Planer blade sharpening - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 03-19-2012, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Planer blade sharpening

Is anyone sharpening their own blades. I'm looking for a system that works for 13" blades. I have no place close to send them to and really want to do them myself if I can come up with a system that doesn't require a large investment.

I used to have a guy do them that sharpened very large paper cutters used by the company that printed the JC Penny catalog. They were perfect.

Who has the answer ?

Al

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post #2 of 20 Old 03-19-2012, 10:16 PM
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I have used one of these

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1B7/ref=asc_df_B0000DD1B71845902?smid=A2LM8ZC59IT9RX&tag=nextagusmp0356065-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0000DD1B7
But I modified it slightly. I would think with your 8020 experience you could come up with a sled that would work off a grinding wheel or belt that would hold the blades at the proper angle and allow them to slide smoothly. I've often thought of an abrasive wheel in the table saw tilted to the correct angle and a sled in the miter slot. Somethin' like that maybe? bill

Here's another gizmo, but short on the details:

http://www.amazon.com/VEIL-20-PLANER...pd_sim_sbs_k_3

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #3 of 20 Old 03-20-2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer
Is anyone sharpening their own blades. I'm looking for a system that works for 13" blades. I have no place close to send them to and really want to do them myself if I can come up with a system that doesn't require a large investment.

I used to have a guy do them that sharpened very large paper cutters used by the company that printed the JC Penny catalog. They were perfect.

Who has the answer ?

Al

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I use a special jig on my Tormek for mine.
You may want to send them to Eide Saw and blade Co until you come up with your own solution. Ship to them and they will return razor like for about $20.
http://www.eidesaw.com/
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post #4 of 20 Old 03-21-2012, 12:07 AM
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I also own a Tormek and bought the expensive jig, but you get what you pay for. Since planner knives and jointer blades have to be perfectly sharpened to use, I think (some folks will disagree and I respect their posts) the very expensive Tormek system is the only system that will meet your needs.

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post #5 of 20 Old 03-21-2012, 04:50 AM
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I do them and am sure others do as well.But the 64k$ question is whether you want them hollow ground or not.

As a data point I hollow grind mine(and wouldn't have it any other way).Either use our surface grinder or,more often than not simply slap'm on a fixture that utilizes one of our bench grinders.That is so simply Fred Flinestone that it defies explanation....yet functions perfectly.BW

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post #6 of 20 Old 03-21-2012, 12:44 PM
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I made my own jig for planer blades and it works great. I use sheets of sandpaper, though, and I don't think they are 13" across the diagonal (I'm sharpening 12" blades). I'd suggest finding some long strips of sandpaper, like those made for turners.

It's very similar to what this guy did:

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post #7 of 20 Old 03-23-2012, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streamwinner
I made my own jig for planer blades and it works great. I use sheets of sandpaper, though, and I don't think they are 13" across the diagonal (I'm sharpening 12" blades). I'd suggest finding some long strips of sandpaper, like those made for turners.

It's very similar to what this guy did:

Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESRLkrCy5Y4
I saw this and feel its just not going to be accurate. But thanks.

Al

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post #8 of 20 Old 03-24-2012, 12:37 AM
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Steamwinner - I also watched the video and I also have a doubt, although the "Sharpie" routine is an excellent method used by the best - Tormek. The system you showed us is very, very good, but lacks perfection, which Tormek offers. For one thing, using wood for your jig does make it a lot less expensive, but wood moves with the seasons. I can acknowledge your system works with less accurate tools like chisels and hand plane blades that have wiggle room. But for machine jointers and planners, perfection almost seems to be a requirement.
The Tormek system is very expensive, but you get what you pay for. That being said, I didn't buy my Tormek with a specific $ amount, but I bought mine with coffee break $. Translated, at $8 per day, my Tormek cost me 3 months of coffee break $. Now that I have a Tormek (and saved a few more months of coffee break $), I can sharpen expensive kitchen cutlery, scissors, chisels and plane knive. I own a lathe and sharpen my skews, gouges and parting tools. . I have carving knives I sharpen myself. I know I could set up a sharpening and make some $ on the side (enough to pay for my machine and much more. Yahoo even has a "Tormek" group that will verify what I'm saying plus acknowledge the expense. Do your homework. I found independent sites that tested the Tormek against cheaper versions that claimed to be just as good, but the end results verified "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". Good luck with your decision.
This is not meant as a critique to folks using other methods. I worked for a master craftsman who used a belt sander just like BWSmith and did well with it, but I'm not a master. Woodnthings also does very well, I know. So... how much $ do you have and how much are you willing

