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open shelving

673 views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  TomCT2 
#1 ·
I am not a woodworker, but I am attempting to complete an open shelving project in my bathroom. I have been to several lumber yards to get a sense of what's available. And now I have questions. Please forgive my terminology errors.

I plan to install 2 long shelves: Length 93in, Depth 7in, Height 5/4 or 6/4.

Questions

1- for this size shelf, are there certain species I should stay away from or seek out?
2- would it be a bad idea to use rough cut lumber and seal it as is? or does rough lumber require lots of prep/cleaning/etc? i love the look of "finished" rough-sawn oak for example but not sure what it takes to turn it from actual rough to usable rough. and the shelves dont need to be perfectly flat like a table, but relatively flat so that items aren't falling over..
3- does a bathroom shelf need specialty sealer / top coat? the shelves are not expected to be wet, just live in the occasional steamy room conditions.
4- finally- i want to minimize the hardware brackets (not floating) - any recommendations for type and qty to support this length? My contractor added plywood blocking behind the walls so it SHOULD be pretty secure. >>pictures attached

thank you so much !!
 

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#2 ·
As heavy as the shelves are that you are proposing it wouldn't need much support. You could mount them on the ends and put a little piece of trim under the shelf between to prevent sagging. You could also put the shelves up first and drywall between. It just sitting on the drywall would be enough support in the middle.

Humidity can do a lot of unpredictable things to wood. Be sure to seal them well on both sides. You might use a water based polyurethane if you are not going to stain the shelves. Any oil based finish yellows as it ages and tends to look bad on light wood. The water based finish won't yellow but looks bland on wood. To counter that you could use a natural stain to enhance the grain and then put the waterborne finish over it. Now, the linseed oil contained in a natural stain is incompatible with a waterborne finish so you would have to let the stain dry for a couple days before topcoating.

You say the shelves won't be getting wet but a sweaty bottle would be enough to cause a mark on the wood is there isn't sufficient finish on it. Also red oak is prone to turn black when exposed to water. White oak on the other hand is suitable to use outdoors.
 
#3 ·
I am not a woodworker, but I am attempting to complete an open shelving project in my bathroom. I have been to several lumber yards to get a sense of what's available. And now I have questions. Please forgive my terminology errors.



I plan to install 2 long shelves: Length 93in, Depth 7in, Height 5/4 or 6/4.



Questions



1- for this size shelf, are there certain species I should stay away from or seek out?

2- would it be a bad idea to use rough cut lumber and seal it as is? or does rough lumber require lots of prep/cleaning/etc? i love the look of "finished" rough-sawn oak for example but not sure what it takes to turn it from actual rough to usable rough. and the shelves dont need to be perfectly flat like a table, but relatively flat so that items aren't falling over..

3- does a bathroom shelf need specialty sealer / top coat? the shelves are not expected to be wet, just live in the occasional steamy room conditions.

4- finally- i want to minimize the hardware brackets (not floating) - any recommendations for type and qty to support this length? My contractor added plywood blocking behind the walls so it SHOULD be pretty secure. >>pictures attached



thank you so much !!
A couple other comments :. Wood, if you desire grain structure, then perhaps several types of veneer covered plywood, if you decide to paint then medium density overlay ( mdo) is available and paints early.
Plywood is stable in humid areas , especially if sealed. Oak, hickory, walnut, Luan are just a few of the species available. 3/4 , 1/2 ,and 1/4 thickness are really available at lumber yards and some big box stores, sheets commonly come in 4 x 8 ft (48" x 96") Menards is especially handy with many choices of plywood. If you 45 degree the edges, you'll make the shelf appear thicker, but it will remain light. French cleats to hold it on the wall may also be an option. Tom k

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#4 ·
leaving it rough sawn has the issue you mention - small containers/bottles/etc will not sit neatly on the top surface. you could use "coasters" for small items - but at some point it becomes a PITA.

you will need to select rough sawn super carefully to get a straight edge on the wall (altho if you had to rip it straight, who would see . . . .) and some reasonable flatness to the top. I've seen some pretty rough rough sawn stuff.... you want to avoid any twist. 5/4 would be plenty strong; thicker for aesethics...
planning just the top smooth would make for good functionality with least impact on the rough sawn look.

at near 8 feet long I'd go with three supports at (roughly) 30" - two is likely to be inadequate.
you could make narrow corbels, or use std shelf brackets and 'clad' them with wood - that makes for a very light/delicate appearance but with good strength underneath.

species is what you like - cherry, walnut, oak, birch, . . .
I wouldn't hesitate to use red oak in the bathroom - regardless of wood, it has to be sealed. I personally don't object to oil urethanes darkening a bit - makes a warm patina vs. the starkness of a fresh "gosh it's still new" finish.
 
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