New delta 36-725 13 amp contractor table saw - Page 8 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #141 of 232 Old 05-16-2014, 09:13 PM
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well, hopefully i have more luck, I returned my dewalt 7490 I bought 2 months ago but had not opened yet. picked up the delta.

FYI, theres a 10% off code good online 47000RRRRR9986R

Makes it about $512 + tax. buy online, pickup in store obviously so you dont pay shipping or anything.

gonna pick up a Delta 35-7657 blade for combo use.
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post #142 of 232 Old 05-17-2014, 01:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCT2
after doing some basic online searching I opted to get the 36-725 for my home shop. this model is exclusive to Lowes, you apparently cannot buy it anywhere else...at this time. store helped me load it; 200+ lbs. had to cut the box apart inside the car to unload. I had read Delta made changes so the instructions might not be entirely correct - and the advice to download the latest manual from their internet site. did that, both the printed and the internet pdf are equally wrong in the same spots. so you just have to toss & turn the pieces until you get the pre-drilled holes to line up, then you see how it goes together. first problem.... all assembled, plopped on the throat plate - blade is all the way to the left. contacted Delta, they claim they've never seen this problem, could not duplicate it, asked for more pictures then promptly abandoned the inquiry. so, I had the throat plate modified at my expense. get the blade calibrated, got the mitre block set up & calibrated, rip fence did not have enough adjustment....took a look, there's a plastic wear pad missing. so I called Delta customer service to get a replacement wear pad. hold on folks, you're not going to believe this but the bogus explanation went: them: "We'd have to rip one off a saw here." me: "You don't have repair parts?" them: "We have warranty parts but we can't...." their suggestion was to take it back. thought me: "and why on earth would I buy another?" bottom line, Delta declines all knowledge and culpability for the screw up, if you inquire, they drop your claim, they do not have repair replacement parts for this model (think about that for a minute....) and basically said "You're on your own." this is a company with a business model you might wish to avoid. I'm an engineer, I will find a way to make it work - but for buyers considering Delta, my recommendation would be to think again.
You are more than 100% correct that they should own and fix this problem. If there's any saving grace, the stock throat plate is crap. Make some of your own like we all have for this saw. You'll be much happier.
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post #143 of 232 Old 05-17-2014, 08:03 AM
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seems odd that the blade could be off like that?

I havent assembled mine yet, but this is cast iron isnt it? not like the holes can be in the wrong place... or the throat plate can be injected differently...

I kinda wonder if there was an error in assembly that may have caused the blade to be off the left like that?
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post #144 of 232 Old 05-17-2014, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry to hear your trouble. Can you post a pic of it down inside with the plate off? As for the fence maybe the store will swap you fences with their display model.
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post #145 of 232 Old 05-17-2014, 05:48 PM
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>>post a pic of it down inside with the plate off?
yup. that's what the Delta dude asked for. sent pix, no answer/response - days and daze.
they just do not do the 'customer' thing.

>>seems odd that the blade could be off like that?
yup. seem is regrets not all to accurate.....
had reason to be back at Lowes today so I went over to re-double-check the floor model.

I have really bad news for the Delta folks who have never seen this problem.

same issue on the floor model. the store had pulled the Phillips head screws "under" the throat plate and "reinstalled" the throat plate with the screws sticking up proud above the throat plate level. I was not surprised. this is the first throat plate I have ever seen that relies on clips and mystic gravity to stay in place....

re: "make your own throat plate as we owners do"
more info needed please!! I'm really not thrilled at having a steel throat plate loosely floating around.....

quite apparently they have multiple thousands of "defective" assemblies out on the market and all they can do is stick their head under the sand and repeat: "no nothing, know nothing, no nothing"

I have a chunk of HDPE plastic hanging about; whacked off a piece; tacked it to a sacrificial chunk of 2x4; reduced the thickness by nibble using my radial arm saw from the "stock" 1/4 inch aka 0.250" thickness to 0.125 aka 1/8 inch thickness.

the "as supplied" wear blocks are nominal thickness 0.082 and "who knows" what kind of plastic, mini-circles like a Lego block for "retention" in the holes.

positive / long term retention of that design?? ah,,, would not put too many donuts holes on that.

"glued" my HDPE be-faked-too-thick to the rip guide base cross member; handle lock down works, slightly higher 'engage point" but bottom line, 1/8 inch thick slider pads on the set screw adjust side will work.

