Sagging Door Need Help - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 08-04-2013, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Sagging Door Need Help

I have a hollow core bedroom door that is sagging. When I lift up on the door knob and pull up it closes fine. Wife opened the other day and scratched hardwood floor. Tried shimming up door and tightening hinge screws. Helped somewhat. Few screw holes seem a bit stripped. What should I do?
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post #2 of 21 Old 08-04-2013, 03:47 PM
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Golf tees or wooden matches, to start with.
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post #3 of 21 Old 08-04-2013, 03:57 PM
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Remove the hinges from the jamb and set the door aside.

Apply wood glue to a dowel, golf tee, chopstick etc, the diameter of the holes or a little larger.

Insert into the hole and tap firmly with a hammer until the plug is firmly seated.

Wait thirty minutes for the glue to set.

Cut or snap the plugs off flush with the hinge mortise.

Rehang door.

When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did in his
sleep. Not yelling and screaming like the passengers in his car.

Jack Handey
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post #4 of 21 Old 08-04-2013, 06:02 PM
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I would move the door strike down or take a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and enlarge the hole.
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post #5 of 21 Old 08-04-2013, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jharris2 View Post
Remove the hinges from the jamb and set the door aside.

Apply wood glue to a dowel, golf tee, chopstick etc, the diameter of the holes or a little larger.

Insert into the hole and tap firmly with a hammer until the plug is firmly seated.

Wait thirty minutes for the glue to set.

Cut or snap the plugs off flush with the hinge mortise.

Rehang door.
+1 This is the correct procedure.

George
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post #6 of 21 Old 08-04-2013, 08:09 PM
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do 2 holes at a time ...

You can also do 2 holes at a time ... leaving the door on it's hinges rather that rehanging it.
Just remove 2 of the 4 screws, drive in the tees or toothpicks if the holes are small enough, with some glue or epoxy and then break them off after it's set up. Then replace the other 2 screws. The screws at the top hinge are the issue. The weight of the hollow core door is minimal, but any pressure on the knob downward tends to pull on the top screws.
Make certain you use some longer screws that go all the way into the 2 x 4 frame, not just the casing as is normally done, IF you want a permanent repair. Pre-drill the hole for the longer screws using the body of the screw as the size for your drill.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 21 Old 08-04-2013, 08:24 PM
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Remove one screw from the top hinge. Replace the screw with one of the same diameter but 3" to 4" long. Tighten the screw until the door closes properly.

I should add: lube the heck out of the long screw. Palmolive DW liquid, wax from a toilet ring, mushy soap. In effect you are pulling the door jamb into a perpendicular position with the floor. The screw is going into the studs that frame the door opening.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.

Last edited by rrich; 08-05-2013 at 01:59 AM.
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post #8 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 12:22 PM
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rrich wins the prize. Screws into the studs will pull it up.
Bill
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post #9 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 12:44 PM
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Many of the hinge screws that come with the hinges are #9 x 1". It doesn't take a much longer screw to pull up the hinge. I would get at least a 2" to 2" sheet metal type screw (not a tapered wood screw), with a phillips head, or a square drive. If you can't find a #9, use a #8. Coarse thread drywall type screws work well.

I would definitely pilot the hole with an 1/8" bit, and use a cordless drill on slow speed. when near tight, just bump the trigger until the screw is seated. Don't drive it in at speed.





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post #10 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 12:55 PM
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Hollow core doors can be a bummer. If the problem is on the jam side, longer screws will definitely help. If it is on the door side, you are pretty well stuck with the matchstick/toothpick/golf tee approach. The last few years the frames of the hollow doors has shrunk substantially. I've had one case where I had to mortise out the whole hinge area and glue in a piece of 2x4.

John

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post #11 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 01:22 PM
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i always try longer screws first - all around - but 2-3 in on top jamb side. if not enough, a cardboard (back of tablet) shim behind lower hinge to re-plumb door into opening. someimtes 2 under lower hinge and one under center hinge if 3.
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post #12 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 01:53 PM
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Be careful using long screws. If the original installer case hung the door and you drive them in too hard you can change the reveal between the door and jamb and change the lockset aignment.

When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did in his
sleep. Not yelling and screaming like the passengers in his car.

Jack Handey
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post #13 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben
Hollow core doors can be a bummer. If the problem is on the jam side, longer screws will definitely help. If it is on the door side, you are pretty well stuck with the matchstick/toothpick/golf tee approach. The last few years the frames of the hollow doors has shrunk substantially. I've had one case where I had to mortise out the whole hinge area and glue in a piece of 2x4.
Your right....door quality sucks today. I bought some moderately priced hollow core doors to replace some that were kicked in when we moved in to the house....I kid you not, they were made of cardboard with a veneer. I took them all back and bought some elsewhere that were only slightly better.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #14 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan50hrl View Post
Your right....door quality sucks today. I bought some moderately priced hollow core doors to replace some that were kicked in when we moved in to the house....I kid you not, they were made of cardboard with a veneer. I took them all back and bought some elsewhere that were only slightly better.
but you can now buy them for $22. For most people they love that. For wood workers it's a cryin shame ;-)
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post #15 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 04:35 PM
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but you can now buy them for $22. For most people they love that. For wood workers it's a cryin shame ;-)
The last one I mortised out, the perimeter frame of the door was only about 3/4", if that. On the other hand, made it pretty easy to hollow out and put a real chunk of wood in there.

John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood

Last edited by jschaben; 08-05-2013 at 04:37 PM.
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post #16 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 07:56 PM
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I'll take my "prize" now

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Make certain you use some longer screws that go all the way into the 2 x 4 frame, not just the casing as is normally done, IF you want a permanent repair. Pre-drill the hole for the longer screws using the body of the screw as the size for your drill.
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rrich wins the prize. Screws into the studs will pull it up.
Bill
If you're givin' out prizes let's be fair.... just sayin'

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #17 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 08:20 PM
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If you're givin' out prizes let's be fair.... just sayin'
Here ya go...just sayin'.







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post #18 of 21 Old 08-05-2013, 09:28 PM
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The prize here goes to the OP and any other person that benefits from all the input we've given.

Yes?

When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did in his
sleep. Not yelling and screaming like the passengers in his car.

Jack Handey
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post #19 of 21 Old 08-06-2013, 11:33 AM
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Oh crap!
I forgot to add that the prize is lunch at Buffalo Wild Wings in Tupelo.
Come on down.
Bill
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post #20 of 21 Old 08-06-2013, 11:46 AM
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Oh crap!
I forgot to add that the prize is lunch at Buffalo Wild Wings in Tupelo.
Come on down.
Bill

All you can eat...mountain oysters.






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