...Iíve been tasked by my wifeís preacher with making 3 small crosses - about 11Ē high by 8Ē wide - for presentation to some kids (teens, I think).
No problem with one. Itís dry, no bark.
The other two are WET! 30+ percent moisture. I know whatíll happen as these things dry. Iíve discussed this with Preacher. He says do it anyway. I was given the wood Monday evening. He will make the presentation this coming Sunday.
Perhaps I can be of some assistance...???...Sorry I didn't see this till now!!!
I actually see...no issue whatsoever...with what your "Wife's Preacher" is requesting?
I work almost exclusively in green woodworking systems
so within that context there are a number of ways of doing this, however they do get limited since we have to get this done for you by Sunday?!!?
I know if you where here that would not be a challenge at all, but talking you through it on a forum will depend on your woodworking skill sets...???...yet still more than doable...
...The sticks are what the kids chose as ďwalking sticksĒ while on a retreat, so Preacher thinks a small cross from these woods would be meaningful to them.
That is a wonderful idea he had...!!!...I agree fully with the context and the meaning this will have to them. Very special indeed!
..Now, to my questions. The wood is oak, it is wet, and apparently was cut a few months ago, so during cold (for us) weather. He would like to leave the bark on. Right now itís tighter than Dickís hatband, but whatíll happen later is anybodyís guess. Should I try to add a finish or leave as is? If finishing is recommended, I prefer using oils. Good or bad on bark? I know Tung is out due to drying time. Maybe Watco Danish Oil? Wax? Other?.
I only use traditional finishes...So we are on the same page...
As to leaving "as is" that my be wise if you want to get the bark to "pop off" and then glue it back on for them later?
As to the bark and finishes...I find that oily slows the drying process down a great deal so may well help the wood retain its bark. I know in Adirondack and Rustic furniture I do it helps...
...What might I do to prep the bark?
Light brushing off...nothing more in this case...
...If I dilute some Titebond II & paint the cut ends with it, will that reduce end checking?
That will work great!!!
...I have a few oils, some spar varnish & spar urethane, and some clear poly. Joinery: Iím thinking either a dowel glued in from the back, or a screw.
YES...Dowel and all wood joiner...no plastic finishes...
...Iím half-lapping the pieces to join them. I like dowels, but with green wood my thinking is that with a screw adjustments could be more easily made as the wood dries.
I wish I could of seen this earlier...I'm not certain if a "half lap" is the best joint?
If you read this and haven't done the joinery yet, I can talk you through a method that will get the pieces "scribe jointed" to each other so they look as if they grew that way...Its up to you?
...The crosses will sit on Red Oak bases. Again, I usually use dowels, but leaning toward screws, and maybe adding a clipped brad to help keep the cross from turning on the base...
I would stick with all wood joinery and a good adhesive. In this case...for speed and strength...I would recommend PL Premium as it is a true structural adhesive meant for architectural loads...AND!!!...most important...it loves wet wood...!!!
Good luck...Let me know if I can help further, and do please share photos!