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post #1 of 14 Old 07-21-2020, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Router templates

Any members making plastic router templates? Looking for a rectangle 3-4x9-10. Going to repair an old oak door and will be doing an inlay. Figured a plastic template would save me the time of building an wooden one...
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post #2 of 14 Old 07-21-2020, 03:33 PM
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for just a short use plain rectangle, I usually glue boards together.
that way there is no intricate cutting. plexiglass has its place,
but, most of the time, it is too thin for a bearing pattern bit.
how deep will you be routing the part in the door ??
3/4" thick wood works best for me.

Router templates-1496fefd07ab8bdefdaf621989f0abc5.jpg

if you have a very specific style or shape other than just a plain straight sided
rectangle, you would have to provide some sketches or drawings of it
to put us all on the same page as you.
why do you think it takes less time to make a plastic template vs a wooden one ??

.

there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks.

Last edited by John Smith_inFL; 07-21-2020 at 04:07 PM.
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post #3 of 14 Old 07-21-2020, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Well, that certainly is effective and faster than cutting pastic. Think I’ll give that a try!
Thanks.
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post #4 of 14 Old 07-22-2020, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Im not sure depth of cut yet. I bought 1/4 x 4 oak to do the patch. Really only need a thin layer, but was thinking of going just shy of 1/4 and sanding to flush. I thought about resawing it thinner on my bandsaw, but never did that and didnt know if it was a good idea.
Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.
Thanks
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-22-2020, 11:34 AM
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if you construct a wooden form as in my drawing above,
you can glue in your "Dutchman" patch that is a little taller
than the door surface. once the glue/epoxy dries/cures solid,
you can use the same wooden form as a "mini-sled" to
remove the excess patch down to almost flush. that would
minimize the sanding that would have to be done.

it would be nice if you could post some photos of the project
from start to finish. I have always been interested in different
methods of making Dutchman repairs.
I have not used the inserts that go into the router base plates in years.
I use pattern bits with a bearing almost exclusively.

.

there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks.

Last edited by John Smith_inFL; 07-22-2020 at 11:36 AM.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-22-2020, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Bought a nice, new oak door from a builder in a housing project. His guys drilled the wrong height, so I got it for next to nothing. Picture shows the holes and on top is the oak strip I plan to inlay.
Would be handy if I had a thicks planer and could get it to 1/8th or less. But I dont. (maybe time to think about one!)
Was going to cut pine To fill when holes and theN inlay new oak to cover it all up. Re drill and install at my house.
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-22-2020, 02:04 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Holes? inlay? Pine?

Can't figure out what you actually would like to do.
I would stick with Oak, rather than mix in Pine, no matter where you are talking about. Round Oak dowels are available from online sources IF you want to plug those holes ...? Holes are drilled at the wrong height? For what .... dowels or hinges ..?
Cutting an 1/8" strip is easy on your table saw. You don't need a thickness planer AND it's too thin for that regardless!


Looks like the door is sitting on the top of a chest freezer?





Quote:
Originally Posted by Whardman View Post
Bought a nice, new oak door from a builder in a housing project. His guys drilled the wrong height, so I got it for next to nothing. Picture shows the holes and on top is the oak strip I plan to inlay.
Would be handy if I had a thick’s planer and could get it to 1/8th or less. But I don’t. (maybe time to think about one!)
Was going to cut pine To fill when holes and theN inlay new oak to cover it all up. Re drill and install at my house.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-22-2020 at 02:11 PM.
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-22-2020, 02:38 PM
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a photo of the hardware that you will be installing may
shed some more light on other possible options.
and in your photos so far, they are way too close and we
can't really decypher the overall project.
will the door be stained, clear coated or painted ??

here are some instructions from the Administrator on how to
post photos in this forum:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f33/...r-posts-63933/

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there is no educational alternative to having a front row seat in the School of Hard Knocks.

Last edited by John Smith_inFL; 07-22-2020 at 03:50 PM.
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-22-2020, 05:11 PM
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I would just replace or repair the jamb and use the hardware heights as is. Very hard to make a repair in the door at that location and not have it noticeable.


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post #10 of 14 Old 07-23-2020, 01:38 AM
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I've used quarter inch MDF for virtually every router template I've ever made. Take whole sheets and cut squares out of it on the table saw, pieces of MDF can be taped on the inside for any other details. I swear I had hundreds of full size door templates fully made just hanging around until the next time I needed that exact one. I like doing it that way as I can just use a collar on my router to make the cut.


As far as re veneering a door I had a relatively fleshed out post on another thread https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/w...g-door-219573/


For plugs on wooden doors I used a hole saw to cut out disks of one inch thick wood (whatever species the inside is made of, normally pine or fir) the sand them to fit at a one degree angle. They should not fall in but rather have about a third sticking out then be pressed in with glue.



Looks like you haven't glazed in your glass, got big plans for that mate?



-T
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post #11 of 14 Old 07-23-2020, 01:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by furnacefighter15 View Post
I would just replace or repair the jamb and use the hardware heights as is. Very hard to make a repair in the door at that location and not have it noticeable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not really, I did this for a living not longer than three months ago. I honestly can't tell you how many doors I've plugged due to machine runners not paying attention to where they're poking holes or routing out hinges. Some times it literally be feet off from where it was supposed to be, just leaving that would make for a very uncomfortable to use door knob. The best way to fix it is to glue a full length piece of veneer after stripping off the old veneer. Simply putting a patch in is also doable mainly depending of grain. Woods like alder are a lot easier as the grain in almost always similar.



-T
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-23-2020, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Can't figure out what you actually would like to do.
I would stick with Oak, rather than mix in Pine, no matter where you are talking about. Round Oak dowels are available from online sources IF you want to plug those holes ...? Holes are drilled at the wrong height? For what .... dowels or hinges ..?
Cutting an 1/8" strip is easy on your table saw. You don't need a thickness planer AND it's too thin for that regardless!


Looks like the door is sitting on the top of a chest freezer?




Yes, to plug the lock set and deadbolt holes. Probably could cut plugs with a hole saw and sand till I got a reasonable fit. They are 2-1/8 and I havent found any oak plus or dowel close to that size Somehow they drilled em 3 low.
Haha, no, its in storage behind the freezer in my garage! Have to haul the heavy hinge out to my shop when I eat ready...

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-23-2020, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Smith_inFL View Post
a photo of the hardware that you will be installing may
shed some more light on other possible options.
and in your photos so far, they are way too close and we
can't really decypher the overall project.
will the door be stained, clear coated or painted ??

here are some instructions from the Administrator on how to
post photos in this forum:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f33/...r-posts-63933/

.

Thanks, I will take pictures of every step when I start the project. Thanks for the link on posting pictures.

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post #14 of 14 Old 07-23-2020, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeebyWoodWorker View Post
Not really, I did this for a living not longer than three months ago. I honestly can't tell you how many doors I've plugged due to machine runners not paying attention to where they're poking holes or routing out hinges. Some times it literally be feet off from where it was supposed to be, just leaving that would make for a very uncomfortable to use door knob. The best way to fix it is to glue a full length piece of veneer after stripping off the old veneer. Simply putting a patch in is also doable mainly depending of grain. Woods like alder are a lot easier as the grain in almost always similar.



-T
I am actually changing the swing, so when I re-drill it will look like it should. That will put the Patch on the hinge side which is covered by storm door on the outside and in the dark corner inside, so wont show quite as bad. And if I dont like the look, I an try stain or paint.
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