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post #1 of 8 Old 12-04-2018, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Newbie needs jointer help

Hi all,

I'm new to using a jointer and am having some issues. I have a 6" Delta bench jointer and have followed all the setup directions (90 degree fence, parallel feed tables, blade adjustment, etc.). I've watched a few YouTube videos on how to feed boards through. I'm using downward force with my left hand once the board gets to the outfeed table and just pushing the rest through with my right (while still maintaining slight pressure against the fence). My problem is that the board I'm facing (in this case a 4 1/2" wide x 4/4 piece of oak) is getting tapered on the side I'm facing. Before I ran it through the jointer it was reasonably flat. No twists or bows. It just needed cleaning up because it was rough cut. Now the faced side is tapered. The one side of the board is now only about 3/4" of an inch thick and the jointer doesn't touch the last 4 inches or so of the board (it's about a 28" long piece) which is still 4/4 thick.

I thought I was doing the whole feed thing correctly but obviously not.

Any help/suggestions are very much appreciated!
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-04-2018, 07:03 PM
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that's pretty much how a jointer works, if you don't have the long edge against the fence
the proper tool to use, for this application, is a thickness planer
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-04-2018, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Ogre View Post
that's pretty much how a jointer works, if you don't have the long edge against the fence
the proper tool to use, for this application, is a thickness planer
So even if both faces of the board are rough cut, use a planer to get the faces smooth? I thought you were supposed to get one side on the jointer first?
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-04-2018, 07:56 PM
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I'd suggest checking your outfeed table to ensure that it's at the same height as the knives. It it's a bit lower, the board will tip downward slightly at some point when it's past the knives, lifting the remaining portion of the board and possibly leaving some of it untouched as you described.

If your outfeed table isn't adjustable, you'll have to set the knives to be at the same height as the outfeed table.

And you're correct; you typically surface one face of the board on a jointer, then follow with a thickness planer to get a uniform thickness.
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-05-2018, 04:10 PM
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Tapering a board on a jointer is a common problem. What happens is that if you have a slightly bowed board and joint it with the convex side down you establish a reference surface. By the time you take enough passes to get a full length cut the board is tapered in thickness. I hate when that happens. Better to have the concave side down and cut from the ends toward the middle. If the board is shorter than the jointer beds you can do a full pass, if not you have to go half way then turn the board around and come from the other side. Once a straightedge tells you the board is flat you can do a full pass to clean it up.

BTW, the correct technique is to put pressure on the infeed side and once the board is past the cutter head transfer your weight to the outfeed table. The outfeed is the reference surface.

A jointer is one of the most difficult woodworking machines to master.

Dave in CT, USA
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-05-2018, 07:07 PM
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I found through experience that if I run a board through the jointer in only one direction that it does become wedge shaped. Therefore, I always swap ends on each pass. You want to make the last pass down grain for smoothness.


I suppose that a person with really good jointer skills could keep the wedge from happening.



George
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-05-2018, 10:31 PM
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I learned how to set up a jointer by watching this video. In my opinion, it is the best video.


Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #8 of 8 Old 12-06-2018, 09:55 AM
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Even with perfectly set knives the potential for tapering a board is always there. It's a matter of technique. As George mentioned, going at it from both directions can help a lot, but that's going to cause tearout in the direction against the grain. Most times on a long board I'll use a jack plane to bring the face close to flat then clean it up with a single light pass on the jointer. I lose less wood that way than trying to guess how to balance a bowed, cupped, or twisted board on the jointer. A straight edge and winding sticks are part of that process.

Dave in CT, USA
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