Newb lost in Sea of choices for 10" rip blade - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-04-2018, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Newb lost in Sea of choices for 10" rip blade

Hello all, I decided to sign up here because I have hit paralysis by analysis on researching a rip blade for my table saw. I started out on the cheap and have a 15 amp Craftsman portable table saw which fits my purpose fine so far. After a couple months I have realized I need a good rip blade as that is what I'm using the saw for 99% of the time. I was leaning towards the Freud 30 tooth thin kerf rip, but it seems to be limited to 1" wood. I work with reclaimed 2" hemlock from a factory floor built in the mid 1800s so it is probably a bit denser than Modern wood. What is the recommendation for a "glue line" 10 rip either 24 or 30 tooth blade for a semi underpowered table saw? I have ripped the 2" hemlock but have gotten jagged teeth mark and occasional burn even if I feed slowly.

I apologize as this question is probably asked all the time. Thank you in advance...
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-04-2018, 09:02 PM
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I have had a Freud 24T Glue Line Rip thin kerf (red Teflon coated) blade for quite a few years now. I used it this summer to resaw 4/4 3" wide maple on my 15 amp BT3000, but it's a belt driven saw, not a direct drive unit. The cut only required a light sanding for gluing up. The cut pieces were a bit too thin to run through the jointer.

Your saw is probably using a universal type motor (like a router motor) and could benefit from all the amperage it can get. A 20 amp. circuit with 12 ga. wiring all the way to the motor will improve its performance. I did this with my saw almost 25 years ago and it helped with bogging on thick cuts. Big dado setups don't even affect it.

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Last edited by Jim Frye; 01-04-2018 at 09:11 PM. Reason: added blather
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-05-2018, 12:07 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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thin kerf for an underpowered saw!

I use a 24 tooth Freud thin kerf for ripping 2" and over. I use a Freud 50 tooth thin kerf for ripping 1" and less. My saw makes about 3 HP on 220 volts and is a direct drive induction motor, no brushes. Great saw from the late '80's by Craftsman, a 12" capacity but I use 10" blades.

When a saw slows down from lack of power, it is not cutting at it's designed RPM and may burn the wood. There's not a whole lot you can do except back off on then feed rate OR make 2 passes at 1/2 depth.

If you want a great portable saw that will rip all day long look into the HD Skil worm drive table saw:

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-05-2018 at 12:12 AM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-05-2018, 12:35 AM
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I also use a red Freud Glue Line Rip blade, just the full kerf version. I get great cuts in 4/4 hard maple. If I get any burning Ill make the cut about 1/64 wide and then a quick pass for final dimension. I had cut enough maple this way to glue up 23 panels without doing anything further to those cut edges. When I do get some burning I typically need to clean the blade and then it cuts like new again.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-05-2018, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your thoughts! I'll give the 24T thin kerf a go and see how it works out!

Edit: could you post the model number? I see a 30T glue line and 24T heavy and thin kerf, but neither 24T are listed as "glue line"

LM72 or LU87?

Sorry to be such a noob...

Last edited by coastalconn; 01-05-2018 at 01:11 AM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-05-2018, 06:24 AM
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Here's the blade I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works well for me. Less deflection that thin kerf blades.
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-05-2018, 09:02 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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This is my blade 10 in Freud Diablo, 24 tooth

Quote:
Originally Posted by coastalconn View Post
Thanks for your thoughts! I'll give the 24T thin kerf a go and see how it works out!

Edit: could you post the model number? I see a 30T glue line and 24T heavy and thin kerf, but neither 24T are listed as "glue line"

LM72 or LU87?

Sorry to be such a noob...
https://www.amazon.com/D1024X-Diablo...+inch+24+tooth

The thin kerf line in Freud is named Diablo. The full kerf blades are obviously thicker and for an underpowered saw won't work as well because they have to clear out more material. Thin kerfs may not be as stiff, but they cut just fine, unless you push them too hard and too fast.

You are pushing the limits of that cheap Craftsman saw, trying to cut 2" or more hardwood. You need a more powerful saw, like a used cast iron contractor type with the motor hanging out the rear. That's what I started out on it lasted for 40 years, and even then I used it for parts, it still worked OK.

The 30 tooth blades are the Industrial line and will be full kerf. I have a bunch of full kerf blades, but I don't really need them. I have a 12" 5 HP Powermatic 68 that will rip 3" all day long. I haven't had a need to do that for years, so it just sits unused. It uses only full kerf blades with a 1" arbor. It is scary powerful, another reason it's not used. If you get a kickback on that saw you may end up in the ER.
On less powerful saws, you can stall the motor and reach for the OFF switch with one hand. It's never a good thing when the blade jams on the rear of the blade.

Ripping any lumber on the table saw requires that the splitter or riving knife be installed to prevent kickbacks. You Tube has examples of kickbacks in action.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-05-2018 at 09:51 AM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-05-2018, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all your help. I ended up ordering the industrial 24t thin kerf.. http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/...oduct/LU87R010

I am still new enough that saws scare me so I keep all safety gear on and use a push stick...
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