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post #1 of 27 Old 11-19-2007, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Planer Problems

I was planning some wood yesterday when the wood stopped rolling through and I had to pull it out by hand.Anyone know why and how to fix it?
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post #2 of 27 Old 11-19-2007, 12:39 PM
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The first thing I would check is to see if your rubber drive rollers need to be cleaned.

Ken

"What we hope ever to do with ease, we must first learn to do with diligence".
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post #3 of 27 Old 11-19-2007, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Wow,quick reply.Thanks Ken.Computer and planer aren't in the same place.I will give it a try and get back to you tomorrow.Thanks!
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post #4 of 27 Old 11-20-2007, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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The rollers didn't seem dirty,but I cleaned them and lubricated the table.It's working fine now,thanks.
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post #5 of 27 Old 11-21-2007, 11:48 AM
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Hi Jon

I sometimes have the same problem with my Delta 121/2 inch planer. I think, that in my case it may be that some of the the boards are not a consistent thickness through their length. I also found out that my 121/2 inch planer will actually only handle 121/4 inch wide boards because of the space between the side guides.

Gerry
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post #6 of 27 Old 11-21-2007, 11:57 AM
 
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I've had that stalling problem with my 12" Delta but it's because I run reeeeeeeeally thin stuff that I probably shouldn't be trying to. It was A LOT of fun watching the flamed koa EXPLODE!!!!!
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post #7 of 27 Old 11-26-2007, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Explode,nice.By the way,it was the table causing too much friction.Lubed it everything fine.
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post #8 of 27 Old 11-26-2007, 01:39 PM
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Hi Jon

What did you lube the table with? I would like to see if it helps mine out.

Gerry
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post #9 of 27 Old 11-26-2007, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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It was some new stuff I just bought made by Boeing.The bottle is not here I'll get back about it tommorrow.
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post #10 of 27 Old 11-27-2007, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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It was Boeshield T-9.Corrosion protection/waterproof lubrication.I used to use wax but I decided to try this stuff out.I think i'll go back to wax.
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post #11 of 27 Old 11-27-2007, 03:10 PM
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I have tried everything over the years and have always come back
to the easiest and quickest, Lemon Pledge.
Don't laugh until you try it.

JC
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post #12 of 27 Old 11-27-2007, 04:32 PM
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Clark, on that same note have you tried Pam on your saw blades keeps the build up down, would proably work on planer blades too

Never measure what you can scribe
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post #13 of 27 Old 11-28-2007, 09:04 AM
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No I haven't, where does she live? (LOL)

Sounds good, I'll give it a try.
I have been useing silicone spray, it too works pretty good
on the blades.

JC
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post #14 of 27 Old 11-28-2007, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JON BELL View Post
It was Boeshield T-9.Corrosion protection/waterproof lubrication.I used to use wax but I decided to try this stuff out.I think i'll go back to wax.
Hi Jon
I am familiar with Boeshield T9, having used it when I worked for Pacific Western Airlines over twenty years ago. I do not think I can readily obtain it now, unless I make a run down to the surplus store in Seattle Washington. Any problems with it staying on the wood, and messing up your finish?

Thanks for the feedback.

Gerry
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post #15 of 27 Old 11-28-2007, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingfisher View Post
Clark, on that same note have you tried Pam on your saw blades keeps the build up down, would proably work on planer blades too
Hi Kingfisher;

Do you have any problems with the Pam staying on the wood, and messing up your finish?

Gerry
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post #16 of 27 Old 11-28-2007, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry KIERNAN View Post
I do not think I can readily obtain it now, unless I make a run down to the surplus store in Seattle Washington.
Which won't be open much Longer from what I understand..........
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post #17 of 27 Old 11-28-2007, 02:39 PM
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Never had a probmel with it on the saw or the planer but I would only spary them every now and then and wipe them dry if they got dripping with it. I would assume it could cause problems. The table saw was always rough cutting and the planer the wet residue goes away quickly, first 12" of the first pass, leaving a slick coating on the the blades and the little cove area that gets the sap build up.

Never measure what you can scribe
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post #18 of 27 Old 11-28-2007, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mdlbldrmatt135 View Post
Which won't be open much Longer from what I understand..........
Oh? I hadn't heard anything. Are they planning to close it down? That's too bad, if they do. Mind you, from where I am now, it would take me about ten hours to get there anyway.

Gerry
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post #19 of 27 Old 11-28-2007, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingfisher View Post
Never had a probmel with it on the saw or the planer but I would only spary them every now and then and wipe them dry if they got dripping with it. I would assume it could cause problems. The table saw was always rough cutting and the planer the wet residue goes away quickly, first 12" of the first pass, leaving a slick coating on the the blades and the little cove area that gets the sap build up.
Thanks for the tip kingfisher. I will give it a try.

Gerry
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post #20 of 27 Old 11-28-2007, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCCLARK View Post
I have tried everything over the years and have always come back
to the easiest and quickest, Lemon Pledge.
Don't laugh until you try it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCCLARK View Post
No I haven't, where does she live? (LOL)

Sounds good, I'll give it a try.
I have been useing silicone spray, it too works pretty good
on the blades.

I almost cringed when you guys said this. Silicon is the evil empire of finishing. It will cause all kinds of problems, especially fish-eyes. These are forbidden products in my shop. I just use plain old butchers wax. Safe, cheap and works well, a can will last you a long time. I am a one man shop, work 60 hours a week and a can will last me 1-2 years, $10.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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