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post #21 of 31 Old 04-24-2015, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbwood View Post
Sorry, if I do them on the router, what would be better/easier: to cut length first, or make the groove?
You won't have any tear out of the stiles. Where you might have a problem is the tenons on the rails. It might splinter the wood of the edges. On the rails you might allow a little extra width and joint it afterwards. Personally I make the stiles and rails a little extra in width and joint the door to a finished size after it is put together.
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post #22 of 31 Old 04-25-2015, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
You won't have any tear out of the stiles. Where you might have a problem is the tenons on the rails. It might splinter the wood of the edges. On the rails you might allow a little extra width and joint it afterwards. Personally I make the stiles and rails a little extra in width and joint the door to a finished size after it is put together.
Sorry, I do not understand how making rail longer will work.

I understand that if I make stiles a little longer can be fixed with sanding or something, but rails?
If the rail is longer, I cannot make the door width smaller?

Sorry, if it is sounds stupid.
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post #23 of 31 Old 04-30-2015, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, I have finally made the doors and drawer faces, and of course I did not do a good job on all of them.
Please see the picture.
This is the worst corner that came out, the others are much-much better.

How do I fix it? Sandpaper? Planer?

Another problem that I have some gaps here and there, what is the best way to cover it? I have Elmer's wood filler, but is there anything else?

Once I fix it I will be ready to finish.
I realize I need to sand all of it, but what sand paper do I use? should I do it all by hand, or use orbit/belt sander?

It will be light stain. Any advise staining, choosing polyurethane and applying it?

Thanks!
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post #24 of 31 Old 04-30-2015, 12:31 PM
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I think you need a spankin' J/K

Did you clamp your pieces together for a dry fit before final assembly? That should have shown the problem and it could have been fixed.

Just sayin'.

You might consider making a new door for this one.
Keep at it. The process will get easier as you gain experience.

Good luck.

Clamps! You can never have too many clamps!
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post #25 of 31 Old 04-30-2015, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I used clamps, the ones with metal ribbon, but overlooked the corner.
The cabinet I am making is for the bathroom that can live with some imperfection. I would re do it if I have all joints like this one, but that is the only one.
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post #26 of 31 Old 05-05-2015, 08:20 AM
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If the style was cut to the correct length then the rail wasn't fully seated. If the slight angle isn't noticed where the panel and rail meet, AND the rest of the door is square, then all you need to do to "fix" this would be to strike a line on the rail from style-to-style ends and use a hand plane to plane the edge even. No hand plane? you could try doing it on your table saw in one three ways 1) using sled, 2) saw with fence capacity to work with size of door, or 3) freehand, which may leave an uneven edge.

Small gaps can be filled. Best way is to use sawdust from your project. The really fine stuff you make by hand sanding, or finding in the bag on your sander. You can mix the sawdust with a little glue and use that, Or... Put a little glue in the joint, and then sand it while the glue is wet. If the gaps are large the filling may show when finished, if that's the case, consider painting your first set of doors.
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post #27 of 31 Old 05-06-2015, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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If the style was cut to the correct length ...
Thank you Terry!

I have borrowed the hand plane and did what I could, then sand it.

I think the problem was that I have used different pieces of wood to cut the rails and stiles. (on another door they were different thickness too, but I caught it in time. not in this case)
The door (actually this is the drawer face) is square, no problem here. And what is more important it is the same size as the other 3.


I used Elmer's wood filler, but next time will use the dust, I liked the idea.

I am slowly but surely getting to the end of my project, not perfect, but I guess it is ok for the first time.
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post #28 of 31 Old 10-17-2015, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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I just want to post here my first finished project. It has many flows, but it works and it looks better than I thought. I hope next time I will do better.

XK8V0467 by Genna B, on Flickr
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post #29 of 31 Old 10-17-2015, 09:13 PM
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Well, I am just a beginning woodworker (although an old one), but I would be please with that.
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post #30 of 31 Old 10-18-2015, 07:44 AM
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Really good job for a first serious project. You have learned some lessons along the way and the next project will go smoother and more easily. One recommendation it looks like you might have used a dark drying glue like titebond 3 and had trouble cleaning it up. First switch to either 1 or 2 and use it a little more sparingly, it is also a little thicker bodied and will not run quite as much. Clamp your pieces for about 1 hour + depending how warm it is. Clean your glue squeeze out with a chisel or scraper. This way the glue won't go into the pores of your wood, especially open styled wood like oak. There are other schools of thought on glue clean up but this is what I like to do.
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post #31 of 31 Old 10-19-2015, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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you might have used a dark drying glue like titebond 3 and had trouble cleaning it up.
Thanks!!!
I did not even know there are different kinds of wood glue. NOt sure what I was using, something from HomeDepot I had from other project. Otherwise I would use Elmer's School glue that I have in abundance at my house
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