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One Tool that you recommend strongly

5K views 48 replies 35 participants last post by  _Ogre 
#1 ·
What is your #1 tool that you must have in your shop (and others too) other than the table saw, router, sander, radial mitre saw, band saw, and a grinder. Well, make that 1, 2, and 3!

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#9 ·
What is your #1 tool that you must have in your shop (and others too) other than the table saw, router, sander, radial mitre saw, band saw, and a grinder. Well, make that 1, 2, and 3!
What is a "sander"? I have a very very old belt sander, a very old 1/3 sheet finish sander, and a new random orbital sander - all of them handheld power tools. I also use my drill press for sanding. I would love to own some kind of bench sander: a oscillating spindle sander, or perhaps that Ridgid oscillating belt sander, or perhaps a combination belt/disk sander. So, what is a "sander", because there are so many types?

Other than the tools on your list, I would recommend:

1. Workbench with good lighting above it. ... Is that cheating? :)
2. Drill press. You can use it for sanding, too.
3. Router Table. If "router" does not include "router table" then my #3 would be router table.
4. Lathe. Otherwise, my #3 would be a lathe, including the tool set to use it, such as gouges, chuck, mandrel, etc.

5. Woodworking Hand Tools: If "Workbench" doesn't count as a tool, then add a set of woodworking hand tools: start with a #5 low angle jack plane with two blades, plus a set of good chisels, plus some way to keep them sharp that isn't the grinder. In the future, add additional hand planes, scrapers, spokeshave, etc.

Honorable mentions, but too low on the list to make the cut:
6. Power planer.
7. Jointer.

NOTES:
* I assumed that the query excludes important "handyman" power hand tools that are often used for woodworking, e.g., circular saw, electric hand drill/driver, Dremel tool, etc. which might be corded or cordless.
* I assumed that the query excludes basic "handyman" hand tools - screwdrivers, hammers, pliers, wrenches, etc.
* I assumed that the query excludes woodworking consumables that are essential to the process: sandpaper and finishing supplies come to mind.
 
#11 ·
A bench-mounted 8" or 10" drill press.
I can predict the angles of drilled holes, every time, any woods, any metals.
I can cut and shape seashell or even copper clad printed circuit board for wood carving inlay.
I can (carefully) grind out a chip in a glass.
I can buff and polish any tarnished or scratched metal anything, especially cutlery.

It's relatively quiet, easy to rig dust collection to a ShopVac.
Always wear eye protection and use a really BRIGHT LED light.
I liked it so much that I bought a second one for my partner's house (for me to use.)
Buying buffing wheels as a gift for your GF is kinda nice.
 
#17 ·
Things that are true and square..combination square, engineers square, etc.. Nothing drives me crazier than a square that ain't square.
Miterset is one of my favorite tools if you can call it a tool.. It's great for squaring up the table saw miter gauge and setting other angles right the first time every time.
 
#28 · (Edited)
This is a great thread, and I am enjoying it thoroughly. Everybody's input has been so helpful. I hope that the OP got a lot of good info out of it too. Please allow me to extend a few words of caution and advice:

* It is a lot easier to acquire tools than it is to master them.
* Woodworking tools are inherently dangerous. Each tool has its own safety concerns.
* Mastering the safety aspects of each tool takes time and practice. I suspect that there is a bit of luck involved for newbies - hopefully the built-in safeties will protect the newbie from the mistakes that happen as they learn. (P.S. ... and hopefully the newbies learn from their mistakes so that they never repeat them. If only we were so lucky!)
* If you acquire many tools at once, it increases your risk because you have so much more to learn before you master safe use of all those tools. I would not recommend buying all the tools in @jimnycricket65's initial list all at once. The same applies to the great tool recommendations from everyone.

Personally, I would tell a newbie to start with a table saw. Master safe operations of it first. Then buy what you need, as each project demands it. Avoid projects that require to you master more than one new tool per project. At the start, find projects that fit your skill level and the tools at hand.

(Note: I assume that the OP has basic "handyman" tools available, and has mastered safe operation of them. By basic "handyman" tools, I mean the usual hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches, etc. plus small power hand tools like a drill/driver, a circular saw, and perhaps a dremel-type tool.)

Even if the OP limits himself to buying only a table saw at first, he will still need to buy many ancillary tools and accessories. He will need a good blade and probably a dado set. He will need some way to clean blades, especially if he practices on softwoods and scrap. He will need a dust mask, eye protection, and hearing protection. He will need some type of sawdust collection - perhaps a cyclone with a shop vac. He will also need wood, sandpaper, and finishing supplies (say, some type of brush-on or spray can finish to start). It is hard to imagine doing much without at least one basic chisel, which means that the OP would also need a honing guide and a sharpening stone or a flat surface with sandpaper. The basic needs that go with ONLY a table saw start to add up.

It is hard to know what tools you need to accomplish a given project. It takes time and learning, just to figure out what you need. Furthermore, as @Terry Q points out, "In woodworking, there is more than one way to accomplish something." Will the OP want to get into hand tools instead of power tools? Many woodworkers prefer them.

Does the OP really need an elaborate sharpening station if he doesn't have woodworking hand tools, or can you get by with something less to start?

Does the OP really need a compressor on Day 1? A compressor can be helpful for woodworkers who want to use nail guns, but I got by for decades with a hammer and nails. A compressor is also useful for spray finishes, but the OP might prefer an HVLP sprayer instead. A compressor is a handy tool, but it would be low on my list of "getting started" tools for woodworking.

SUMMARY:

* Master the safety aspects of each tool before you acquire the next one. You don't have to be super-skilled at using the tool, just safe. That goes for simple stuff, like chisels, too. A sharp chisel can hurt you badly if you don't pay attention.

* Don't try to buy a complete workshop full of tools at the start. You will increase your risk of serious injury, and you may find that you have a lot of unused tools, because your future work may not require them. Buy them as you need them.

* Try to choose projects at the start that require only one new tool at a time. Everyone learns to walk before they learn to run.

I hope this helps.
 
#31 ·
I'd be curious what type of woodworking you do before suggesting what to buy next. The power tools that I use most often would be...

1. Table saw
2. SCMS
3. Drill/Impact Driver
4. Router
5. Jointer
6. Planer
7. Drum Sander
8. Shaper
9. Bandsaw
10. Track Saw

If you don't have a good dust collection, look into that ASAP. Going from tool to tool, I'd go with a shop vac/dust cyclone combo. If you can, invest in a system at least 1500cfm and 4-6" ductwork.

Another big question is...while you are working on a project, which tool do you keep telling yourself "I really wish I had (insert tool name here)"
 
#32 ·
When I did my apprenticeship, my cabinetmaker had a try square with holes drilled down the blade. What a timesaver that was. I was looking for a commercial version so I wouldn’t have to drill all of those holes. Woodpeckers 641SS is out of production. I ordered the Woodraphic version, but they messed up in Korea and sent something else. Quality tools, worst customer service I’ve ever encountered. Not recommended!

So anyway I decided to make my own. Works famously, is much more versatile. The Kinex reference square keeps me square and is handy by itself.
 

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#33 ·
Clamps!!! Well maybe a hammer first. and then... Clamps!!!!
You can never have too many clamps!

I was gonna say a hammer, but maybe not number one. I've found myself using a block of wood or a wrench in place of a hammer many times. I'd say work space but that's not really a tool, so maybe my impact driver I use very often. My arc welder is very convenient to have. However, I could really use a vise.

Probably not a good person to ask. I've become accustomed to working with the few tools I do have for wood working that I probably don't even know what I truly need. Just bought my first set of forstner bits recently.
 
#38 ·
I have been using of late planer,handsaws and chisels chisels chisel.I am getting decent at sharpening them by hand but I do need to invest in some better stones for sure.I wish I could true out my hand planers been working on it (surface) and then the blades do not lend themselves to the hand sharpening not skilled enough to wide.
 
#41 · (Edited)
as a newie ...

I have been using of late planer, handsaws and chisels, chisels, and chisels. I am getting decent at sharpening them by hand, but I do need to invest in some better stones for sure. I wish I could true out my hand planers. .....been working on it a (flat) (surface) and then the blades do not lend themselves to the hand sharpening. I'm not skilled enough to (sharpen) wide (blades).

I have edited your post to improve clarity, including adding punctuation and missing words. For one thing, when you put the letter (r) on the word plane, it becomes a "planer" which is machine, not a hand tool, as in thickness planer. We need to use the proper terminology since it really does matter when asking questions. In this day and age of "speed" the use of abbreviations, when not done correctly will lead to confusion, since we really can not read your mind. Take the time to write the words out and use the correct punctuation and that will be appreciated by all who try to interpret your post.... just sayin'.



Now, back to your question/statement. When sharpening a wide plane blade, use a piece of glass large enough to hold a piece of wet/dry sand paper, typically 9" X 12" or so. A little soapy water squirted on the glass will hold the sandpaper in place while you sharpen your chisels. It will also help to lubricate the blade as you sharpen it. The grit of paper you start with should be around 150, maybe 220 or so if the blade needs a major "overhaul". If not, use 320 to start with and progress all the way to 600 and even 1000 for a mirror finish. To maintain the proper angle, typically about 30 degrees use a block of wood and a roller wheel. Jigs can be found on You Tube for ideas OR you can buy a ready made one:




 
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