Prevent wood from pulling away from my tablesaw fence when ripping? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 27 Old 06-14-2012, 12:13 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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OK Now we're getting somewhere

You have "reaction wood" in that it moves when you saw into it because of internal stresses. It's tough to deal with but here's what I would do. Immediately after cutting far enough into the board stop the saw and insert a thin wedge to keep the kerf open.
Another approach would be to cut it a 1/8" extra wide, then trim off the the excess to your needed dimension.

I don't suppose you have a jointer based on your other thread, but that would be the best way to get straight edges. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #22 of 27 Old 06-14-2012, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
You have "reaction wood" in that it moves when you saw into it because of internal stresses. It's tough to deal with but here's what I would do. Immediately after cutting far enough into the board stop the saw and insert a thin wedge to keep the kerf open.
Another approach would be to cut it a 1/8" extra wide, then trim off the the excess to your needed dimension.

I don't suppose you have a jointer based on your other thread, but that would be the best way to get straight edges. bill
That's kind of what I was afraid of. Guess I'll have to check out that jointer. I was just hoping that there was something I was doing wrong or a jig I could use to fix it, but based on everything I've read in this thread, I've been doing it right. Thanks for the help.
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post #23 of 27 Old 06-14-2012, 10:37 PM
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You probably need to consider a ripping blade. But before you spend any money try making a feather board. It's pretty easy and it can make a big difference.
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post #24 of 27 Old 06-14-2012, 11:53 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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that won't help

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You probably need to consider a ripping blade. But before you spend any money try making a feather board. It's pretty easy and it can make a big difference.
Since a feather board can only be located in front of the blades teeth it won't assure the wood won't pull away at the rear. It's really the wood being relieved of it's internal stresses that's causing it to pull away. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #25 of 27 Old 06-15-2012, 05:52 AM
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I've been meaning to get a featherboard for a while, but haven't. I really don't know what I can do other than a featherboard or something like that; I have straight cuts when ripping plywood or cross-cutting the glue-up, but ripping the board lumber is getting me.
The problem may be just with the wood you are using. You said the plywood cuts straight. You might try a totally different type of solid wood. Some wood will "walk" when being ripped, which is just a characteristic caused by grain stresses and variations.

Adding to the problem, it's likely you may be unconsciously trying to rectify the passing of the wood by overcoming the movement while it's being cut. I would first try a piece of a different stock of wood before making any changes to the saw. Under some conditions, a riving knife or splitter can be a detriment in that the wood could get bound against the edge if it so moves that way.

Wood with a straight edge used against the fence should be the best start for a good cut.





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post #26 of 27 Old 06-15-2012, 06:40 AM
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Yes my experience backs up the words of cabinetman

I was working with a piece of 4 x 4 some years ago. A mate need a profile close to 2 x 2, so decided to rip this beautiful straight piece into 4. 1/2 way thru the 1st cut the timber was binding on the blade so tight I could hardly push the saw thru anymore. I had now wrecked a perfectly good piece of timber, there was no way I was gonna stop now. I cut it in 4, profiled it and nailed it up at my mates house. The pieces were so warped they were almost impossible to use, but we did.

Yes machining timber can cause it to warp

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post #27 of 27 Old 06-15-2012, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Since a feather board can only be located in front of the blades teeth it won't assure the wood won't pull away at the rear. It's really the wood being relieved of it's internal stresses that's causing it to pull away. bill
It will not effect the cut if it pulls away at the rear as long as this motion does not change the front relationship or cause binding. I will sometimes even set the fence a hair farther from the blade at the rear.

George
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