaper may do a faster job of removing material compared with a finer "stone", but it will leave deep scratches, too.

* There may be confusion between whetstones (e.g., Arkansas stones), water stones (aka "Japanese water stones"), and diamond "stones" (diamond plates). They are used in similar ways, but they are very different and have different requirements. Water stones and whetstones require periodic flattening. A web search will teach you more.

* It can take a lot of time and effort to flatten larger blades, such as the back of a hand plane blade or a wide chisel. It also depends on the condition when you start. There is a lot of hard steel there. It may take much more sandpaper than you think to finish the job. How much you use will also depend on your personal sharpening standards. If you have a many blades to sharpen, or they are wide chisels and plane blades, or they start out in bad shape, then it may be less expensive to use stones.
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post #14 of 27 Old 04-06-2019, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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I just want to restore two Stanley planes so I think the sand papers will get the job done. Stones will add up quickly on all the different grits.


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post #15 of 27 Old 04-07-2019, 11:44 AM
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I frequently use the fine wet or dry sandpaper on a piece of granite counter top material for my sharpening needs that I picked up free from a local granite counter top shop. Pieces in the 1-2 foot square size are scrap to them, and they haul it to the dump. Although not high quality flat when compared to a machinist's granite block, it's plenty flat enough for anything a woodworker would want to use it for, and it was the perfect price, FREE.

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post #16 of 27 Old 04-07-2019, 12:47 PM
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I just want to restore two Stanley planes so I think the sand papers will get the job done. Stones will add up quickly on all the different grits.


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You do not need "all the different grits. " One stone with two different sides. I have an arkansas stone with a hard and a soft side.



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post #17 of 27 Old 04-07-2019, 08:59 PM
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As you can read...LOTS!!!...of perspectives and view points...LOL

Quote:
Originally Posted by dws780 View Post
...Can I use 3M wetordry?
Yes...I use it all the time for many different "sharpening"...and..."honing" jobs...

Quote:
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I just want to restore two Stanley planes so I think the sand papers will get the job done. Stones will add up quickly on all the different grits...
If this is all you need it for, and not sharpening to do a lot of different kinds of woodworking, then I agree with you fully...Sandpaper will more than get the job done for you...

It does (of course?!) have to be mounted (with adhesive or water) to a flat surface...

Find a system that works for you (there are many out there) each has its place and application...water stone, wet stone, oil stone, diamond, etc....They can all work and work well equally for their given task and method.

I personally do not recommend "mixing" restoration, sharpening, and/or honing methods unless you really..."KNOW"...the tool(s), the goals for them, and have perfected a myriad of sharpening and honing systems that gain you the intended outcome...Sharp is a relative thing...not an absolute...

Don't confuse sharpening, with honing...and it seems (???) all you need or want to do is "restoration," so sandpaper will get you there...

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post #18 of 27 Old 04-07-2019, 11:43 PM
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I've got a cut off of granite that I use with sandpaper. Generally get good results, I'd like to get a set of stones eventually but I see nothing wrong with the sandpaper system.



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post #19 of 27 Old 04-07-2019, 11:45 PM
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After buying Trend diamond plates like the 8x3" 300/1000 "grit" stone, I gave away all my Arkansas soft and hard stones and do not miss them.


Achieving a sharp and strong working edge on chisels, planes, knives, and other edges have never been better or easier.



While others are talking about water stones, Wa****a whetstones, and sandpapers, I've already sharpened my kit and am back at work.



Go ahead and try the sandpaper route for now. When you can, try a Trend diamond plate. The ease and speed of getting an edge is incredible.

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post #20 of 27 Old 04-08-2019, 05:17 PM
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I use diamond plates now but used wet and dry silicon carbide very successfully for years. I do like the diamond plates, they are better but not significantly better. I always had pretty good luck with the 3M paper I got from body shop suppliers or at the automotive parts counter. If you are looking for a brand that will last longer Klingspor "C weight" paper is hard to beat. It is not cheaper then the 3M paper but it will out cut and outlast the 3M paper. I tried other brands and no name brands from Amazon and it was a waste of time and money. There might be some cheap stuff available but in my experience it's not worth the aggravation.
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