Router radius question - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 2Likes
  • 1 Post By woodnthings
  • 1 Post By woodnthings
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 04:42 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Roybrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 232
View Roybrew's Photo Album My Photos
Router radius question

I am making a new seat for my canoe, and while attempting to make a simple jig for my router to follow I have a problem. I am trying to cut a 1/4 inch groove for my seat cane mat. The side distances are great but when I start around the corner I fall way short

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Roybrew is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 06:17 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 11,589
View GeorgeC's Photo Album My Photos
Are you using a template? If so it must not be correct in the corners.

George
GeorgeC is offline  
post #3 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 06:35 AM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,270
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Use a female template, not the male

If you are using a guide bushing and the "male" template, the corner radii will not work out. I would use a female template cut to the exact opening and a flush trim bit which will duplicate the opening exactly.

https://youtu.be/rIbj1jBYbVw?t=236
TimeTurnsElastic likes this.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-24-2017 at 06:46 AM.
woodnthings is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 07:30 AM
Moderator
 
Steve Neul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,738
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
The only thing I might add to using a template which is not shown is the template guide attachment for the router. You just have to measure how far back from the edge of the guide to the router bit to determine the size of the template. If the outside edge dimension of the seat isn't critical it would be easier to run the groove first and then scribe back the outside edge from the groove. http://www.rockler.com/guide-bushing...iABEgKfafD_BwE
Steve Neul is online now  
post #5 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Roybrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 232
View Roybrew's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks for advice. I was trying to use a male guide set back half the diameter of my router base. In the pictures I had the edge of my divider against the template. I would've figured since I had same radius on template it would work?. Uhn I need to practice my algebra and learn how to use a router, with the correct bits to. I ended up free handing it around corners. Wood working uses a lot of math, I used to be good at math. If I ever finish this thing I'll post it on here, as long as it doesn't look like [email protected]!#. Thanks y'all I'm learning.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Roybrew is offline  
post #6 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 05:34 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,270
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
there is less "math" than you think....

No algebra or geometry in this case. Imagine concentric circles where the small one is your template and the large one is the guide bushing traveling around the outside of the small one. It will create a larger radius.



If you use the female template, you make the template's radius the size that you want it to be when finished. You then use a "flush trim bit" which has a bearing on the top that is the same size/diameter as the cutter. When you follow/trace the template with the bearing it will cut the same radius below.
FrankC likes this.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-24-2017 at 05:58 PM.
woodnthings is offline  
post #7 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Roybrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 232
View Roybrew's Photo Album My Photos
Well thanks again, but I'll have to get back to this project at a later date. I done screwed this up from the beginning I wasn't thinking about the weakness of a cool looking knot in the wood..... this canoe seat frame bit the dust when i thought id better test it, and my rear end hit the floor. Hey I'm learning. No knots next time.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Roybrew is offline  
post #8 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Roybrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 232
View Roybrew's Photo Album My Photos
I'm so glad y'all don't know who I am. Better not quit my factory job huh?.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Roybrew is offline  
post #9 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 09:50 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,487
View Quickstep's Photo Album My Photos
I can't tell what kind of wood that is, but I think even without the knot it might not be an ideal choice for a canoe seat. I think you'll want ash or oak.
Quickstep is offline  
post #10 of 18 Old 08-24-2017, 09:57 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,487
View Quickstep's Photo Album My Photos
Here's a bit that will do what you want. You can make a template that precisely follows the path of your caning slot and then let the bearing in this bit guide the bit right up against the template. I just bought one of these bits. I haven't tried it yet, but I understand you need to go slowly to avoid breaking the bit.

