power planer on cupped walnut slab? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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power planer on cupped walnut slab?

this recommended to me by the supplier i bought it from.

what kind of risks are there getting the highspot out?
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post #2 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 01:36 PM
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How large is the slab? And what do you intend on using it for?

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #3 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 01:42 PM
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If the grain is all running in the same direction, and you have a method to hold the board, like WoodNThings planer sled, it should work.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/pl...d-rails-14940/

I have done this before with some boards. I used very light passes to minimize the downward force of the rollers/head with each pass.

Has the slab been given enough time to reach moisture equilibrium with your shop? If not, I would wait since you cannot tell if the cupping will change.
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post #4 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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I picked the slab up from a place about 1/2 hour away so moisture shouldnt be too much of an issue - but, I want to flatten it and get it secured to check any additional movement.

Right now, I am flattening it with a belt sander and its taking forever.

A guy at the mill recommended using a hand held power planer but somehow I think that'll do a bunch of damage to the figure sections.

The slab is 31" max width x 54" long x 1 1/2" +/- thick.
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post #5 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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I'm working in small sections, creating a ledge and I'll be moving on beyond the ledge when that portion is flat.

I'm using 120 grit on my belt sander and I think I'm going to switch to 80.
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 02:14 PM
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You need a router sled....there's a thread on here somewhere about building one.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 02:17 PM
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I go at an angle with a hand plane or scrub plane to flatten out a piece that is too wide for my jointer. Works pretty good and is faster then belt sander. -Nice slab...

"There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as if everything is." Albert Einstein
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post #8 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 02:23 PM
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depends on dead flat you want it. i would switch to 60 grit on belt than work up through. a router sled will make it flatter than hand sanding.
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post #9 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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i thought about the router sled but I don't have the space and no real flat surface to put it on that is large enough to accommodate this piece.
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post #10 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 03:21 PM
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Then your stuck with hand planes and sanders..... And lots of time

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #11 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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yeah, I've kind of resigned myself to that reality.
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post #12 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gideon View Post
I'm working in small sections, creating a ledge and I'll be moving on beyond the ledge when that portion is flat.

I'm using 120 grit on my belt sander and I think I'm going to switch to 80.
Nice looking slab. If you get tired and want to drive up to the Lehigh Valley, I can run it through my drum sander for you.
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post #13 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going at it with my 7 and cleaning/touching up with a 5. I might take you up on your offer... Very generous of you, seriously.

I am anticipating tear out with the figured areas.
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post #14 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 08:30 PM
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Router sled is the way to go.
It's easy to do and you can use it for them big slabs. I'd do it in my driveway if I didn't have space in garage.
Go for it.

When it's rustic......it's rustic
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post #15 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 09:12 PM
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I used a hand held power planer on the figured walnut slab I did recently and it didn't adversely affect the figured portions. Take light cuts. I finished it with a card scraper and that really brought the figure back.

Sweet slab man
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post #16 of 17 Old 08-01-2013, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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using my 7, the length of the front really finds the areas needing planed well.

I've never used a power planer. What should I do? What mistakes? How to avoid them? Do I go cross grain like I've been doing?
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post #17 of 17 Old 08-02-2013, 12:19 AM
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I used a trusted straight edge to check the surface as I went.
I hadn't yet begun my foray into hand planes at that point. If I had, I'd probably have planed close to finished with the power planer (with a bit of a skew to keep from tearing out the grain), then jointed flat with a No 7.
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