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post #1 of 9 Old 04-25-2013, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Newbie needs help

Hi im a newbie when it comes to working with wood , what im needing help with is i have 6 small sheets of plywood left in my new house i just moved into and i was thinking about making them into a cuboid shape box and then do sum funky designs on just make it into something cool looking but im not sure what would be the best way going about making the box . i want the box to possibly not have like screw or nail visible as im looking for a smooth finish someone said i should try wood glue or tiger glue but thought id ask and see if anyone else could possibly give me a few more ideas as id like to get it started asap as i have some free time at the moment ,hope use can help :)
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-25-2013, 06:28 PM
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What tools do you have? I think what you are referring to as tiger glue is gorilla glue. I wouldn't recommend using that. It makes a nasty mess because it foams up as it dries. I would just stick with any carpenters glue and nails.
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-25-2013, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by B2345 View Post
tiger glue
There are way cheaper and probably better sources of super glue than that stuff.
For super glues I like these people:
http://www.starbond.com/
Good products decent prices and they are always willing to offer technical advice.

However as a general woodworking glue super glues are not the best. They definitely have their uses but as an all around super duty glue Good old Titebond is better than anything I've ever heard of or used. OT's better than epoxy, flexible so it's got advantages over resourcinol, I think it's way stronger than plastic resin glue, and hot glues.
Titebond. It's the shizz

If you mean gorilla glue treat that crap like the worthless garbage that it is.

Gorilla glue was invented as a glue for hot tropical teak and IPE wood assembly where humidity is so high it interferes with most glues. The stuff actually benefits from the moisture. However in that application it was ultimately a failure. It was a failure because the stuff is not strong, doesn't establish a very good bond with wood, and the joints fail along the glueline well before the wood substrate does.

But Marketing (the scum of the earth) was not going to waste all those R&D dollars and just shelve it. NO-SIREE_U_BOB they put themselves together a pack of falsehoods (commonly known as howling bald faced lies), fancy claims, a groovy package and sold it to us.

If you want very strong joints with no fasteners showing AND can tolerate some internal structure you can square up some 2-by stock and use that inside the corners and even screw through it to the ply - just don't use screws that are so long they pierce the outside.

Hey~!!! It's a hobby~!! It's not supposed to make sense.

Last edited by Cliff; 04-25-2013 at 06:53 PM.
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-25-2013, 08:21 PM
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If you mean gorilla glue treat that crap like the worthless garbage that it is.
Cliff, don't hold back - tell us how you really feel.

On the serious side, I agree Gorilla glue and other urethane based glues are not as strong as good old yellow PVA glues, like Titebond I, II or III.

In addition the urethane glue expands as it cures, and if the pieces are not clamped well, the glue will push the faces apart.

For the original poster wanting to make a shape, this can be challenging and an expanding glue will just add to headaches.

If the original poster can make clean cuts so there are no gaps, then Titebond I may be the easiest to work with. Rub the joints back and forth a few times and you may be able to get the joint to hold without clamping. You need to leave it to set before applying any stress.

Segmented woodturners sometimes use Titebond I in this manner to make the multiple segment assemblies for a ring of a segmented bowl.
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-25-2013, 09:49 PM
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The idea of glue only makes me cringe.

That maybe because I'm a structural carpenter. That being said I use structa-floor (chipboard flooring) and other fabricated boards all the time. What holds them together - glue.

I have a woodturning club meeting tonight. Our president has rated number 2 in Australia on a few occasions I'm told for segmented turning. As Dave said, he glues the pieces together - no clamps. He says he rubs the pieces together so there are no air bubbles and just lets it dry. He still brings pieces in he turned years ago.

Another option would be dowel or biscuit and glue.

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post #6 of 9 Old 04-27-2013, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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So would u say wood glue would be fine ?? o also nother quick questing was contoplating my put a pc into the box if it loos ace so would wood glue be the wrong thing t use if i do end up doing that ?

Last edited by B2345; 04-27-2013 at 04:54 PM.
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-27-2013, 05:54 PM
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If it is glued well with good joint it should be fine.

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post #8 of 9 Old 04-27-2013, 06:13 PM
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So would u say wood glue would be fine ?? o also nother quick questing was contoplating my put a pc into the box if it loos ace so would wood glue be the wrong thing t use if i do end up doing that ?
Yes wood glue would be fine. I wouldn't recommend enclosing your PC in a box. The electronic components are very temperature sensitive so the unit needs a lot of ventilation. Enclosing it would cut down on the ventilation.
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-27-2013, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
Yes wood glue would be fine. I wouldn't recommend enclosing your PC in a box. The electronic components are very temperature sensitive so the unit needs a lot of ventilation. Enclosing it would cut down on the ventilation.
Yes definitely would want to ensure good ventilation top and sides and a vented or partially open back.

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