New Stair Treads are too shallow - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-02-2020, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Question New Stair Treads are too shallow

I bought an old house and I'm doing some updates. We removed some old carpeting from the main stair case and underneath are some old 2x4s. I decided to replace this old wood with some new oak treads and risers. After watching a ton of youtube demos, I start cutting up my pieces.
  1. I cut a ~.25" dado groove in the riser.
  2. I start to assemble a tread and a riser and there isn't enough overhang.
  3. The tread nose should over hang the riser by 3/4 to 1 1/4". Right now it's almost zero.


These are brand new oak treads from Lowes, about 11 1/2" deep. I'm attaching some photos and a computer model screen shot to explain the situation.


Any ideas on how to fix this so I have at least 3/4" overhang? Thanks for any advice you can offer.
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-02-2020, 03:13 PM
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You'll have to add to the back of the tread.
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post #3 of 9 Old 07-02-2020, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I was thinking of adding some strips of red oak to the back of the treads. I would stain them, and attach via wood glue and a few brads to the tread.

Does that sound right?

This is my first stair case so any advice would be welcome.
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-02-2020, 03:20 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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The least noticeable way is .....

Add a piece along the rear edge. Use another tread of the same lot or several, so the color and grain with match fairly well. Just glue on another 1 1/4", but saw them (rip) carefully so you get a good square and straight edge for gluing. No biscuits or dowels needed, it will be plenty strong, BUT if you are short on clamps for this many treads, predrill some holes, 3 or 4 per tread for some 2 1/2" Torx or square head deck screws.

OK, I was thinking of adding some strips of red oak to the back of the treads. I would stain them, and attach via wood glue and a few brads to the tread.



Don't add your own Red Oak, use more treads from Lowes. It will match almost perfectly.

For added strength you could glue on a backer underneath. I don't know if the building code permits this type of "fix" but if you use screws and a backer, no one will "fault" your attempt. It certainly won't pass code they way they are now.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-02-2020 at 03:23 PM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-02-2020, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I will post some pics once I'm finished.
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-02-2020, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeletalsabaki View Post
Thanks, I will post some pics once I'm finished.
If the treads are a minimum of 11 inches you do not need an overhang, per code.
Also, you need keep in mind that the first floor and second floor landings may need adjustment if your are replacing 1 1/2" thick treads with 3/4" thick treads. If the landing surfaces remain the same you will create too much of a variance from the first floor landing to the bottom step and from the top step to the second floor landing.

Last edited by JIMMIEM; 07-02-2020 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Add info
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-02-2020, 05:11 PM
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Maybe so, but ......

Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMMIEM View Post
If the treads are a minimum of 11 inches you do not need an overhang, per code.
Also, you need keep in mind that the first floor and second floor landings may need adjustment if your are replacing 1 1/2" thick treads with 3/4" thick treads. If the landing surfaces remain the same you will create too much of a variance from the first floor landing to the bottom step and from the top step to the second floor landing.




If they look like this, they look like a mistake, unfinished and they are ugly.
I would be adding the strip on the rear edge, if they were mine.




The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-02-2020, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post



If they look like this, they look like a mistake, unfinished and they are ugly.
I would be adding the strip on the rear edge, if they were mine.



Yes, this way does not look good. I was just telling the OP that his tread width does not require an overhang.
Lots of ways to remedy. I might go for a thinner riser. Just another option.
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post #9 of 9 Old 07-27-2020, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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So far so good!

Your advice worked really well. I'm happy with the treads.
My next challenge is the railing needs to terminate into the ceiling. I'm attaching some pics to show the situation at the landing, 8 steps up. My railing hand height is 36 inches high, which will drive it into the ceiling, as opposed the wall.

I have found some photos of how this is executed, but there don't seem to be any youtube videos on how this is done.

From the attached pics, it looks like I need to mount some railing to the ceiling. Join the ceiling piece with the long piece of the handrail.

Any advice on the connection between the two pieces of rail or mounting the rail to the ceiling would be appreciated!
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