To remove or not. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 08-08-2019, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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To remove or not.

Good day all,

I’ve been working on my second river table and spent a lot of time making sure I get this piece of pear wood as flat as I can and must say I’m very happy with the result although I’ve lost about 11mm at its thickest point.

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Away at work for two weeks at the moment so I can only think it will be beneficial to leave the wood to rest after cutting into it so deeply. Is two weeks long enough or should I hold back longer before continuing?

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I’m sorry if my terminology is incorrect, I only do this to switch off.

Unfortunately while planning it flat with a router it has opened up a bit of ugly looking bark (hollow when tapped) near a knot. I’m afraid if I left it in I’ll struggle to get a decent finish on it. Is this true? Baring in mind I’ll be using epoxy to fill anyway.

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Also worried if I try and take it out it will be different to leave a natural look, if best to try and remove any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Happy to have an epoxy pool in its place but need to be done wright.

Just for your info the pencil lines you can see is were I plan to split it.

Looking forward to hearing if anyone has advice or points.

Cheers and thank you

James
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post #2 of 5 Old 08-09-2019, 11:42 AM
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I would think a slow setting clear epoxy would soak deeply and stabilize the knots prior to the final finish. I have done this on smaller projects with great results to preserve the natural look of the wood. Using clear will keep the natural look of the knot and the cracks by filling them in.

Gary
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post #3 of 5 Old 08-09-2019, 04:44 PM
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I agree with Gary, seal the bottom and fill with epoxy, it would look pretty neat

There is no app for experience
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post #4 of 5 Old 08-09-2019, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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I’m starting to leaning towards that to.

Thank you

James
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post #5 of 5 Old 08-10-2019, 06:44 AM
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I’ve used MAS low viscosity epoxy with slow hardener in similar situations with good success. Regular epoxy tends to be too thick the penetrate well. Warming the epoxy will thin it even further. Warming the wood to keep the epoxy from cooling off to quickly also helps the epoxy get in. Don’t overdo it because the heat also makes the epoxy cute faster.

As the epoxy fills the voids in the wood, it will displace the air in this voids causing bubbles. Once the epoxy is on, go over it with a torch or heat gun to draw the bubbles to the surface to pop so they don’t show up as pick marks when you sand it level.
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