Plunge Routing with a raised panel bit. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-16-2012, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Plunge Routing with a raised panel bit.

Safe or stupid? I'm looking for a way to taper or ease the underside of a table top... Say from 1" down to 5/8" starting about 3" in. I'm no good with hand planes and too big to run over the table saw or router table, my only thought was to use one of my panel bits and slowly plunge it to thickness. But right on the package states for table use only. What to do.?
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post #2 of 14 Old 08-16-2012, 04:36 PM
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I dont think thats very safe.....Dont do it...
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post #3 of 14 Old 08-16-2012, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNYWOODS View Post
Safe or stupid? I'm looking for a way to taper or ease the underside of a table top... Say from 1" down to 5/8" starting about 3" in. I'm no good with hand planes and too big to run over the table saw or router table, my only thought was to use one of my panel bits and slowly plunge it to thickness. But right on the package states for table use only. What to do.?
If your panel bit has a bearing good luck plunging it. Not that I'd recommend trying in the first place. Can you build a frame that you could go the width of the table with a router?

John

If I strive for perfection, I can generally achieve good'nuff, If I strive for good'nuff, I generally achieve firewood
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-16-2012, 04:48 PM
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Do you have a bit large enough to cut 3''? Unless you have experience with routing with large bits,climb cutting,kick back and other calamities with free hand routing,look for another way. Most important consideration while setting up power tool operations is,if you are not comfortable,just don't do it. Ask me how I figured that out!
Ok,so you are going to use the panel bit and it's only a question of how. Multiple passes at progressivly deeper cuts. You might consider making a jig that holds the router and has an edge guide to prevent or at least minimize the router grabing and pulling out of your grip.
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post #5 of 14 Old 08-16-2012, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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I know it's unsafe, but there has to be an easy way to do it. Here is a link to what I'm trying to achieve with the top .

http://vermontwoodsstudios.com/produ...-media-console.

I just can't imagine production shops doing it by hand. Not this one in particular cause they just might.
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post #6 of 14 Old 08-16-2012, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, good call! The biggest one I have will do a 1 7/8 cut. Glad I looked, just a little late.
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post #7 of 14 Old 08-17-2012, 10:08 AM
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I would not use a panel cutting bit on a plunge router dangerous!
You might try doing it in steps? For instance mark out the taper you are trying to achieve and use a smaller bit to cut away the taper in sections leaving it "stair stepped". You could even do this with a dado blade in a table saw. Then finish up the taper with plane or a sander. It would be multiple steps but much safer.
I would start with the router on the inside then work my way out to keep a straight edge for the guide to ride against making deeper cuts each pass until you get to your outer edge.

Last edited by preacherman; 08-17-2012 at 10:13 AM.
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post #8 of 14 Old 08-17-2012, 11:18 AM
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Is the table top already attached to the table? If so, can you take it off?

If you can take the tabletop off, I would most likely try to rig up some temporary, but stable supports around your router table, and use the table for it. This would the ideal setup.

I would highly advise using a table edge router bit free hand. The router that should be used for those bits ate the 3HP type, and they really pack a wallop, and would be quite dangerous with such a large bit. If you do decide to try it, then I would be VERY patient, and take out 1/32" with each pass. The less wood you take out, the safer it will be.

Please let us know what you ended up doing.....

Fabian

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post #9 of 14 Old 08-17-2012, 04:42 PM
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But right on the package states for table use only. What to do.?

That's there for a reason. - lol
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post #10 of 14 Old 08-17-2012, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CNYWOODS View Post
I know it's unsafe, but there has to be an easy way to do it. Here is a link to what I'm trying to achieve with the top .

http://vermontwoodsstudios.com/produ...-media-console.

I just can't imagine production shops doing it by hand. Not this one in particular cause they just might.
Just where on that link shows what you want to achieve?

G
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post #11 of 14 Old 08-17-2012, 05:58 PM
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Safe or stupid? I'm looking for a way to taper or ease the underside of a table top... Say from 1" down to 5/8" starting about 3" in. I'm no good with hand planes and too big to run over the table saw or router table, my only thought was to use one of my panel bits and slowly plunge it to thickness. But right on the package states for table use only. What to do.?
1. I think it's time to tune up your hand tools skills. Get a couple of boards to practice with and get busy cutting the easement.
2. make an outfeed and side support for your router table. To much work, see #1.
3. Take top to cabinet shop. Too expensive? see #1
4. Do it your way, see nice Dr in ER.
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post #12 of 14 Old 08-17-2012, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by CNYWOODS
Safe or stupid? I'm looking for a way to taper or ease the underside of a table top... Say from 1" down to 5/8" starting about 3" in. I'm no good with hand planes and too big to run over the table saw or router table, my only thought was to use one of my panel bits and slowly plunge it to thickness. But right on the package states for table use only. What to do.?
Buy a dinged solid core door and build a big router table. And I serious about this.

I made one from a 5-4 X 7-2 door that I found at the habitat for humanity thrift store, that a contractor had donated after a hospital remodel.

I left it in Vegas when I moved in 2005.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum
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post #13 of 14 Old 08-17-2012, 10:41 PM
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when the work is large move the tool...

If the top is too large to manage, then I would make a slant jig or sled for a hand held router. The sled would have 2 rails spaced apart the width of the router base plus the difference to create the bevel, and long enough to rout the sides in one pass.
Repetitive passes would make the width of taper you need.
Sorta like this only at an angle:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #14 of 14 Old 08-18-2012, 02:09 PM
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I haven't been a woodworker long, but, I purchased a jig that enables me to make any raised panels I want; hence the picture I just posted. (I even spent less then a 150.00 on it) I've tried both a hand-controlled router (NOT a hand-held router) and a router table, and have found that comparing the two, the hand-controlled router is much safer than the router table, depending on the project. So, in a nut shell, it is safe to use a hand-controlled router with larger bits. It comes down to: you either move the tool and secure the work piece, or secure the tool and move the work piece, as with any tool, such as circular saw/table saw, jig saw/band saw.
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Last edited by panzer; 08-18-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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