_but_ 1/8 thick on _both_ adjusting set screw side _and_ handle lock down side not likely to work.

stay tuned....I'll post my experience / "fix'ems up"
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post #146 of 232 Old 05-17-2014, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Here's pic of how mine looks, if it's any help.
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post #147 of 232 Old 05-18-2014, 10:10 AM
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geltz61, that is how my blade position is also. It is not dead centered with the plate opening, but pretty close. I use zero clearance plates most or the time anyway. As far as the plate not being screwed down, I have owned a couple of table saws that used the same method without a problem.
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post #148 of 232 Old 05-18-2014, 11:21 AM
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geltz61 - thanks for the pix - it "looks" same as mine but obviously "somehow" the entire underside guts got pushed to one side.

Delta got the photo(s), said they could not replicate the problem and have no idea how it could happen.
they declined to provide any guidance on if I could loosen some flavor of bolts on the underside and move it over.

so I had the throat plate widened.
I'll likely need to make a 'more better' throat plate - plywood I presume?

my HDPE plastic patches are working out peachy keen. trued up the rip fence and it makes plenty of saw dust now....

the machine has a good "feel" to it - it would be nice if Delta paid a bit more attention to detail & parts quality.
- the button head bolts that hold the square tube for the rip fence to the angle iron - two of those snapped off - I replaced all with grade 8 hex bolts
(seems everything else on the machine is metric - but those button heads are 1/4-20.... go figger.)
- one of the rubber feet had a way out of tolerance thread and would only thread in about 3/4 inch - of course, its weird shouldered thing with big flat head, had to have the threads chased on that.

oh well - onward and upward.....
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post #149 of 232 Old 05-18-2014, 01:37 PM
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Any reason you didn't/don't return it and get a different saw?
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post #150 of 232 Old 05-18-2014, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCT2
geltz61 - thanks for the pix - it "looks" same as mine but obviously "somehow" the entire underside guts got pushed to one side. Delta got the photo(s), said they could not replicate the problem and have no idea how it could happen. they declined to provide any guidance on if I could loosen some flavor of bolts on the underside and move it over. so I had the throat plate widened. I'll likely need to make a 'more better' throat plate - plywood I presume? my HDPE plastic patches are working out peachy keen. trued up the rip fence and it makes plenty of saw dust now.... the machine has a good "feel" to it - it would be nice if Delta paid a bit more attention to detail & parts quality. - the button head bolts that hold the square tube for the rip fence to the angle iron - two of those snapped off - I replaced all with grade 8 hex bolts (seems everything else on the machine is metric - but those button heads are 1/4-20.... go figger.) - one of the rubber feet had a way out of tolerance thread and would only thread in about 3/4 inch - of course, its weird shouldered thing with big flat head, had to have the threads chased on that. oh well - onward and upward.....
A guy in the thread on Lumberjocks on this saw made a nice one out of composite decking with pics and explanation on making it. (The throat plate)
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post #151 of 232 Old 05-18-2014, 05:28 PM
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blade being off like that would throw off the fence ruler too wouldnt it?

I put mine together this afternoon. Ill admit the instructions were a bit vague... they say 70mm but they mean 72mm. the fence L brackets use some flat top screws, but the rear fence also uses 2 button screws that they dont mention.

In any case, not too hard to peice together the odd bits.

End result was pretty much perfect, I could measure a few hundreths on the blade, had to tweak the fence to get it lined up. And the 90 stop was well past vertical, but easy adjustments.

though infact, the most troublesome thing is that the wings sit a bit lower than the cast iron, couldnt raise it up any higher without grinding the holes.
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post #152 of 232 Old 05-19-2014, 03:26 PM
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>>why not take it back
I'm not that young. it's 200+lbs. it's in the basement. it's fully assembled. the store is not that close.
how hard can it be to 'adjust' that kind of thing....
shoudda, tho. would not buy a Delta replacement if I had. from what I saw on the floor model, there's more than one with this issue.

I have seen numerous remarks that 'the design she is a changing' - for eample my 'version du jour' came with five 1/4-20 button head screws - the rip fence square tube rail requires five of those. bauerbach's got more, and in different places. and my side leafs had not problems with getting them flush....

consistency&quality is very suspect on these model.

which make me suspicion that something of the design was changed and they're just using up all the old bits and pieces - regardless of whether it actually goes together right or not. actually, they likely never tried.

have done some serious house rehabs in my day, I'm familiar with the "disposable circular saw blade" concept; I've got the uneasy feeling we've bought into a $500-$600 disposable table saw. if anything breaks/wears out, getting parts could be quite a nightmare.

the off-center blade will/would/could foul up the rip fence scale. I hardly ever even think about using that scale tho - I always measure with a steel rule. the clear plastic 'indicator line' does have a left-right adjustment. no idea if the adjust range is sufficient.


curiously the tilt indicator line mount does not have an adjust - a screw & peg - and it's off by a half a division. need to poke into whether there is any 'internal' adjustment for that.

