The 3 stages of Woodworking are:
1. Design drawings, plans or concepts, including layout.
2. Execution or building and assembling
3. Finishing with wiped, brushed or a sprayed application
Hand Tool Recommendations:
Just get the basics and a "better" quality rather than the best at first. A few hammers and mallets, chisels, hand planes, hand saws, some drill bits and Forstners if possible, rather than spades, augers are fine for a hand brace. I don't recommend an eggbeater hand drill, although I have quite a few, they stay in the drawer out of harm's way. When I have a procedure to execute, I think "Power Tool" right away and then if there is no solution, I come back to hand tools, but that's just me.
Battery Power Tools
These have about taken over the corded tool market and there is not a function I can think of that is not available in a battery power tool. I was just at a very large Industrial Tool supplier today looking for a 2+ HP corded router. They had only Porter Cable, Bosch and Festool. No Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee or Hitachi..... WHY? "We only carry what sells"
Power Tool Recommendations:
If you buy lumber that is already surfaced on all four sides, known as S4S, then you will be fine with a table saw and no need for a jointer or planer. Your table saw processes will be cutting material straight, to square it, angles or miters, making rabbets or grooves. There are molding head attachments, but they are for more advanced work. Your choice of the Rigid 4512 is good and has a good warranty. New or used either is fine. A well equipped shop will have a good table saw with plenty of support on the outfeed and either side.
Track saws have their fans, and there are many makes and models. I have one of the best, a Festool TS75, and all the tracks, but have yet to use it. It requires measuring twice to set the track parallel with an edge and I find that most annoying as compared to setting the fence on the table saw one time and "Let her rip" as many pieces as are required ...one setting does it. However, I have ripped many a 4 X 8 plywood sheet in the driveway, using a straight edge and a circular saw. A well equipped shop MAY have a track saw.
A Radial Arm Saw aka RAS, or a chop saw or a sliding compound miter saw AND a table saw with a sled will all make accurate miter cuts. A well equipped shop will have them all.
A router table or bandsaw would be my next recommendation based on the type of work you want to do. If you see curved pieces of furniture in your future, then it's the bandsaw. A router table will make edge treatments in the 1000's, grooves and rabbets as well. A well equipped shop will have both.
Drill presses are kinda ignored, but a very useful tool. To get perfectly vertical holes there is no better way. Whether it's wood or metal makes no difference. It's one of the tools that works well in either material. A mortising attachment is a cheap alternative to a stand alone mortising machine. A well equipped shop may have several, each set up for different operations.
Rough Sawn Lumber
If you want to save money in the long run by using rough sawn lumber, then you will need a jointer and a planer, usually purchased in separate machines. A jointer is needed to make a flat surface on one side of a rough board AND to create a straight and square edge on one side. You can edge joint with a table saw, but nothing can replace a jointer for making one surface flat and straight
. After that process you use a thickness planer to make the other rough surface, which is the top, straight, flat and parallel to the bottom. A jointer removes material from the bottom of a board, a thickness plane removes material off the top. A well equipped shop will have both.
Sanding is a whole 'nother topic, since you can use a block of wood and sandpaper, hand held ROS, Random Orbit Sander OR go all the way up to drum sanders and wide belt sander costing $10,000 or more. Myself, I'm at the 24" dual drum sander stage at about $2500. I will never get a wide belt sander unless it falls off the truck in front of me, since I can rent time on one from a friend.
Spraying finishes is also a whole 'nother topic and is quite technical, specialized equipment, air pressures, volumes, catalysts, viscosity, color matching, water based vs solvent based vs oil base..etc.. Best left for a separate discussion.