Non Woodworker Needs wood filling advice - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-15-2014, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Non Woodworker Needs wood filling advice

I'm restoring a 1917 Maxwell and due to my inability to do woodwork I purchased a ready made body for my chassis. It was made for another car and never used. My problem is the body was made for a fancier vehicle and I'd like to fill in the decorative routing designs on the sides. I've used West system epoxies before with good results. Would West epoxy mixed with sawdust be a good choice to fill in my body sides?

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Howard Dennis
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-15-2014, 12:54 PM
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We have an introduction section where you can say a few words about yourself. If you fill out your profile in your "User Control Panel", you can list any hobbies, experience, occupation, or if retiredÖfrom what, or other facts. You can also list your general geographical location which would be a help in answering some questions. In doing that your location will show under your username when you post.

When you say "Fill in the sides", what do you mean? What exactly needs to be filled?










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post #3 of 14 Old 06-15-2014, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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The body as I purchased it has 5 box designs routed into each side. This is a modern woodworkers way to fancy up these style bodies and was rarely if ever seen originally. I'd like to return it to a more period correct flat side look. It will be painted over so the fill will not be visible.

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post #4 of 14 Old 06-15-2014, 01:18 PM
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That seems like a very big area to fill if you are thinking of filling in the whole side...like pouring it on. If you are thinking of just filling the grooves, there would be a lot of edge work to worry about lifting, or peeling back. I would think of just adding a thin layer of wood, or plywood on top of the sides.

Will this sit outside or be subject to the weather?






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post #5 of 14 Old 06-15-2014, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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I only want the routed in boxes to disappear so it appears as if they were never there. I plan on painting it olive drab to replicate a WWI vehicle so show car finishes are not my goal. It will be garaged so the elements are not likely to harm it.

Howard Dennis
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-15-2014, 02:21 PM
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Like the other guy said, a thin layer of plywood over the whole side is probably your best bet. Beyond that, if you plan on painting it I'd go with Hondo to dill it in. Epoxy mixed with sawdust would probably get crazy expensive
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-15-2014, 03:18 PM
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This is the other guy again. Is the pattern a groove that needs filling, or is it a raised moulding, that would require the area outside and inside filled?






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post #8 of 14 Old 06-17-2014, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Cabinetman, sorry I didn't answer you sooner, the forum didn't notify me I had a new reply. Yes, it is a groove 1/2 inch wide, very shallow at the sides and tapering to 1/8 inch deep in the middle of the groove. If I do fill it with epoxy, what would be the better filler, coarse sawdust or wood flour?

Howard Dennis
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-17-2014, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hddennis View Post
Cabinetman, sorry I didn't answer you sooner, the forum didn't notify me I had a new reply. Yes, it is a groove 1/2 inch wide, very shallow at the sides and tapering to 1/8 inch deep in the middle of the groove. If I do fill it with epoxy, what would be the better filler, coarse sawdust or wood flour?

Howard Dennis
I would take a router and and a straight edge, and rout a square bottom groove. Then cut some solid wood to fit into the groove. Then Bondo whatever gaps there is on the edges, and then sand flat.

You could do two long grooves (for the top and bottom), and connecting grooves.






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post #10 of 14 Old 06-17-2014, 11:24 AM
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Is it not possible to fill the grooves with Bondo if they are only 1/8" deep?

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #11 of 14 Old 06-17-2014, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
Is it not possible to fill the grooves with Bondo if they are only 1/8" deep?
I disagree. If you read the post, the suggestion was to rout a square bottom groove, and fill it with a wood strip. If you've used Bondo, you would know that it will fill cracks 1/32" (if that's what it is) wide and however deep.






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post #12 of 14 Old 06-17-2014, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
I disagree. If you read the post, the suggestion was to rout a square bottom groove, and fill it with a wood strip. If you've used Bondo, you would know that it will fill cracks 1/32" (if that's what it is) wide and however deep.






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I could respond to this but I don't think I will.

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post #13 of 14 Old 06-17-2014, 05:07 PM
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What a great project car! Glad you are removing the boxes. I think they would look like crap with the fenders on. If they conformed to the fender some how... maybe it would look O.K.

To get the most consistent finish I'd stick with Cabinetman's suggestion. Wood can look perfectly smooth until you mix it with a plastic. Your putty could show through the finish. Same with your idea using epoxy mixed with wood flour or saw dust, chips or what ever. I would route using a straight edge and fill with strips of the same type of wood glued in the grooves with Tight-bond III. Sand flush, fill any tiny voids with saw dust mixed in Tight-bond III. Be sure it stands slightly proud of the surface and sand flat.

Try to find a wood worker wiling to help you if you are not familiar with wood working. Working wood is much different than metal. An experienced wood worker will understand the quirks and you will likely end up with a better outcome.

Last edited by regesullivan; 06-17-2014 at 05:12 PM.
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-18-2014, 05:13 PM
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The problem with any kind of filler is that wood moves with changes in humidity and filler would likely crack. If you wanted to attempt a fill I would use one of the flexible automotive fillers like Evercoat Poly-Flex. It's what autobody guys use for flexible plastic bumpers and panels. You would need to sand the routed grooves down to about 80 grit to get good adhesion.

Dave in CT, USA
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