[quote=Kenbo;59534]It may sound like I am saying something that doesn't need to be said but make sure that you allow for the offset between your saw's baseplate and the blade. Forgetting this offset will result in a lot of cursing.
The beauty of the jig he is looking at is that the edge of the jig is the cut line. So long as he uses the same blade thickness consistently.
I like the jig. If you use 1/2" ply for the deck of the gig and 1/4" ply for the fence you will be able to use the jig on material that is about 1 1/2" - 1 3/4" thick depending on how close your motor is to the work surface when you are at full depth. That is if you are using a side winder saw. Worm drive is not an issue and you could get pretty close to 1 3/4". All good if you find yourself ripping the edge off a door or cleaning up a wood top.
Make one for ripping and a shorter one for cross cutting.
Make the jig wide enough so your clamps can be clear of the saw when they can be. Again the type of saw plays a part.
When using a side winder at near full depth, your clamps can be a hassle at the start and the finish.
The blade is a good choice. You shouldn't notice much tear out on the cross cuts as the jig helps break the chips at the cut line. If you notice some on a practice cut, try lightly scribing the cut line with a razor knife after you clamp the jig. Just enough to break the face, don't get aggressive with the knife. Try again and see. Play with it a little and you will find the right combo.
Try to keep the show side of the ply facing down. That side will probably always look good enough.
Bury as many cuts into a dado and there is no worries at all with a bit of tear out.
And get yourself a good table saw with an outfeed table as soon as you can