Need some advice for a picture frame - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Question Need some advice for a picture frame

I'll start by saying I've never made a picture frame, done matting, and anything else that is associated with a picture frame.

I have a picture that is 55"w and 25"h and I am wanting to make a frame for it to hang it above my fireplace, but since I know next to nothing I could use some advice. I'll list my questions / information to help get better advice. I went to a few places and they all wanted $350-$500 for the honor and I'm pretty sure I can make something just as nice for a quarter of the price.

Information:
1. This will likely be painted, my lady wants it to match or go with our grey tile (has hints of brown & red) and the fireplace surround is a light colored wood with a Gem Glo Cherry Mahogany stain on it
2. I will be using tempered glass, so this will have some weight to it
3. I don't want something that looks too bulky or overly thick ( I want the focus to be on the image, not a frame overwhelming everything)
4. I think I want some sort of profile on it, but my lack of knowledge I have no clue what would look nice.
5. The glass will be tempered 60" by 30" 1/8 thick
6. I think I want 45 miter corners, unless I can be shown something nice that might sway my opinion.
7. I think I want the matting to be roughly 2" on all sides
8. With the glass size I choose it should leave me with a 1/2" surround on all sides (55" pic + 4" matting + 1" to secure behind the frame)

Questions:
1. What type of wood should I use? This will probably be heavy and I don't want the frame to start to sag/warp over time
2. What type of joinery should I use? My tool selection for this task is fairly limited and again... heavy. I want it to stay together and not pull apart over time.
3. What are some of the measurements I should keep in mind when making a frame (I'm sure I wont think about something)
4. Is 1/8" glass thick enough?
5. Is 1/2 " on all sides enough to secure the glass to the frame?
6. What type of profile looks ok on a frame? I have a Bosch 1617 router, will that run whatever bit I would need?
7. What am I not taking into account on this?
8. Whats a fair price for glass of this size, online prices vary by from $150 to $400? I'm not sure what sizes HD or Lowes will do, nor any local glaziers. I'd rather not spend hundreds on a piece of glass for a picture frame


I have watched hours of videos on YouTube and people seem to not address any of my questions really, they cut the wood glue/spline/staple it together and their done. I want something that looks nice and I want it to be solid. And since this is a rather large frame I'm sure there are considerations I've not thought of.

To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.

~Ralph Waldo Emerson

Last edited by Techsniffer; 06-10-2017 at 12:34 AM.
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techsniffer View Post
Questions:
1. What type of wood should I use? This will probably be heavy and I don't want the frame to start to sag/warp over time
2. What type of joinery should I use? My tool selection for this task is fairly limited and again... heavy. I want it to stay together and not pull apart over time.
3. What are some of the measurements I should keep in mind when making a frame (I'm sure I wont think about something)
4. Is 1/8" glass thick enough?
5. Is 1/2 " on all sides enough to secure the glass to the frame?
6. What type of profile looks ok on a frame? I have a Bosch 1617 router, will that run whatever bit I would need?
7. What am I not taking into account on this?
8. Whats a fair price for glass of this size, online prices vary by from $150 to $400? I'm not sure what sizes HD or Lowes will do, nor any local glaziers. I'd rather not spend hundreds on a piece of glass for a picture frame
1. Doesn't matter. The wood will be on an edge, so it won't sag like a book shelf.

2. 45 miters look the best. You can use biscuits, dowels, splines, etc. If it's a big, heavy picture, I literally glue the corners and stick some metal brackets to the back.

3 & 5.Leave your tape measure in the toolbox. Get your picture, glass, matting, and back laid out. Cut a rabbet the lenght of you board as thick as the little stack you just created, cut a 45 on one end, then use the glass and picture as references and mark your measurements on the board using a sharp knife. Work one side at a time. As Charles Neil says, "Sneak up on it." Cut it a little too long, then trim it up.

4. Yes.

6. You're going to have to pick what you think looks good. Nothing in a standard bit set looks good to me, so I use square stock.

7. You're thinking to hard about it. I know people are always concerned about waste, but that's how you learn.

8. Sheets of glass from the box stores are typically way less than $100, but they're sheet glass and not tempered. That's because guys who buy it (like me) need something simple to cut at home. A picture doesn't need tempered glass anyway.
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post #3 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 09:28 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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a glass and frame door

I just finished a small display cabinet in Cherry that had a glass door. It's very similar to a picture frame with mitered corners and a rabbet on the back for the glass. I used splines in the corners for additional strength. I had to hold the frame in the tenon jig to make the kerfs for the splines. I had to cut the splines to a snug fit in the kerf, which BTW required 2 passes. Here's the process:
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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I would love to use splines, buy my current very low end table saw has the T style miter slots and the rough top, so making a spline jig that will work and run smooth really isn't something I can do. Any advice for how I might make it work? Splines would probably be the easiest solution, I just can't work out how I can do it with my current table saw.

To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.

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post #5 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 01:44 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Hopefully ....

If you have the tabs that stick out into thew miter slots and they are 5/8" wide not 3/4" you have a POS saw. Having said that, you can make a spline jig that rides on top of the fence, against the fence, OR slides on both miter slots like a sled.







https://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...g&action=close

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 06-10-2017 at 03:45 PM.
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post #6 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If you have the tabe that stick out into thew miter slots and they are 5/8" wide not 3/4" you have a POS saw.
That is exactly what I have, and why I've been setting up my shop to make room for a new SawStop PCS. With that said I've tried not to waste time making jigs for a saw that is useless junk and one that I intend to replace within about 6-7 months. I too had thought about making something that could ride along the fence, but the fence is such crap any amount of force and it tends to move the back end out upwards of 1/4". I've tried to adjust it, tighten it, align it... just hours wasted for a zero gain.

I hate to blame my tools, but when they can't even perform the job they were designed to do I'm not sure what else to blame.

To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.

~Ralph Waldo Emerson
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 03:02 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Sorry to hear that ..

If the stock fence is crap, then maybe time to make one, rather than struggling with that one?

Here's one I made for the bandsaw using 3 pieces of wood and a bar clamp:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/bandsaw-fence-58065/


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 03:44 PM
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Pictures in the size that you are framing seldom have glass in the front. In fact I do not ever remember seeing one.

Leaving off the glass would greatly simplify your project and lower the cost.

George
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 03:48 PM
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interesting point!

What is your "picture" .... a photograph or a water color may require a glass with UV protection, but oil paintings typically do not.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 10 Old 06-10-2017, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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What is your "picture" .... a photograph or a water color may require a glass with UV protection, but oil paintings typically do not.
Its a print of an older DC limited comic cover called "Crisis on Infinite Earths", yeah nerd power! UV may be an issue with how sunlight comes into the arched glass, but if need be I can make another print.

If you were wondering, there are 562 characters displayed on it
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To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment.

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Last edited by Techsniffer; 06-10-2017 at 05:33 PM.
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