I am making a few cabinet doors for my shop storage I am using 3/4 ply I used a 1/2 roundover bit however am not happy with the look. My router will only take a 1/4 shank , is the 1/2" the biggest bit I can get for my router ? or do I have to get a router with a 1/2 shank that is even if they make a bigger rounder bit sorry for the stupid question just need help.
Bruce, you're using a roundover bit on plywood? I don't think you will ever be happy with it unless you glue a solid wood edging around the ply, then roundover the solid wood.
A 1/4" shank 1/2" roundover will work just fine... you can even get a 3/4" roundover with a 1/4" shank that should work pretty good.
Of course, a 1/2" shank will give you better performance on the larger diameter bits... but, I think you can do it with a 1/4" shank bit.
Bruce, you're using a roundover bit on plywood? I don't think you will ever be happy with it unless you glue a solid wood edging around the ply, then roundover the solid wood.
A 1/4" shank 1/2" roundover will work just fine... you can even get a 3/4" roundover with a 1/4" shank that should work pretty good.
Of course, a 1/2" shank will give you better performance on the larger diameter bits... but, I think you can do it with a 1/4" shank bit.
I doubt that you will find a roundover bit with a bearing that is larger than 1/2" that would have a 1/4" shank. If you do, I wouldn't recommend using it. That's a lot of twisting steel and carbide.
With a 1/2" bit you will have about 1/4" or less of flat left under the profile. You may need that to have the bearing something to run on. If you choose to use a 3/4" bit, there will be no flat. The radius will taper right to a feathered edge on a full 3/4" piece. If you do want that look, clamp a straight edge under the stock (for hand routing) to give the bearing a guiding edge.
I doubt that you will find a roundover bit with a bearing that is larger than 1/2" that would have a 1/4" shank. If you do, I wouldn't recommend using it. That's a lot of twisting steel and carbide.
With a 1/2" bit you will have about 1/4" or less of flat left under the profile. You may need that to have the bearing something to run on. If you choose to use a 3/4" bit, there will be no flat. The radius will taper right to a feathered edge on a full 3/4" piece. If you do want that look, clamp a straight edge under the stock (for hand routing) to give the bearing a guiding edge.
As you get into using your router, you will discover why 1/2 inch shank bits came along. They are of course, less prone to flex under pressure, and produce a better finish....since they don't tend to "vibrate" at the super high speeds of a router, where a 1/4 inch shank bit can leave the slightest "chatter" marks on a piece. This can be caused by other things, especially technique, but the 1/2 shank bits help.
As you get into using your router, you will discover why 1/2 inch shank bits came along. They are of course, less prone to flex under pressure, and produce a better finish....since they don't tend to "vibrate" at the super high speeds of a router, where a 1/4 inch shank bit can leave the slightest "chatter" marks on a piece. This can be caused by other things, especially technique, but the 1/2 shank bits help.
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