Problem with glueups - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-26-2007, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Problem with glueups

When I do a project, I like to glue up everything I can clamp together and set it aside to dry.

My problem is that by the time I get glue spread on the last surfaces, the glue I put on at the beginning of the gluing process has sometimes begun to form a skin before I can get the peices put together for clamping. I use the common carpenter's glue available in most home centers and hardware stores.

Can this stuff be thinned so I can spread it faster and get the clamps on sooner? Anyone know of a glue where this is not a problem?
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-27-2007, 01:16 AM
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Problem with glueups

Try titebond 3 it has a longer set time.

Lilty
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post #3 of 13 Old 12-27-2007, 09:35 AM
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I'm new to woodworking so I've been reading labels on glue for about a month trying to find one with a longer setup time for the same reason. Instead of finding longer setup times I keep finding shorter. It's funny I bought titebond 1 and 2 but not 3. Thanks for the info.
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-27-2007, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Lilty,

I'll give Titebond 3 a try.
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post #5 of 13 Old 12-27-2007, 02:13 PM
 
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You can use Plastic Resin glue.Urea Formeldahide.They have a MUCH longer working time.
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-27-2007, 03:18 PM
 
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Glue ups are SUPPOSED to be a panic!!!! Didn't you read the woodworkers rule book???
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post #7 of 13 Old 12-27-2007, 06:29 PM
 
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Jon is absolutely correct. Plastic resin glue (DAP Weldwood) has a lot longer working time than the others, and it's a GREAT glue for your woodworking. Not too many of us use it anymore, though. It's got a shelf life of about a year, it's not very easy to find sometimes, and your project should be clamped up for a longer period of time than the Titebonds. Those seem to be minor setbacks for such a quality glue.
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-28-2007, 03:17 AM
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I've had this same problem when gluing my furniture arms. I stopped using Tightbond ll. Instead,I used some old wood glue I had. I then applied a very liberal amount of glue and positioned the two wooden surfaces and clamped them. Using a liberal amount of glue means you have to wipe up the excess glue with lacquer thinner so as not to cause the glue to act as a sealer and thereby preventing an even staining.
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-31-2007, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you all. I now realize I need an array of glue types; each one suited to a different application. Thanks again.
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-31-2007, 05:37 PM
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Do any of you ever flip the glue bottle in the air like Tom Cruise in the movie Cocktail when you're in the middle of a fast paced glue up?..........Yeah, me neither.

Ken

"What we hope ever to do with ease, we must first learn to do with diligence".
- Samuel Johnson
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post #11 of 13 Old 12-31-2007, 11:53 PM
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Well, I think Corndog is the one who is absolutely correct.
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post #12 of 13 Old 01-02-2008, 09:56 PM
 
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There are some thing you just cant rush. If you are trying to glue to many pieces at once don't glue so many at once. TBIII is poly based. Why use this on wood when you don't need to?
If your gluing 5 boards together, do three and two separately then glue the two sections together later. Don't rush your work. It will bite you in the end.
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post #13 of 13 Old 01-02-2008, 10:04 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MinConst View Post
There are some thing you just cant rush. If you are trying to glue to many pieces at once don't glue so many at once. TBIII is poly based. Why use this on wood when you don't need to?
If your gluing 5 boards together, do three and two separately then glue the two sections together later. Don't rush your work. It will bite you in the end.
Words to live by...life is not a race! Why should your living or your hobby be one? There is nothing wrong with working with a sense of ugency but know the difference.
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