Need suggestions for a lockdown mechanism - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-30-2018, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Need suggestions for a lockdown mechanism

I'm planning to build a waist-high stand (with lock casters) that will have a flip table top (a small table top) to affix my 12" planer on one side and a scrollsaw (which I have not yet selected) to affix on the other side of the flip table top. The dimensions of the table top will depend on the dimensions of the planer and the scrollsaw but will be no larger than necessary to allow the tabletop to flip and in the interest of conserving footprint floor space. I don't think I will have difficulty designing this flip-top table but I do not yet have a concept of how to lock the top in place at each corner once the tabletop it is flipped. The tabletop will likely be 2 pieces of same-sized 3/4" plywood sandwiched together with a 1/2" steel rod in the middle between the two pieces to serve as the axle to flip the table top. Ideas about how to secure the table top once flipped are welcome.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-30-2018, 07:06 PM
...then measure again
 
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I'm curious about this too...

Christopher
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-30-2018, 08:08 PM
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3/8 hole through both pieces in the corner, 3/8 diameter pin should do you pretty well. One in each corner would be my way, just for the security

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post #4 of 11 Old 08-30-2018, 08:54 PM
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I have used barrel bolts fastened to the base and holes drilled in the sides, however with a planer you will want it locked so there is no movement if you will be using an out-feed table.

Perhaps some blocks with t-nuts and bolts that go through the sides into them.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #5 of 11 Old 08-30-2018, 10:05 PM
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Ive made flip top tables before but used no pins or bolts to pivot on. My plan simply lifts the top off the table frame and is turned over by hand. On each side, put 4 blocks at each corner to fit snugly inside each corner of the stand. When the planer side is flipped down, the 4 blocks hold the scrollsaw in position. When reversed, the planer is up.
These 4 blocks are below and out of the way of each of the tool tables.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-30-2018, 10:08 PM
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I used a piece of hinged 2X4 on each end of the flip table, with a barrel bolt (not installed yet in pics) on the other end opposite the hinge.

I find it easier when building a flip table to make it out of 2X4 stock, making a frame from the 2X4s with a rabbit cut in each side. Plywood is glued in on one side and the heavier machine mounted. Then the lighter machine is mounted to it's piece of plywood, and the plywood then screwed into the opposite side rabbit. Makes it easy to mount the machines.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-02-2018, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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After mulling this over, I think what I might do is place a hinged block (a block maybe 3.5x2x1" with a hinge on one side) on the inside of each of the four posts supporting the flip top table where the top of the block would contact the bottom of the flip top table. This way I so I could (1) using the hinge, turn/rotate each of the blocks inward to support the flip top table, and (2) using the hinge, rotate the blocks outward to release the flip top table so I can rotate it. I could put a very slight incline/angle on the top surface of each block to force firm contact with the underside of each end of the flip top table to keep the table from wobbling. Any thoughts?
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-10-2018, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Here is series of pics showing how I made the flip-top table. Due to the max file size limit for including the pics here, will follow with an additional post for the last two pics.
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-10-2018, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Here are the last two pics. Planer on one side, scroll saw (jig saw to me, old school) on the other side. Don't know how to rotate the pics so they are right side up - maybe the editor can fix this in this post.

Best Regards,
Cassidy
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-10-2018, 03:43 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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use a gate bolt

Use two gate bolts, one either side like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/National...B&gclsrc=aw.ds


You don't need the end piece. just drill a hole after you have traced around the bolt when it's extended. That will assure a snug fit, but make a test hole for a proper size drill first.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #11 of 11 Old 11-10-2018, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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I think gate bolts would work fine. I used the hinges shown in the pics with an inset disc shaped magnet in the inside of each leg to hold the swing blocks in place. Seems to work OK.
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