Need help with adhesive - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-16-2019, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Need help with adhesive

So i'm building a shadow box. For the backdrop board I used MDF and I bought some "leather" material from Hobby Lobby. It has what appears to be a cotton backing on it. Now I know it isn't real leather but i am wanting to ask you guys your opinions on what would be the best adhesive to use for sticking this leather fabric to the MDF. Has anyone ever tried this before?

I'm currently at work so I cannot upload any photos but I can when I get home if anyone needs them.
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-16-2019, 03:12 PM
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3M Super 77 (spray) or similar.

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post #3 of 13 Old 08-16-2019, 03:34 PM
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The easiest thing to use would be some spray adhesive. It would sort of be like putting a headliner on a car. Fold the fabric in half and lay it on the surface. Then spray both the material and the wood and allow to dry and then stick it. Then fold the other half over and do that side. It's real easy to get a wrinkle in it when you stick it is why it's easier to do half at a time.
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-18-2019, 02:15 AM
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First sand the wood with 100-200 grit sandpaper and sand back and forth over the area that you want to adhere the fabric to it will clear the bump then wipe the surface with a damp rag don't get your wood wet. I use mod podge which can bought on online store there are different mod available in the market i use paint brush to apply it on the wood after applying it evenly place the leather or fabric on the surface make it even properly smooth out the wrinkles let it dry for 24 hrs.
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-18-2019, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
The easiest thing to use would be some spray adhesive. It would sort of be like putting a headliner on a car. Fold the fabric in half and lay it on the surface. Then spray both the material and the wood and allow to dry and then stick it. Then fold the other half over and do that side. It's real easy to get a wrinkle in it when you stick it is why it's easier to do half at a time.

This is the simplest thing to do. It is essentially just contact cement in a spray can. I have an antique desk in my entry way that has a piece of real leather attached to it this way. Held up real well for over 30 years now.


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post #6 of 13 Old 08-18-2019, 09:01 AM
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I made an old steamer trunk where I attached faux leather
on parts of it as well as a cloth material on the inside lining.
I used 3M-77 and it works great. you have maybe a minute
to reposition and rub out wrinkles before it sets up for good.
liquid contact cement from the can is very unforgiving.
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-18-2019, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Smith_inFL View Post
I made an old steamer trunk where I attached faux leather
on parts of it as well as a cloth material on the inside lining.
I used 3M-77 and it works great. you have maybe a minute
to reposition and rub out wrinkles before it sets up for good.
liquid contact cement from the can is very unforgiving.
If you can reposition something you've sprayed with Super 77, you probably applied it wrong. Properly done you spray both surfaces to be stuck together, let the glue dry, then bring the 2 pieces together. As soon as glue touches glue, it's locked in that spot, there shouldn't be any shifting

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post #8 of 13 Old 08-18-2019, 03:21 PM
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to clarify making adjustments with 3M-77:
in my project, I sprayed both sides and put them together wet.
I did not let them dry or become tacky prior to assembly.
this is what gave me a short amount of time for "minor" adjustments.
you have to pick the material up and put it back down - not slide it around.
when working with compound curves and tight corners, this was necessary.
this worked for me in my project. (and it gets a lot of compliments).
and this is by far not my first rodeo with contact adhesives.
YMMV

.

.
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-18-2019, 09:29 PM
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I have done both Naugahyde (What you apparently have) and felt. A thin and even layer of TiteBond will work very well. While it is wet the material can be stretched and adjusted. Just let it dry for a few days with Naugahyde as it is not porous enough and the drying will have to go through the MDF.

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post #10 of 13 Old 08-19-2019, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Smith_inFL View Post
to clarify making adjustments with 3M-77:
in my project, I sprayed both sides and put them together wet.
I did not let them dry or become tacky prior to assembly.
this is what gave me a short amount of time for "minor" adjustments.
you have to pick the material up and put it back down - not slide it around.
when working with compound curves and tight corners, this was necessary.
this worked for me in my project. (and it gets a lot of compliments).
and this is by far not my first rodeo with contact adhesives.
YMMV

.

.
Didnt mean to insinuate that you didnt know what you were talking about, and i do apologize if it came across that way.

Applying the glue like that worked for your project, but all the same its not the 'proper' method of doing things and i felt shouldnt be recommended as such. Trying to stick things together wet just results in a failed glue joint 9 times out of 10, and if someone unfamiliar with contact cement usage tried it that way, it probably wont end quite as well

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post #11 of 13 Old 08-19-2019, 07:49 AM
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I have used the 3M-77 adhesive and even if you allow it to dry completely is a lot more forgiving than contact cement. With contact cement you have to put something under the material you are laying to elevate it until you get it aligned before you stick it. The spray adhesive at least has a little give to it until you roll it.
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-19-2019, 12:50 PM
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They are different products...

The 3M-77 "spray adhesive" is different than a "contact cement" in my opinion, having used both. I've used the 77 on cloth, vinyl and leather and the contact cement on HPL, so different applications also...

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-20-2019, 10:40 AM
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I was a picture framer for many years and the fastest and easiest way to deal with this is to use mat board with a surface that you like. They make mat board with leather look, fabric covered, etc.

I always adhered the mat board using an ATG gun (adhesive transfer gun). Adhesive transfer tape is also available as manually applied. It is like applying the adhesive portion of scotch tape without the celophane.

Cut the board to size and glue in place. Fast, easy and the "fabric" will always be properly adhered.

The alternative is to use 3M 77 spray adhesive to attach the fabric to the mat board and then glue the mat board to the MDF. I would not apply the fabric directly to the back of the shadow box.
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