New Class Project- Bookcase I don't need! - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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New Class Project- Bookcase I don't need!

I'm hoping I'm not asking too many questions lately, If I am feel free to let me know...

So, my next class project is making a fairly large bookcase out of 3/4 ply and 1x4's adn 1x2's!

However, I neither need a bookcase or can fit it anywhere in my house!

The project uses 45 degree cuts (picture frame style) for the base with a bevel on 1 edge, 1/2" dado around the edges of the carcass as well as a top similar to the base - it's kind of a cap.

All our projects are glued together - so here's my questions...

I don't want to glue the carcass, the base or the decorative top but I still have to make the bookcase to get credit in the class. Once built, I want to re-purpose the carcass for a wall cabinet that I can use for the shop !

So instead of gluing it all together I'm thinking of either nails, screws or dowels to hold it together long enough to get credit for it.

Which do you think would be better/easier to take apart?

I'm thinking screws since they're easier and I'm used to working with them but I have nail guns (finish and brad) which make it much easier.

I'm open to other suggestions as well

Thoughts?

Thanks as always in advance

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post #2 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 12:17 PM
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see if the instructor will allow you to build it into 2 sections, that fit your personal needs better. he might give you extra credit?!?
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post #3 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 02:19 PM
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Ask the instructor whether an alternative project would be acceptable. Shop cabinets sound like a good alternative for a bookcase.

I have taken several classes where a given lesson (and homework assignment) was too simple, so I asked the instructor if I could work on my own homework assignment as a substitute. I always suggest an assignment that is more challenging than the class assignment, and they always (so far) say yes.
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post #4 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 04:47 PM
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Why not make the base with a recess that the book case carcass fits into? In a similar fashion, make the top with a molding around the underside of it so that it can sit on top of the carcass. These can be secured together with a few screws in unseen locations that can be removed later. I have a similar piece that could have set on a table, but ended up being hung on the wall.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/membe...curio-cabinet/
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post #5 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all,

I like the idea of the alternative and 2 section builds but, I don't have direct access to the instructor

It's an online course and it cost extra to be able to ask questions and have direct access to the instructor etc.. I chose to save the money since each project cost about $100 or so - I'm on a limited budget.

The way it works is: I get my lesson/project every Monday with a video. I download the video and project plans (cut list, skills, etc) and watch the video then do the tasks by stopping and starting the video after each task.

I'm leaning now towards brads to hold it all together and take a mallet to dismantle it when I'm done.

Thoughts?
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post #6 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 05:37 PM
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Is there any penalty for not following the plans?

I would just go ahead and make it in 2 pieces and "ask for fprgiveness" rather than "permission" with your explanation as stated above. If you do a fine job, it won't matter, at least if I were the instructor, which I was way back about 50 years ago. If you think outside the box and do a fine job, you should get rewarded, because it shows that you are thinking as well as your skill level. I'll back you up if there is an issue!`:smile3:

After all, in this case you are the client as well as the student..... just sayin' The client can make changes in the plans and often does in the real world and you can quote me.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

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post #7 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 07:33 PM
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Does the instructor physically see the project? If you can just put it all together loosely, I think screws would be the easiest. At first I was going to suggest dowels without glue but that seems like too much extra work if you are going to just turn it into something else later.

Good luck! Seems like a cool online course!
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post #8 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I would just go ahead and make it in 2 pieces ....
Thanks @woodnthings - I may take you up on the "Authority" said to..... LOL

It's actually 3 pieces - bottom or base, carcass and top.

Good ideas all and gave me an idea as well - I'm going to make each piece but put them together with brads and screws. I'm also going to make the carcass the size of the cabinet I need.

The plans call for 8 1/4" x 40" side panels and 8 1/4" x 29 1/4 bottom and top panels - I'm going to make them 8 1/4" x 36" sides, and 8 1/4 x 24 top and bottom.

The shelving uses peg board for spacing which I will use as well

Thoughts?
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post #9 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dent08 View Post
Does the instructor physically see the project? If you can just put it all together loosely, I think screws would be the easiest. At first I was going to suggest dowels without glue but that seems like too much extra work if you are going to just turn it into something else later.

Good luck! Seems like a cool online course!
No @Dent08 - we submit pictures of the finished projects so there is lots of room to fudge if one wishes.

I could have fudged a lot on my Coffee Table project, but IMO then I don't gain the knowledge or the experience I've paid for - it's kinda cheating myself isn't it?

What I'm going to do is make the project in 3 parts - each part will be held together to be taken apart. I'll put the 3 pieces together without gluing them and submit the photo.

