Noob here and building my first entertainment cabinet - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-06-2014, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Noob here and building my first entertainment cabinet

I'm building a gift for my wife with the plan to use dowels. I need help deciding how far apart the dowels should be set. I have 1" edge glued spruce because that's what is avail in my area and it is already sanded. My dowels that I purchased are 5/16'' and 1 1/2'' long. How many inches apart should I put the dowels? I have a "jointcrafter" jig I bought from menards for this. I have a feeling I'm going to be drilling A LOT of holes LOL...


My Plan is to cut a back piece and sides that are sandwiched between the top and everything will have the dowels in it for strength. The box is 35'' Long x 14" high and 2' wide. This will allow me to fit my DVD player and my wii in the box with my A/V receiver. I am putting the box under my 8' x 8' screen for my projector My wife found some cabernet stain samples we will use on some of the scrap wood I plan to cut off.

Here's my design I made up in sketchup.











One last question. For my table saw should I buy a 10'' 80 tooth saw blade? I want to make fine cuts on this and have OK table saw.. *pro tech* (lol)
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-06-2014, 10:29 PM
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Entertainment cabinet construction

I would space your dowels about every 1 1/2" apart. As far as your table saw blade, it depends on what you intend to cut mostly. 80 teeth is a lot for a rip cut so I would look for something in the Forrest Blade line like the Woodworker II.

Looks like a nice project and I would be interested in seeing pictures of the construction and final piece.

Good Luck,

Jack
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post #3 of 10 Old 10-06-2014, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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thanks Jack I'll keep you updated .. Btw why not an 80 tooth blade? Menards said 80 tooth for fine work work cutting. I shop at mendards and to me .. $50 is A LOT of money for a saw blade. those woodworker II blades were over $100!!

Last edited by Roguehk; 10-06-2014 at 11:18 PM.
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post #4 of 10 Old 10-07-2014, 12:31 AM
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On rip cuts down hardwoods, you're cutting with the grain so there isn't as much of a benefit with fine blades over combo blades there. More teeth means more work pushing the wood through, and to little benefit in this case. On the other hand, it's plywoods and crosscutting hardwoods that benefit more from finer tooth blades because those woods/cuts are more prone to tearing out fibers.

If you don't have/want a fine tooth blade, there are a few other ways to get fine cuts in a pinch. Support the back of a piece with a sacrificial board when crosscutting. Blue painters tape over a cut may hold those top fibers down. You can also draw your cutting line and pre-sever the fibers with a knife and ruler prior to making the cut.
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post #5 of 10 Old 10-07-2014, 01:09 AM
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saw blades

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Originally Posted by Ends of the World View Post
On rip cuts down hardwoods, you're cutting with the grain so there isn't as much of a benefit with fine blades over combo blades there. More teeth means more work pushing the wood through, and to little benefit in this case. On the other hand, it's plywoods and crosscutting hardwoods that benefit more from finer tooth blades because those woods/cuts are more prone to tearing out fibers.

If you don't have/want a fine tooth blade, there are a few other ways to get fine cuts in a pinch. Support the back of a piece with a sacrificial board when crosscutting. Blue painters tape over a cut may hold those top fibers down. You can also draw your cutting line and pre-sever the fibers with a knife and ruler prior to making the cut.
I agree and in addition rip cuts with very fine tooth blades tend to generate more heat which is not a good thing. I'm not suggesting that you buy a Forrest blade if you think they are too expensive but, a good 40 -60 tooth combination rip/crosscut blade might serve you better on a table saw. If this were for my miter saw I would go with a high tooth count since it's only used for cross cutting.

Jack
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post #6 of 10 Old 10-07-2014, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacko9 View Post
I agree and in addition rip cuts with very fine tooth blades tend to generate more heat which is not a good thing. I'm not suggesting that you buy a Forrest blade if you think they are too expensive but, a good 40 -60 tooth combination rip/crosscut blade might serve you better on a table saw. If this were for my miter saw I would go with a high tooth count since it's only used for cross cutting.

Jack
I use an Irwin Marples 50 tooth combo blade in my table saw. It works pretty well and not really expensive.
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-07-2014, 11:46 AM
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I have a delta 60tooth blade. it does perfectly well for cross cutting veneer plywood. 80 tooth is great too Im sure. I cant justify a $100 blade, blades like those get sent out to be resharpened which saves money in the long run Im sure, but for my use, its easier to just buy a new blade.

what are the dowels for? joining the planks? not really required, a glue joint will hold MORE than fine. but if you want them for assembly alignment, decorative accent, or peace of mind, I cant imagine Id put one more than maybe 1 per foot? maybe less... like 3 on the whole lengths (ends and center) unless its a decorative choice, then thats completely up to you.

glue a butt joint together with some scrap, clamp it, and let it dry. 3 internet points if you can break it apart. glue is strong stuff. the dowels wont be needed for strength.
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-07-2014, 11:53 AM
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dowel joints

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I have a delta 60tooth blade. it does perfectly well for cross cutting veneer plywood. 80 tooth is great too Im sure. I cant justify a $100 blade, blades like those get sent out to be resharpened which saves money in the long run Im sure, but for my use, its easier to just buy a new blade.

what are the dowels for? joining the planks? not really required, a glue joint will hold MORE than fine. but if you want them for assembly alignment, decorative accent, or peace of mind, I cant imagine Id put one more than maybe 1 per foot? maybe less... like 3 on the whole lengths (ends and center) unless its a decorative choice, then thats completely up to you.

glue a butt joint together with some scrap, clamp it, and let it dry. 3 internet points if you can break it apart. glue is strong stuff. the dowels wont be needed for strength.
I assumed that you were using the dowels to join the box together at the corners not, edge joining the length of the glue joint?

If your using the dowels for alignment of an edge joint, then first of all I don't think they are necessary but a few along the length might assist your alignment (not one every few inches like I mentioned above).

Jack
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-07-2014, 02:55 PM
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even the boxed edges... Id glue it and shoot 3 finish nails into it. and the nails are quite optional in the grand scheme of things.

Not saying NOT to use dowels, I have nothing against them, but aside from all the drilling, I think putting too many could make it HARDER to assemble. lining up 20 some dowels over a 2foot span, if those dowels are even slightly off, you'll have to force it together. The more dowels, the more likely that 1 will be a slight oops.
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-07-2014, 07:48 PM
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dowling

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even the boxed edges... Id glue it and shoot 3 finish nails into it. and the nails are quite optional in the grand scheme of things.

Not saying NOT to use dowels, I have nothing against them, but aside from all the drilling, I think putting too many could make it HARDER to assemble. lining up 20 some dowels over a 2foot span, if those dowels are even slightly off, you'll have to force it together. The more dowels, the more likely that 1 will be a slight oops.
A simple fixture that I first saw was in a James Knenov book where he used a hardwood 1x2 board and drilled holes in it at the spacing he wanted on his drill press. He used this simple fixture to index his dowel holes across display wood cabinets. You might be able to find his books at your local library.

Jack
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