Removing Paint off of a Front Door - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 06-18-2019, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Removing Paint off of a Front Door

Hi all,

I am a bit of a novice in wood working and would like some advice in stripping paint off of a door. I am attempting to remove paint off of the exterior side of a front door and refinish it with some light sanding, minwax stain, and poly urethane. I am using "KWIK-STRIP" Paint stripper that I purchased from Lowes and have been following the directions written on the back of the can. I've done their process 4 times and there still is a fair amount of paint in the wood (all though there are spots where all of the paint has been completely lifted out of the wood). I'm just wondering if this is normal and it just takes a lot of time and effort in removing the paint... any advice would be great.

Also in case anyone wonders, the Door Handle hasn't been removed because the set screws are stripped (the door came from Habitat for Humanity), I'm also trying trying to figure out how to remove the hardware.
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post #2 of 11 Old 06-18-2019, 10:21 AM
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You will probably have to sand that last bit out and it may not be worthwhile if the door were made from a very common grade of wood. Repainting may be a better option.

As for removing the door hardware, a local painter tells me that he never removes the locksets anymore. Very often there are broken components inside that are not replaceable. If the lock set works, then masking is probably a better option. The lockset looks quite old and I doubt you can find replacement parts.
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post #3 of 11 Old 06-18-2019, 12:13 PM
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dark paint, black especially, soaks deep into the grain.
you may never get all of it off to satisfy your vision.
you need to have a "Plan B" to fall back on to either
use a solid dark stain or paint of your choice.
great looking door you have there - take your time with it.

.

.

-- Failure is proof that you at least tried ~ now, go do it again, and again, until you get it right --
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post #4 of 11 Old 06-18-2019, 09:10 PM
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Stripping paint is difficult in the best of circumstances. Then when it was available the paint stripper for retail sale was pretty weak. Now the government has banned the methylene chloride that made it feasible. It might be necessary to strip it a dozen times if you can't find some methylene chloride remover still on the store shelves.

Now from where you are since you have been sanding on it you will have to get all the black blotchy spots either stripped or sanded. Any of that you leave will be there when you stain. If you are going to try to sand the rest off wet the wood with water and allow it to dry. This will make what sanding you do more effective. You could do this each time you change sandpaper.

The worst of it is I have some professional grade remover that would have stripped the door cleaner than what you have it sanded now.
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post #5 of 11 Old 06-19-2019, 03:59 AM
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Sanding or just repaint it if you can't get rest of?
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post #6 of 11 Old 06-19-2019, 05:52 AM
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Forget about stain ......

Stain will never work over partially removed paint. Plan "B" is repaint it, but use these scrapers to smooth the curved areas around the trim:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRL-Hyde-...RoC08gQAvD_BwE


https://www.google.com/search?q=curv...#imgrc=_&vet=1

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 11 Old 06-19-2019, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Hi all,

Thanks for the advice, for now I'm going to attempt to keep stripping the door using the KwikStrip (gonna finish the can) and sanding. This is with the mindset that I will mostly likely end up painting it... But I'll post another picture when I ~hopefully~ have gotten most of the paint off. I think that the door is made of Fir (which i've heard isn't the best for staining) so maybe doing this for nothing but hopefully someone else can ID it when there's more to see

-thanks
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post #8 of 11 Old 06-19-2019, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prestonwalker26 View Post
Hi all,

Thanks for the advice, for now I'm going to attempt to keep stripping the door using the KwikStrip (gonna finish the can) and sanding. This is with the mindset that I will mostly likely end up painting it... But I'll post another picture when I ~hopefully~ have gotten most of the paint off. I think that the door is made of Fir (which i've heard isn't the best for staining) so maybe doing this for nothing but hopefully someone else can ID it when there's more to see

-thanks
Let the stripper sit and soak for about a half an hour re-applying stripper to spots that dry out. Then use coarse steel wool and a brass brush to get the stubborn spots. Then when you rinse it off if you have access to a power washer that would help a lot. You just need to adjust the pressure down to about 1200 psi to prevent damaging the wood. The power washer is what professional refinishers use to rinse furniture they strip. It will do as much as the stripper for removing the paint.
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post #9 of 11 Old 06-24-2019, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Preparing the door to stain

Hi all,

The advice worked great, the door is coming along pretty well (minus the tougher spots in the smaller frame pieces). Once I have gotten all the paint off of the small trim pieces, how many times should I scrub the wood with the afterwash/mineral spirits prior to staining?

~Thanks
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post #10 of 11 Old 06-24-2019, 10:19 AM
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Rinsing the stripper off is best done while the stripper is wet. Don't use mineral spirits like the directions say, that is way too mild. Use lacquer thinner. It's very important to remove all of the remover because paint strippers contain a wax which helps the chemical not evaporate too fast. This wax can reek havoc with the new finish you apply. After the wood is stripped it will need to be sanded before any thoughts are given to stain.

Some of the wood if not all of it is douglas fir, a wood prone to go blotchy when stained. On these woods a wood conditioner should be used prior to using stain. The wood had hard and soft places in it which when stained the soft places absorb more of the stain going darker. To make the wood stain more uniform in color a thin sealer (wood conditioner) is applied and the soft places absorb more of the sealer so the surface is more uniform in density. That way the stain goes on more uniform in color. This is something you need to test. Sometimes the conditioner needs to dry longer or be thinned. Until you try it on the wood you are using you just don't know. Douglas fir is close enough to the balsam fir 2x4's the box stores sell. You could use any of the white wood for testing purposes. Since your door is older it might go slightly darker but shouldn't be dramatic.
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post #11 of 11 Old 06-24-2019, 03:35 PM
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When I stripped the paint off of my garage door (65 years worth) the instructions said to use TSP detergent. It worked well. I had to sand down after to eliminate the raised grain, but the residue of the stripper was gone.

TSP is getting hard to find. Only the synthetic (TSP Substitute) is available at the local stores. You can still find it on line:


https://www.amazon.com/Savogran-1062...38065324&psc=1
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