planning wide joined boards
for my current hard maple project, got a batch of 5/4 from Hearnes (see previous thread(s) - really neat place btw)
the finished "width" will be roughly 9 inches - so I got nominal 6" and 4" wide rough maple. which I will plane smooth and dress to size.
it's a knife block; it's a glue up; five 25 mm layers. my thought was to alternate the width joints to minimize distortion - i.e. one layer 6+4, next layer 4+6 . . .
now, for doing five such lay ups, it's pretty darn clear the thickness of the 4 and 6 inch board must be super-the-same. my thought was to edge dress the rough cut, glue 'em edge to edge, then plane the resulting 10" board to thickness before trimming the edges to a (near) final dimension.
what the community experience in planning down edge glued composites?
(Cutech 4020200H-ct spiral planner, should it be a factor...)
I'd not be happy to have the joined board split in the planer. I've thought about edge gluing them up, planning, then cut apart and rejoin/reglue....
it's my first foray into wide widths. I intentionally opted out of a rough 5/4 by 10 inch width due to the long term cupping/distortion potential/problem....
Glued up widths are planed all the he time. Is that what your asking?
Keep the lengths at about 15" until all your planing is complete.
glue is very strong...
Assuming you have a properly squared and straight edge your glued joint will be as strong as the wood itself or stronger. Many tests by glue companies and others have shown this to be true.
As to planing them, no problem, they will not break apart in the planer. I've made a few knife blocks, one from Teak many years ago and it's still used daily in the kitchen. I kerfed the short block and glued it to a taller one. The tall block has matching kerfs in a two piece glue up for wider knives. :smile3:
I have the Steel City version of your planer. No problem planing glued up panels. I have been using Titebond 3 and waiting at least 1 day after glue up before planning. The instructions on the glue bottle say not to stress the joint until after 24 hours.
thanks for the tips! the blanks will be 24 inches + 2 for dibbles... finished thickness is one inch - my concern was whether vibrations would be enough to cause issues at the joint.
..let dry 24 hrs - good to know - I've been using Elmer's WoodGlue Max - waterproof & food safe; used it on a lot of projects and it has performed well.
...matching kerfs - that was also my first pass idea - but with the increased width I wanted the joints to overlap vs a "straight seam" sketch attached; dims in mm. upper left is the hole for a steel, mid-right is a dial thermometer, slot for kitchen shear below that. along the bottom are the measuring spoons (need to move them down a bit, and in the 'base' will be a slot for the Thermapen instant read.
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