Is plywood OK? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-16-2010, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Is plywood OK?

I'm in the middle of performing a face lift for my kitchen, and in the process my wife and I (my wife) decided to tear out the old built-in glass door display cupboard, a drawer, and another set of cupboards in favor of one larger pantry. I'm just going to use some closet type bracket shelving on the interior, but I'm going to have to build the doors. Here's what I've drawn up:

Name:  Pantry.jpg
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My question is, for the rails and styles, is plywood ok? I'm planning on putting a 1/2" tongue and groove on all of them, and the final product will be painted, not stained.

The only time you'll ever see the edge is when the door is open, and again, it will be painted. My initial thought is that this is probably fine, but I'm wondering about solid stock vs. plywood.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Rich
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post #2 of 15 Old 02-16-2010, 12:28 PM
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Solid stock..... the plywood will move way more than solid stock would when ripped that narrow and more than likely won't stay flat.

You could use MDF but they'd be pretty heavy and prone to wanting to bend too. I'd use atleast 3 if not 4 hinges for that height.
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post #3 of 15 Old 02-16-2010, 12:45 PM
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I would use solid poplar for the rails and stiles. It will be much more stable. You will never be happy with the edges of plywood done that way even if painted. As a side note, I would use shelf pins for your shelves instead of the brackets. They are better looking, adjustable, cheaper, and give you more room in the pantry. Just rip a piece of hardwood peg board and use the holes as your template for each side of the cabinet for perfect alignment.

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post #4 of 15 Old 02-16-2010, 12:52 PM
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I agree with the poplar. You won't be happy with the painted plywood edges. Poplar is pretty cheap also per board foot.

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post #5 of 15 Old 02-16-2010, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
My question is, for the rails and styles, is plywood ok?
no...not on doors, especially that tall. I've used plywood before for fronts and lumber core on occassion but that door will warp with plywood.
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post #6 of 15 Old 02-16-2010, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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I was pretty sure this is the response I would get. I guess I just needed to hear it. I'll use the solid stock. Much less ripping on the TS, too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndersonsWoodworks View Post
As a side note, I would use shelf pins for your shelves instead of the brackets. They are better looking, adjustable, cheaper, and give you more room in the pantry. Just rip a piece of hardwood peg board and use the holes as your template for each side of the cabinet for perfect alignment.
Are you talking about something like this?

Name:  shelf pin.jpg
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The problem with this is that I'm not planning on building an actual cabinet. The void in the wall that I'm working with is plaster. I suppose I could attach a piece of ply to the side walls, but I wonder if sagging might be an issue over time?
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post #7 of 15 Old 02-16-2010, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDR View Post
Are you talking about something like this?

Attachment 13527

The problem with this is that I'm not planning on building an actual cabinet. The void in the wall that I'm working with is plaster. I suppose I could attach a piece of ply to the side walls, but I wonder if sagging might be an issue over time?
I think your original design with the shelf holders is the best bet. A pantry shelf will be required to hold a hell of a lot of weight at times.
Just make sure the shelf bracket holders are secured well into the studs.

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Retired woodworker, amongst other things, Sold full time cruising boat and now full time cruising in RV. Currently in Somerville, Tx
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post #8 of 15 Old 02-16-2010, 05:29 PM
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I agree with solid wood for the rails and stiles.

If you want adjustable then use your original design.

I would put a 1x2 cleat on both sides and across the back use 3/4" plywood for the shelves and you could add a decorative solid wood strip on the front of the shelf about 1" - 1 1/4" for added support. the shelves would be permanently positioned, strong and a cleaner look without the shelf brackets of adjustable shelves getting in the way.

Last edited by rrbrown; 02-16-2010 at 05:31 PM.
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post #9 of 15 Old 02-16-2010, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rrbrown View Post
I would put a 1x2 cleat on both sides and across the back use 3/4" plywood for the shelves and you could add a decorative solid wood strip on the front of the shelf about 1" - 1 1/4" for added support. the shelves would be permanently positioned, strong and a cleaner look without the shelf brackets of adjustable shelves getting in the way.
I've considered this, too. If we come up with a spacing arrangement that we both agree is functional, this is probably what I'll do. It will be considerable cheaper, I'm sure.
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post #10 of 15 Old 02-23-2010, 08:56 AM
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We have 3/8" plywood for our soffits. The house is 12 years old and there has been no problem.
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post #11 of 15 Old 02-23-2010, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Leola Kris View Post
We have 3/8" plywood for our soffits. The house is 12 years old and there has been no problem.
Soffits on a house are a completely different application then shelves. Soffit panels are fastened to the fascia, lookouts and a stringer along the house. Soffits do not support weight as a shelf would be required to do. Although 3/4" is the proper thickness for shelves, some smaller less weight bearing shelves could possibly be made of 1/2" while larger shelves may need a 1"- 1 1/2" hardwood cap to help support them. In this application both 1/2" and definitely 3/8" are to small, 3/4" will work but adding a hardwood cap will add strength and aesthetics is desired.
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post #12 of 15 Old 02-23-2010, 05:05 PM
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Are you using MDF panels or plywood panels? Just curious... Poplar, as recommended, looks like it would do the job nicely for the frame.

Pine, although a soft wood, would be cheaper and work too... wouldn't it?
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post #13 of 15 Old 02-23-2010, 09:46 PM
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I just got back from building supply, popler was only 10 cents cheaper than oak per bf.
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post #14 of 15 Old 02-23-2010, 10:17 PM
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This is a spammer post

Quote Above:
We have 3/8" plywood for our soffits. The house is 12 years old and there has been no problem.


Richard, this was a spammer post.
The links were removed after it was reported. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #15 of 15 Old 02-23-2010, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Quote Above:
We have 3/8" plywood for our soffits. The house is 12 years old and there has been no problem.


Richard, this was a spammer post.
The links were removed after it was reported. bill
Well I guess they got me.

Thanks Bill
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