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post #9 of 20 Old 03-24-2012, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Okay I could buy more than 10 sets of planer blades for the price of the Tormek without the planer knife attachment. I can send the blades out to be sharpened more than 20 times for less. I only need them sharpened 4 times a year. In 5 years I would still have money in my pocket.

I'm looking for a shop built fixture. I also don't like hollow ground for planer blades. But thanks Guys.

Al

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post #10 of 20 Old 03-26-2012, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieL View Post
Steamwinner - I also watched the video and I also have a doubt, although the "Sharpie" routine is an excellent method used by the best - Tormek. The system you showed us is very, very good, but lacks perfection, which Tormek offers. For one thing, using wood for your jig does make it a lot less expensive, but wood moves with the seasons. I can acknowledge your system works with less accurate tools like chisels and hand plane blades that have wiggle room. But for machine jointers and planners, perfection almost seems to be a requirement.
The Tormek system is very expensive, but you get what you pay for. That being said, I didn't buy my Tormek with a specific $ amount, but I bought mine with coffee break $. Translated, at $8 per day, my Tormek cost me 3 months of coffee break $. Now that I have a Tormek (and saved a few more months of coffee break $), I can sharpen expensive kitchen cutlery, scissors, chisels and plane knive. I own a lathe and sharpen my skews, gouges and parting tools. . I have carving knives I sharpen myself. I know I could set up a sharpening and make some $ on the side (enough to pay for my machine and much more. Yahoo even has a "Tormek" group that will verify what I'm saying plus acknowledge the expense. Do your homework. I found independent sites that tested the Tormek against cheaper versions that claimed to be just as good, but the end results verified "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". Good luck with your decision.
This is not meant as a critique to folks using other methods. I worked for a master craftsman who used a belt sander just like BWSmith and did well with it, but I'm not a master. Woodnthings also does very well, I know. So... how much $ do you have and how much are you willing
The jig I built is made of plywood, so there's no movement. I also modified the design to have two wheels for more stability. But if you want perfection I struggle to think of a shop-made jig that does better. And no disrespect, but "getting what you pay for" doesn't always apply; there have been lots of times when I spent more for "quality" items just have them break or perform poorly.

There were two other jigs that I came across last year when I was deciding which way to go for planer blades, both of which were showcased on this site.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/m...ing-jig-14481/ I didn't like this one much because it seemed much more prone to skewing given that you can never be sure you are giving equal pressure across the entire blade.

Woodenthings (member on this site) also used his own approach with something similar to the above but sideways. I can't find his post right now.
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post #11 of 20 Old 03-26-2012, 02:31 PM
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I've noticed that Tormek owners are always very adamant about the quality of their sharpening system. Tormek offers a planer knife grinder that only does 10" knives without having un-clamp and move the knife over to do the other half and relies on finger pressure and manual sliding of the knives across the wetstone. I just don't see how that could be any more accurate than a lot of other methods I've seen.

I have a Grizzly wet grinder copy cat of a Tormek. It works well and I feel I got way more than what I paid for. I fabricated my own knife grinding attachment that utilizes a ball bearing drawer guide which allows me to grind a 15" knife without resetting the knife.

I've never used a Tormek so maybe I don't know what I'm missing. It is just not apparent to me why Tormek would be so much better or worth so much more.

I should mention that my system is slow. It takes me over an hour to just touch up my planer knives. If there is any chips in the knives I will send then out for sharpening as it would take forever to get the nicks out. Maybe the Tormek is faster.