That way, I will have completed the project with all the skills and tasks except for gluing and the finishing (which I've done on other projects anyway).
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post #10 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 07:57 PM
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The forum is here for anyone to ask as many questions as they need to. My question is I don't understand the project you are building. Do you have a rough sketch of what the project will be?
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post #11 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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The forum is here for anyone to ask as many questions as they need to. My question is I don't understand the project you are building. Do you have a rough sketch of what the project will be?
Thatnks @Steve Neul.

Here's a sketchup of the bookcase:



Here's a finished version:

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post #12 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 08:44 PM
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A cabinet like that I would start with the faceframe. Dowels would be good to use for the joints. Myself I have a gun that shoots a corrugated fastener. I put the faceframe to gether by toenailing a butt joint and use corrugated fasteners since the back doesn't show.

Then use the faceframe to get the dimensions of the box. The sides could be made wider than the box and rabbet the back edge to insert the back so it doesn't show. I think the trim you have at the top is too wide. I think it would look better if it were no wider than 1 1/2". I just use a nail gun and glue to fasten the sides and shelves to the faceframe. The holes are small and once finished it's very difficult to find the nail holes.

Then after the box is built, nails filled and sanded I would make the top as a separate piece and screw it to the box from the inside. Then apply the trim at the bottom with nails. Once the rest of the nails are filled and sanded it's ready for finishing.
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post #13 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
A cabinet like that I would start with the faceframe. Dowels would be good to use for the joints. Myself I have a gun that shoots a corrugated fastener. I put the faceframe to gether by toenailing a butt joint and use corrugated fasteners since the back doesn't show.

Then use the faceframe to get the dimensions of the box. The sides could be made wider than the box and rabbet the back edge to insert the back so it doesn't show. I think the trim you have at the top is too wide. I think it would look better if it were no wider than 1 1/2". I just use a nail gun and glue to fasten the sides and shelves to the faceframe. The holes are small and once finished it's very difficult to find the nail holes.

Then after the box is built, nails filled and sanded I would make the top as a separate piece and screw it to the box from the inside. Then apply the trim at the bottom with nails. Once the rest of the nails are filled and sanded it's ready for finishing.
Yah, thanks @Steve Neul,

only problem is I don't want/can't use the book case - I want to re-purpose the project into a cabinet without gluing so it's easy for me to take apart and re-purpose all the parts.-
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post #14 of 18 Old 11-28-2017, 09:21 PM
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You can make a cabinet where it can be broken down if you plan it. It's like this cabinet I made from my wife. It's too large to move around and even get it through doorways. Therefore I made it where it comes apart in pieces. I put tee nuts in the top and bottom of it and use bolts to fasten the sections together. The back is two sections where it is tongue and grooved together where it's held in by the top,bottom and sides. The center stile between the two doors has two dowels at the top and bottom which are not glued. Marked with a red line is where the cabinet separates for moving.
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post #15 of 18 Old 11-29-2017, 09:57 AM
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I am in the same class, except that my spouse is the instructor. I get a project assignment and build it without asking questions. At the end I get a pass/fail grade - my spouse uses it or not. After that, I get another assignment. The only differences are that my class never ends, and I never get a certificate or diploma. :-(
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post #16 of 18 Old 11-29-2017, 10:47 AM
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If I was taking it apart I would use screws where possible, Star bit deck screws most likely.
They hold good, and back out good, and come in colors that blend.


It's a lot of work to just take apart, besides you may feel differently when you complete it.
If it were me, I would make it someone's Christmas Gift.
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post #17 of 18 Old 12-03-2017, 12:03 AM
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Could you glue the bookcase together with hide glue, or some other glue that is easy to 'undo'? My understanding is if you heat hide glue it will come right apart, although I haven't done it myself. Then you could re-purpose the cabinet parts as you see fit after you get the course credit.
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post #18 of 18 Old 12-03-2017, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cmh512 View Post
Could you glue the bookcase together with hide glue, or some other glue that is easy to 'undo'? My understanding is if you heat hide glue it will come right apart, although I haven't done it myself. Then you could re-purpose the cabinet parts as you see fit after you get the course credit.
Thanks,

I recently had another project that I screwed up and had to "unglue" - it was a real PITA and not a task I'm in a hurry to repeat.

However, the bookcase I created was accepted and I'll probably be handing it either today, or when we get back from vacation in 2 weeks.

I get my last project for the class tomorrow which I can hopefully complete before we leave. Woohoo - VACATION!!!
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