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Raised Panel Construction Question

1K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  MT Stringer 
#1 ·
The last couple of projects requiring raised panel doors, I milled 4/4 rough poplar to a thickness of about 5/8 inch then made the raised panels using the router.

What do you think? Is it worth the time and cost to resaw 6/4 rough stock and plane/sand to end up with two pieces of 1/2 inch stock. Some doors will require a glued up panel...maybe 13 inches wide.

Just trying to be cost effective and not waste material from milling 4/4 rough material.

I will know more tomorrow. I sent a request to the lumber yard to see if they carry 6/4 poplar and get a quote.

Might be time to get that new 1/2 inch 3-4T blade on the band saw.

Your thoughts appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
 
#2 ·
If it was teak I would probably say yes resaw it but poplar is normally cheaper than dirt. I don't think it's worth the trouble. Even as a hobby your time is worth a lot. Personally I think the panels look better thicker. The term raised panel used to mean the surface of the panel was raised above the frame. When a lot of shops started using a timesaver sander to sand cabinet doors the panels became flush with the frame but the name hasn't changed. I still make the panels raised in my shop so I make the panels 11/16" thick to do it.
 
#4 ·
Most of the raised panel bits used in conjunction with R&S bits are designed for ¾" stock. Starting with a thinner panel may not give the same visual appeal of the shorter profile. By the time the edge of the panel gets inserted in the groove, the reveal between the profile of the panel and the profile of the R&S is less.






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#5 ·
Using 5/8" stock the back side of the panel would not be flush with the rails and stiles. I make mine 3/4" so both the front and back of the panel are flush to the rails and stiles. Using 5/8" material is somewhat easier as you do not need a back cutter on your panel raising bit. It is all a matter of what you prefer.

George
 
#6 ·
The use of poplar leads me to believe these are paint grade cabinets. If that is the case I would use MDF for the panels.

If not I would not spend the time surfacing the wood unless it was for fun or a big project. I would have to be building a lot of doors to realize any savings over my labor cost to resaw, plane, joint, and cut to width my door stock.
 
#7 ·
Y'all bring up some good points. Thanks for the advice.

Paint grade cabinets, thirteen doors. no MDF (per client).

Milling 4/4 rough stock down to even 5/8 inch results in a lot of wasted shavings that go into the trash. I was just trying to come up with an alternative.

Thanks
Mike
 
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