>>throat plate at Lumberjock - thanks for the lead, I'll check it out.
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post #153 of 232 Old 05-20-2014, 10:12 AM
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Last month after I purchased my 36-725 table saw I went online to Delta's Corp's web site. I wanted to check out the availability of replacement parts. Under , Service and Support , I entered 36-725. It came back , NO RESULTS FOUND. Knowing this was a new product and may not be listed yet, I called their help line and asked why the parts site did not list the 36-725. The reply I got was "we don't have parts yet". I asked what would I do if I needed a part? His reply, "If you talk to me, I have a number to call, and I might be able to get the part". Doesn't make me feel real confident about the company that made my saw! I purchased this saw to build 12 kitchen cabinets and a work island. It is working out fine, and as long as nothing breaks I should be able to get the job done. The blade on mine was true to the miter slots right out of the box, and the was centered in the throat plate. I did find what I believe to be a flaw in the fence that I will show in this thread later in the week when I can get some pictures. I bought this saw because my workplace is in a large carport and I needed to be able to wheel it in and out of a large cabinet. I am also limited by 120V service. This saw for most use is fine, but if I had the electric service and could use a stationary saw I would go with a Powermatic, or a mid price range Grizzly. I haven't heard too many negative things about parts and service with Powermatic or Grizzly. I will post later with the fence issue.
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Last edited by carverED; 05-20-2014 at 10:15 AM.
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post #154 of 232 Old 06-02-2014, 08:27 AM
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i've been pretty happy with my 36-725; i've had it for about a month now. it's done light duty cutting jobs right now, but has easily resawn construction grade 2x4 as well as rock maple. I have a Freud LU83R010 thin kerf combo blade on it.

It's way better than my first table saw which was a beat up 315 series Craftsman that i brought back to life and got some good use out of. This Delta still outperforms that Craftsman in all areas.

I sometimes wish I'd of spent the extra and gotten the Laguna or Grizzly that I was eyeing, but this has been more than sufficient for my weekend woodworking hobby.

I do worry that the lack of parts/accessories means it's still a "beta/we'll see how it does" product from Delta, and not a "we're backing this model/product for years to come" product from Delta.

Time will tell, I reckon.

Bottom line, if you're a serious woodworker, you're probably going to be too picky and this saw is never going to meet your expectations, but from my hobbyist perspective, if you put the saw together correctly, go through the alignment/fine-tuning guides on Lumberjocks, and keep a sharp/appropriate blade, and lastly, keep it tuned in general; then i think you'll have a solid saw at your disposal.

Just my thoughts on it thus far. :D (my only perspective is from using cheap ryobi table saws, "ok" craftsman 315 model saws, getting to use a unisaw back in college, and of course, this 36-725).

P.S., I asked my local Lowes about taking the HF coupon, they refused to take it, but instantly offered me 10% off instead, so that took care of tax in my area at least.

Last edited by replicant; 06-02-2014 at 08:30 AM.
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post #155 of 232 Old 06-08-2014, 12:52 PM
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Hey guys / gals,

New to the forum and have a pretty, well, stupid question. This is my first table saw that has a dust shroud and it is interfering with blade changes, causing me to angle the blade when removing and the arbor is scratching the side of blade. Am I just being silly or is there a special trick to this that I am missing?
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post #156 of 232 Old 06-08-2014, 02:42 PM
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Are you raising the blade all the way when you change it?
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post #157 of 232 Old 06-08-2014, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcanterbury View Post
Are you raising the blade all the way when you change it?
The blade is fully raised but the arbor is equidistant to the end of the shroud. Maybe a couple of pics will help.

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post #158 of 232 Old 06-08-2014, 08:47 PM
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I could be wrong, but it looks like a slight engineering oversight. Fortunately, it's not a serious situation, but the nuisance will remain as long as the shroud is where it is.
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post #159 of 232 Old 06-08-2014, 11:11 PM
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I scratched up the stock blade when I was removing it as well, and then discovered that if you lift up the riving knife lock out of the way you have plenty of room to turn the blade a bit and get it out pretty easily.


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post #160 of 232 Old 06-08-2014, 11:24 PM
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Actually, looking back at your pics, it looks like you did have it up. Did you do that before you changed the blade or after?
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