I think the bravest thing you're taking on is the caning. That looks like challenging tedious work.
Quickstep is offline  
post #11 of 18 Old 08-25-2017, 03:53 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Roybrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 232
View Roybrew's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks Quickstep, It is ash. Been standing dead for a year, and it is a little spalted. I believe that is correct because of the black lines in the wood. Split from this log it naturally bowed when I split it out. I thought the natural bow would be great to work with, but it complicated every thing else. I am going to get proper router bits, and try again in couple of weeks.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Roybrew is offline  
post #12 of 18 Old 12-25-2017, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Roybrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 232
View Roybrew's Photo Album My Photos
Well, been more than a couple of weeks but I didn't want to give up on my ash canoe seat. Cut the mortise and tenon joints, glued and rough sanded. I decided to weave the cane seat instead of buying a pre-woven piece. Of course I'm using plastic cane because the real cane would sag when wet. So since I am weaving the cane, I need holes drilled every 3/4 inches. Ploted, prepunched and drilled holes. Finish sanded and rubbed on a natural stain.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Roybrew is offline  
post #13 of 18 Old 12-25-2017, 09:13 AM
Moderator
 
Steve Neul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 25,738
View Steve Neul's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roybrew View Post
Well, been more than a couple of weeks but I didn't want to give up on my ash canoe seat. Cut the mortise and tenon joints, glued and rough sanded. I decided to weave the cane seat instead of buying a pre-woven piece. Of course I'm using plastic cane because the real cane would sag when wet. So since I am weaving the cane, I need holes drilled every 3/4 inches. Ploted, prepunched and drilled holes. Finish sanded and rubbed on a natural stain.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Have a good time. :smile3: Hand weaving cane is one the most miserable jobs I've ever done. Then I managed to get the cane a little too tight and when I got about 95% done had to cut it all out and start over.
Steve Neul is online now  
post #14 of 18 Old 12-25-2017, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Roybrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 232
View Roybrew's Photo Album My Photos
Thanks. I'm a sucker for punishment

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Roybrew is offline  
post #15 of 18 Old 02-09-2018, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Roybrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 232
View Roybrew's Photo Album My Photos
Got my artificial cane, plastic, and weaved the seat while watching TV with my wife. I know she wonders about me sometimes. When I was deciding how to put it in I thought I would go ahead and replace the plastic gunwale trim with wood. Trying to work a strip of wood around the bow and bend of a gunwale proved a little challenging. I could've used steamed ash or cedar, but I like a challenge ha. Didn't take long for me to realize that wood with knots in it is a bad thing. After some defeat I got some clear looking lumber, Appearance Grade, it is exterior lumber that has been treated. Being a little damp it worked well. I will be putting a cap piece over the top of the strips.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Roybrew is offline  
post #16 of 18 Old 02-09-2018, 10:35 AM
Junior
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 142
View andr0id's Photo Album My Photos
Your caned seat looks great.

I have several chairs in my garage to be caned. Interested?
andr0id is offline  
post #17 of 18 Old 02-09-2018, 11:25 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Garland, TX
Posts: 4,232
View Toolman50's Photo Album My Photos
You do good work and the cane looks great but your choice of Woods...

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
Toolman50 is offline  
post #18 of 18 Old 02-09-2018, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Roybrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 232
View Roybrew's Photo Album My Photos
Umm no thanks andrOid. I am going to make a set out of cherry for my tandem canoe.

Yeh, the choice of wood wasn't great for the gunwale, but it was inexpensive and beats the old plastic trim. Hoping to start building a canoe this year out of popular and cherry. Popular is light and I can get it and cherry from local sawmills here. The cedar most use for canoes is expensive and would have to be ordered, about a grand for the cedar.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Roybrew is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question about adding a router table to my Delta 36-725 clathey General Woodworking Discussion 2 07-06-2017 09:58 PM
Features of an Awesome Shop Router WoodworkingTalk Featured Topics 2 02-10-2017 05:14 PM
The Right Router Bit Can be Essential WoodworkingTalk Featured Topics 0 09-13-2016 03:11 PM
1st time Router user - question please new2woodwrk Power Tools & Machinery 11 04-22-2016 01:16 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome