Planer sled on "rails" - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By woodnthings
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 20 Old 01-30-2010, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,876
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Planer sled on "rails"


Planer sled
My version came from my "gluing frames" and thinking about a 2 rail system which simply screwed into the edges of the board to be planed.
Heck, I already had a gluing frame, why not try it? The following photos are the results. It worked like a charm!
The reason for a planer sled is your workpiece is too wide for your jointer:
Attached Thumbnails



The rails were a little short for this board as they should have extended 4 or 5 inches beyond the ends, but even so it worked fine. There was a little snipe as a result but it planed out afterwards.

More photos showing the board surfaced one side then removed from the sled and final surfaced. The pile of "chips" was collected by the single stage collector hooked directly to the planer hood.
Attached Thumbnails

dodgeboy77 likes this.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-30-2010 at 02:37 PM.
woodnthings is online now  
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to woodnthings For This Useful Post:
Maylar (07-24-2015), MT Stringer (07-22-2015), OnealWoodworking (05-23-2013), woodchux (06-07-2017)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 Old 01-30-2010, 07:51 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central Arkansas
Posts: 47
View DerekG's Photo Album My Photos
I like it, I may have to build one to get around my little 6" jointer for some wide stock I'm going to work with soon. Thanks for posting this!
DerekG is offline  
post #3 of 20 Old 01-30-2010, 10:32 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 62
View jaros bros.'s Photo Album My Photos
Very nice idea. I have a 9' sled that I simply add shims to what areas I need to but I think this might be more accurate.

Josh Jaros Remodeler in The Woodlands, Texas www.jarosbros.com
jaros bros. is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 20 Old 01-30-2010, 11:17 PM
djg
Senior Something
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,019
View djg's Photo Album My Photos
Does the sled have a tendency to rack when a board with a slight twist is installed? Do you just lay the board in the tracks rocking it side to side to find the best fit and then tighten the nuts? I do like the idea better then the sleds that use shims. Can the planer's rollers down-ward pressure cause the board to drop down or flex in places where it is unsupported? I don't mean to be bashing your sled, but I would consider making a 5' or longer one if I understood it better. It's probably clear to others, I'm just a little dense.

Last edited by djg; 01-30-2010 at 11:21 PM.
djg is offline  
post #5 of 20 Old 01-31-2010, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,876
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Work in progress

There is no racking since the board is not under stress if the edges are parallel. I just located the board on the rabbets as level as possible.
Then tightened it up. You can flip it over and look for a gap, and put a small wedge in the gap and that's it. It does tighten very well without a wedge, however. Some sandpaper glued to the insides of the rabbet would hold it as well. This is a work in progress....I just threw it together to test the idea.. That board was out by at least 1/8"+ . The frames have a rabbet to rest the board edge on both sides.
It just seemed to me that the other sleds I had seen were over engineered and more complicated than necessary. I guess I'm a just minimalist? bill
I'll try a longer one soon.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-31-2010 at 12:17 AM.
woodnthings is online now  
post #6 of 20 Old 01-31-2010, 01:52 AM
Member
 
falbergsawco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 73
View falbergsawco's Photo Album My Photos
Minimalism rules Bill, nice work.
falbergsawco is offline  
post #7 of 20 Old 01-31-2010, 03:33 AM
Senior Member
 
jlhaslip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Golden, BC, Canada
Posts: 487
View jlhaslip's Photo Album My Photos
Send a message via Skype™ to jlhaslip
I'd be interested in any further updates as your get to tinkering... thanks.
jlhaslip is offline  
post #8 of 20 Old 05-18-2011, 01:29 PM
Hobbyist wood-butcher
 
thegrgyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Saint Charles, IL
Posts: 1,556
View thegrgyle's Photo Album My Photos
I really like this......

Bill,

I am very impressed by this. I like its simplicity, and seems like it should work well.

I am curious, though.............What is the longest sled that you have worked with this setup? I wonder how it would work if I made a 4' sled..... do you ever plane a smaller piece in a longer sled (i.e. a 2' long piece in a 4' long sled)? I would think that might be dangerous if I were to try that.

Fabian

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
thegrgyle is offline  
post #9 of 20 Old 05-18-2011, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,876
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Nope I haven't tried a longer sled

RE a short piece in a long sled I would just make a similar width scrap to butt up against the "good" piece and prevent the sled from collapsing. Tighten up all the bolts real snug. Metal doesn't like to go through the planer. Bigger, wider rails won't hurt either for more surface to bear on. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
The Following User Says Thank You to woodnthings For This Useful Post:
sawdustsnifer (12-03-2014)
post #10 of 20 Old 07-22-2015, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,876
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
just had a thought on this

A thickness planer is "auto feed" unlike a jointer where you have to control the feed rate and possibly have your hands where they shouldn't be...? That's a safety feature that I hadn't thought of. The controlled rate of feed may also have some advantages in tear out?
Small wedges in the gaps below will prevent any feed roller pressure from shifting the work.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-22-2015 at 11:06 PM.
woodnthings is online now  
post #11 of 20 Old 07-23-2015, 09:42 AM
cps
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 431
View cps's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
A thickness planer is "auto feed" unlike a jointer where you have to control the feed rate and possibly have your hands where they shouldn't be...? That's a safety feature that I hadn't thought of. The controlled rate of feed may also have some advantages in tear out?
Small wedges in the gaps below will prevent any feed roller pressure from shifting the work.
I do get less tear out on my planer than my jointer. I always run it at the slower "finish" feed rate as well.
cps is offline  
post #12 of 20 Old 06-07-2017, 06:35 AM
Member
 
falbergsawco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 73
View falbergsawco's Photo Album My Photos
I make my sleds to ride on parallel alum. angles clamped to table in line with drift angle. The trick is to provide an x-y adjustable plane for a piece of plywood x" X y". That's a semi-permanent part of the sled, in that you nibble off a layer of ply every time you separate your last veneer and the screw holes attaching it to the sled frame eventually wear out. I gorilla-glue my workpiece to the (disposable) 3/4" plywood "plane" . The "plane" pc is adjustable inside the sled frame. Four 1/4"-20 threaded rod screws push out while a central bracket (and a bitch to make BTW), drywall-screwed, pulls the disposable plywood "plane" back against the center of the frame (I used steel picture hanging wire to allow flexible alignment - 100% accurate plane parallelity to the blade is essential ) Set up thusly, everything in that size range of workpiece will cut planar(ly) parallel to the last and you only move the rail by .125" )(or whatever thickness) thereafter. Is that clear enough to follow? You only set planar parallelity one time for each sled. Make your sled long enough to accommodate what you do. Same for the rail. Think 6' sled on a 12' rail. Use patio door slide bearings to "capture" the rails. You may need to counter-balance the sled for thick, heavy motherboards. Remain calm.
falbergsawco is offline  
post #13 of 20 Old 06-07-2017, 06:43 AM
Member
 
falbergsawco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 73
View falbergsawco's Photo Album My Photos
Sorry. That last post referred to sled-feeding a band saw, not a planer. I missed that part. I don't use planers; not needed with frictionless tensioning.
falbergsawco is offline  
post #14 of 20 Old 06-07-2017, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,876
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by falbergsawco View Post
Sorry. That last post referred to sled-feeding a band saw, not a planer. I missed that part. I don't use planers; not needed with frictionless tensioning.
Wouldn't you expect a thread entitled "Planer sled on rails" to be about planers? ....

Start a thread about your bandsaw sled and post a photo of it. I made one from plywood and a bunch of roller stands when I was milling a short log into slabs.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
post #15 of 20 Old 06-07-2017, 11:38 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 101
View Wil_Bloodworth's Photo Album My Photos
I cannot tell from the photos but it looks like you're running the screws through the work piece. Is that correct or is the work piece simply sitting on top of the screws?

- Wil

Great Success REQUIRES Great Effort
Wil_Bloodworth is offline  
post #16 of 20 Old 06-07-2017, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 25,876
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
threaded rods, not "screws" ...

The top photo shows my "clamp" for gluing shorter board together to make wider ones. Its just 2 pieces with rabbets to support the boards exactly on top of the rods for leveling. You apply the glue, place the boards in the clamp on top of the rods and rabbets and tighten the nuts.

It would be used exactly the same way for a planer sled... no glue, of course. If necessary, shims would be added under the highest corner of a twisted board for support. The wood is held really tightly in the clamp, but a shim or two would be better.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is online now  
post #17 of 20 Old 06-08-2017, 04:50 PM
Member
 
falbergsawco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 73
View falbergsawco's Photo Album My Photos
The next cut in succession is shown resting on the table and in the 1st pic, then resting on the frame post in the second. Once the plane is adjusted, the next plane/disposable plywood backing gets attached by four little (1.625" drywall screws) Every cut will follow that same alignment so be sure you get the first set-up perfect because everything thereafter will be exactly the same. I was getting near transluscent at one point. It's fun!!! I hand fed a 2 x4 rip to establish blade drift. The next step is to index the 1/16" advance sequence . Right now I have to carefully measure each advancement by 1/16 (or 3/32") with a plain old fashioned ruler and do it equally on each end of the rail parallel to awl-scratched driftline. You only scribe the driftline once. Everything thereafter is relative to that. Practice /preview by taking plywood apart one-at-a-time. Having fun yet?
Attached Images
  
falbergsawco is offline  
post #18 of 20 Old 06-09-2017, 04:33 AM
Member
 
falbergsawco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 73
View falbergsawco's Photo Album My Photos
The same basic idea could be applied to planers by turning the sled 90degrees and spanning the workpiece from above. Brain not as sharp after the stroke. Should move whole post to new thread.
falbergsawco is offline  
post #19 of 20 Old 06-09-2017, 06:33 AM
Senior Member
 
allpurpose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,472
View allpurpose's Photo Album My Photos
I like it W&things.. I probably ought to get around to one myself..
I have a router sled I've used a few times, but I like the planer much better and really need to build a sled for it..

My seldom used router sled..

I made it to level off the bench top, but haven't gotten around to doing that yet..but hey, it's a nice spot for dust to settle at.

I figured it's time to change my signature so hold your breath. This is it.
Impressive, huh?

Last edited by allpurpose; 06-09-2017 at 06:36 AM.
allpurpose is offline  
post #20 of 20 Old 06-09-2017, 10:21 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Vernon, BC
Posts: 423
View bargoon's Photo Album My Photos
Good idea Woodnthings. Many of us with smaller shops appreciate tools and jigs that we can multi-task.
bargoon is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Anyone use a craftsman industrial 15" planer? ponch37300 Power Tools & Machinery 12 03-18-2014 10:14 AM
Older Sun-Tech 12" planer voner Power Tools & Machinery 1 12-24-2009 04:06 PM
Delta 13" Planer jimeast Power Tools & Machinery 0 04-22-2009 11:50 PM
Dewalt 13" planer djonesax Power Tools & Machinery 6 02-24-2009 09:26 PM
"Old Gallery" to "My Photos" cabinetman Site Help and Suggestions 1 11-05-2008 06:20 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome