Nothing but plywood so far, how to edge trim? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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  • 1 Post By gj13us
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-12-2016, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Nothing but plywood so far, how to edge trim?

So far, everything I've made has been for my shop and made of one form of plywood or another (including a few mdf items).

I'm about to make a small medicine cabinet - again out of plywood, but I would like to be able to cover the plywood edges so it looks better.

I haven't seen any thing at my local box stores but perhaps I'm not looking for the right item?

Do I look for and buy specific edge trim or do I cut my own with my table saw?

Thanks as always in advance
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-12-2016, 12:28 PM
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I use the table saw to rip thin pieces (1/4"or so) from a 1x and tack/glue those to the edges. I make the main parts 1/4" smaller to accommodate for the finishing strips. E.g., the shelves would be 1/4" shallower, etc.

Since 3/4" plywood is about 1/32" less than 3/4", and 1x lumber is 3/4", after the finishing strips are attached I plane them flush.
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-12-2016, 12:29 PM
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You should be able to find edge banding as in the link below in various colors/woods. Or you can simply cut hardwoods strips and glue them on.

http://www.menards.com/main/kitchen/...ype=storeItems
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-12-2016, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thx - I think cutting hardwoods is above my skill set at the moment, I thought there might be specific size strips to match I could just buy and cut on my TS - the strips iron on I guess and seem to be a better option for my skill lvl.
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-12-2016, 04:57 PM
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This is a simple step once you get into it.
There are many ways to do it. I envision your shelving to be less than 3/4" thick. Small medicine cabinet shelving might be only 1/2" thick.
Small little moldings are sometimes called Beauty Molds.
They are made to cover the edges of plywoods or used as decorative trim.
You can make your own or buy ready-made beauty mold.
Pine is probably the most popular. This molding is sold in solid wood or plastic.
If you're painting it won't matter, but of course the plastic type won't accept a stain.
If your mold is wider than your boards edge, center it, glue it and then plane down flush after it dries.
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If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #6 of 11 Old 05-12-2016, 05:07 PM
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and . . . if you want to be happy with your edge trim two years from now, do not use any 'self stick' stuff.

use a purchased trim, or even veneer, if you don't want to slice off your own, and real live wood glue.

there's flat stuff to buy, and edge stuff - wraps around two sides. eliminates one side of the planing/sanding/trimming thing...

iron-on / press-on = peel off / fall off (later)

don't ask, I gave that piece away.....
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post #7 of 11 Old 05-13-2016, 08:16 PM
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I cut thin strips on the table saw and leave them slightly proud of the face of the plywood. Once the glue is dry, I trim the edges with a real simple jig for the router table and a flush trim bit. Here is the jig.
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post #8 of 11 Old 05-16-2016, 12:41 PM
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There is a router bit set from MLCS called hide the ply:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...t=hide+the+ply
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-16-2016, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all - too bad I'm routerless at the moment :(
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-16-2016, 07:22 PM
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I've always just cut a strip on the tablesaw and glued it on. Never had one fail yet.
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The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #11 of 11 Old 05-16-2016, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan50hrl View Post
I've always just cut a strip on the tablesaw and glued it on. Never had one fail yet.
Yah think I'm going to try this since I made a sacrificial fence anyway - might as well sacrifice it LOL
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