Bret
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post #12 of 20 Old 03-26-2012, 05:01 PM
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post #13 of 20 Old 03-26-2012, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola Ranch
I've noticed that Tormek owners are always very adamant about the quality of their sharpening system. Tormek offers a planer knife grinder that only does 10" knives without having un-clamp and move the knife over to do the other half and relies on finger pressure and manual sliding of the knives across the wetstone. I just don't see how that could be any more accurate than a lot of other methods I've seen.

I have a Grizzly wet grinder copy cat of a Tormek. It works well and I feel I got way more than what I paid for. I fabricated my own knife grinding attachment that utilizes a ball bearing drawer guide which allows me to grind a 15" knife without resetting the knife.

I've never used a Tormek so maybe I don't know what I'm missing. It is just not apparent to me why Tormek would be so much better or worth so much more.

I should mention that my system is slow. It takes me over an hour to just touch up my planer knives. If there is any chips in the knives I will send then out for sharpening as it would take forever to get the nicks out. Maybe the Tormek is faster.

Bret
Here again is a good example of a tool made in Sweden. Good quality but the high price is due to Sweden being a socialist country with very high taxes. 37% sales tax. VAT is added on as it leaves the country which they pass on to the consumer.

Volvo Saab and Festool fall right in line.

Al

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post #14 of 20 Old 03-26-2012, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE="woodnthings"]http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1B7/ref=asc_df_B0000DD1B71845902?smid=A2LM8ZC59IT9RX&tag=nextagusmp0356065-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0000DD1B7
But I modified it slightly. I would think with your 8020 experience you could come up with a sled that would work off a grinding wheel or belt that would hold the blades at the proper angle and allow them to slide smoothly. I've often thought of an abrasive wheel in the table saw tilted to the correct angle and a sled in the miter slot. Somethin' like that maybe? bill

Hey Bill

Thanks for putting a bug in my head with the 8020. If I do use it I'm going to rig it to the panel saw so I can use the rail and get double duty out of it.
I too thought the table saw was a way to spin a wheel. I think I tried it but had no way to dress the wheel true enough. The wheel I had was so out of balance at that speed I thought it was going to fly apart.

Al

How are you coming on your panel saw?

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post #15 of 20 Old 03-26-2012, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieL
I also own a Tormek and bought the expensive jig, but you get what you pay for. Since planner knives and jointer blades have to be perfectly sharpened to use, I think (some folks will disagree and I respect their posts) the very expensive Tormek system is the only system that will meet your needs.
Posted like a true wood snob. Hey it takes one to know one. :)

Al

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post #16 of 20 Old 03-26-2012, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWSmith
I do them and am sure others do as well.But the 64k$ question is whether you want them hollow ground or not.

As a data point I hollow grind mine(and wouldn't have it any other way).Either use our surface grinder or,more often than not simply slap'm on a fixture that utilizes one of our bench grinders.That is so simply Fred Flinestone that it defies explanation....yet functions perfectly.BW
Do be kind and explain the meaning of "data point" as it relates to your post.

Oh yes the hollow ground system. History tells us that became popular when the grinder left a hollow grind due to the method at hand. Much like..... wag the dog. Lol. The new kid on the block is ......secondary bevel. Or......micro bevel. Or haven't you heard?

Just sayin

Al

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post #17 of 20 Old 03-26-2012, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by EWerner View Post
I thought about buying that one. How does it work for you?

Bret
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post #18 of 20 Old 03-26-2012, 11:07 PM
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I just use the grinder and bar that came with my planer.
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post #19 of 20 Old 03-27-2012, 06:02 AM
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A data point in this case could also have been said.....(considering the two schools,hollow grind vs not).....uhhh,put me in the hollow grind column,or group.BW

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post #20 of 20 Old 03-27-2012, 06:05 AM
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I do a hollow grind like BW, then put on a small micro bevel. Maybe 15-25 thousandths.

Harrison, at your service!
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