Question about Finishing - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Question about Finishing

Hello All Names Jon.
Well I Just recently Built me and gaming / PC work desk out of Pine and 4x4 post i picked up @ Home Depot. Well my problem is the finishing I did a test piece and it looked terrible and blotchy so how would i solve for this? i am looking for and natural look nothing dark. Well i included 2 photo's one of test piece and one photo of table itself
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post #2 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 07:51 PM
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Try flooding your sample with Mineral Spirits just prior to staining.

Scott
OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #3 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 08:02 PM
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My method ...
Sand to a superfine finish (200 to 600 grit depending on the wood) in straight line with the grain. Orbital sanding leaves swirls, in my experience. Straight sanding with a block leaves no trace of the sand paper. Once you've got the wood as smooth as glass (or close) and cleaned of all dust, wipe the stain on with a rag and immediately wipe it off.
I don't let stain "soak in" anymore, since that always gave me the irregular blotchy look. Wipe on, wipe off ... wait a few minutes. If it's not dark enough, repeat.
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post #4 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 08:03 PM
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Pine is one of the types of wood prone to blotch. The easiest way to eliminate this is to use a wood conditioner. The problem is the wood has soft spots which absorb more stain. The wood conditioner is a sealer which the soft spots absorb more of so the stain goes on more uniform.
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post #5 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
. The wood conditioner is a sealer .
What is the sealing agent in this? http://www.minwax.com/document/MSDS/en/027426134072

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post #6 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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wow didnt know they made 600grit. now i do have 220grit i picked up
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post #7 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Last question which would be best? And oil base stain Minwax or General finish or Danish Oil ?
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post #8 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdntrdr View Post
What is the sealing agent in this? http://www.minwax.com/document/MSDS/en/027426134072
They aren't saying or it's in code where you have to be a chemist to tell. A lot of times on these products the ingredients are proprietary and the MSDS just tells what to do if it's ingested or there is a fire. Since it is flammable I suspect it probably has linseed oil in it. I use homemade conditioner which is a mixture of linseed oil and mineral spirits 50/50. Some conditioners are water based and those normally use a sealing agent related to wood glue.
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post #9 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggee216 View Post
wow didnt know they made 600grit. now i do have 220grit i picked up
If you are shopping at Home Depot look in the paint supply section. There you will find a variety of finer grit sandpaper.
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post #10 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggee216 View Post
Last question which would be best? And oil base stain Minwax or General finish or Danish Oil ?
Minwax stain is prone to fade over time so if that is an issue you might consider another stain. It otherwise stains easier and more uniform than most brands. General stain would be more colorfast. A Danish oil finish might contain tung oil depending on brand. It's considered a finish in itself and not intended to be topcoated. Depending on the project it's not very water resistant as a finish so wouldn't be suitable for table tops. I finished a grandfather clock with it in 1973 and it looks pretty much the same today as the day I finished it. Danish oil could be used as a stain buy you might need to allow it to dry a week to ten days before putting a finish over the top.
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post #11 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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wow ... ok this finishing process can be very confusing i see I am like lost lol . But I Don't need show quality just something nice and shiny because this for and gaming / PC work station in my livingroom and yes i shop at home depot and been to my local woodcraft store twice brought some router bits their . Well i was figuring on using Sealcoat az wood sealer then use danish oil as stain and a poly but i guess i am wrong right ?
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-10-2016, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by biggee216 View Post
wow ... ok this finishing process can be very confusing i see I am like lost lol . But I Don't need show quality just something nice and shiny because this for and gaming / PC work station in my livingroom and yes i shop at home depot and been to my local woodcraft store twice brought some router bits their . Well i was figuring on using Sealcoat az wood sealer then use danish oil as stain and a poly but i guess i am wrong right ?
You could thin Sealcoat a great deal and use it for a wood conditioner. Then stain it with a Danish oil. Then after you allow it to dry a week you could apply a polyurethane finish. If you don't have the means of spraying you might use a wipe on polyurethane. Most folks have a difficult time applying a polyurethane finish without the brush marks.

If you use Sealcoat as a wood conditioner be sure to try it on scraps first. You should expect to have to use a darker stain when using a wood conditioner to get the desired color.

You can't put Danish oil over a full coat of Sealcoat. Sealcoat is a shellac finish that would completely seal the wood preventing the Danish oil from soaking into the wood.
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-11-2016, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Ok Steve Thank you. That was very helpful with the application process. And Yes I don't have the means to spray so i am a brush baby lol So with that been said after you stated minwax tends to fade then i will just go General Finish Arm A Seal Poly and the Sealcoat and Danish Oil or and GF Stain Thank YOu for clearing that up
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post #14 of 16 Old 07-17-2016, 11:27 AM
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Need Help

I have cypress wood that was used as a Vat for storing pickles from mid 1900's to the mid 1960's. It is over 200 yrs old and had a question in regards to the acid within the wood. After holding 10 of thousand of pickles over the years (which the wood still smells like pickles and have saved the sawdust vacuum sealed) was wondering was can I use to bring out the acidity in the wood?
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post #15 of 16 Old 07-17-2016, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAMA69 View Post
I have cypress wood that was used as a Vat for storing pickles from mid 1900's to the mid 1960's. It is over 200 yrs old and had a question in regards to the acid within the wood. After holding 10 of thousand of pickles over the years (which the wood still smells like pickles and have saved the sawdust vacuum sealed) was wondering was can I use to bring out the acidity in the wood?
If you thoroughly washed the wood I don't think there would be enough acid on the surface of the wood to give you any problems. When you finish it if you would coat the wood with sealcoat first it would provide a barrier coat for what ever finish you applied over the top.
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post #16 of 16 Old 07-18-2016, 10:44 AM
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Instead of staining, you might consider using a dye, like Transtint. I've always had trouble with blotching and uneven staining with softwoods, but now use only dyes. They give much more even tinting, and are very forgiving. Google "wood dye vs stain" for a lot of info.
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