Need Help - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
View Urlryn's Photo Album My Photos
Question Need Help

Hi,

New to the forums and new to woodworking in general. I Got into Home theater and audio and decided to build myself a couple of speakers boxes made from MDF.

There are 8 mounting holes I drilled through in the recessed area. On the underside i glued in 1/4" extended t-nuts to use with some 1/4" black socket cap screws.

Well one of the screws got stuck and when I tried to loosen it, the t-nut came loose and took the MDF, that it was glued to, with it. So i have no leverage to pull it up and try loosening the screw. So decided to drill it out. Started with a size under the 1/4" and the bit ended up breaking inside of it.

So now i'm stuck...not sure what to do to get this screw out without damage to the box or speaker.

Came here to see if some of you experts had any recommendations?

Urlryn
Urlryn is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 12:50 PM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos


Tee nuts aren't designed to be glued in. Could you post some kind of rough drawing showing what you are referring to? That might make it more clear on the orientation of the nut/screw, and the box.










.

cabinetman is offline  
post #3 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
View Urlryn's Photo Album My Photos
Hopefully these will help.

First image is the speaker itself with the outer gasket on.

Second image is the completed box with the 1in recessed portion for the speaker/gasket/mounting holes (prior to painting and drilling the holes)

Third image shows the speaker in place to mark the mounting holes for drilling (without gasket on).

This last picture, since i didn't have one handy, is showing another person who used the T-Nuts the same way i did. I had heard other people use t-nuts saying the prongs would bend and such and come out. So to avoid that I though adding the glue would give it a bit more support and keep it from moving.

Urlryn
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	speakersub.JPG
Views:	104
Size:	93.5 KB
ID:	75888  

Click image for larger version

Name:	speakersub3.jpg
Views:	70
Size:	90.7 KB
ID:	75890  

Click image for larger version

Name:	speakerbuild4.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	46.1 KB
ID:	75891  

Attached Images
 

Last edited by Urlryn; 07-21-2013 at 01:27 PM.
Urlryn is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
View Urlryn's Photo Album My Photos
These are the Tnuts i used and the socket head
Attached Images
  

Last edited by Urlryn; 07-21-2013 at 01:26 PM.
Urlryn is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 01:36 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,159
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
expert...?

The issue is the "T" nut is on the inside of the box and is spinning with a broken bit stuck in it...right. You will have to access the interior in some way to hold the nut or remove it. I had the same issue when a weld nut came loose inside a double wall tool cabinet... no way to access it. I drilled an access hole and used a vise grips to hold it.
In your case you can saw off the screw head and pull the speaker off IF there is enough head exposed. Otherwise I suggest a hole saw of sufficient diameter to grip the piece of wood and "T" nut, then replace the plug and use Liquid Nails to close the gap. The L N will become very hard and stiff and should be sufficiently strong. Epoxy would be another choice, but it is generally thinner and will run down inside.
Use 3 small screws around the gap in the perimeter to center the plug and one screw in the center to hold the piece in place while the L N sets up. I use the same approach when replacing a plug in drywall. Remove all the screws when everything is solid.

You can also attach a thin strip of wood on the inside by putting it in across the hole. It must be long enough to span the hole on both sides so you can glue it in. Then your plug will rest in the strip and not fall inside....use glue everywhere.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-21-2013 at 01:40 PM.
woodnthings is offline  
post #6 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
View Urlryn's Photo Album My Photos
Spinning Tnut with socket cap screw in it.....and the screw has the broken drill bit in it.

I can pull back the gasket and reach the head of the socket. I couldn't use a dremal saw attachment and cut the head off being that the space between the speaker cone and gasket is to small.
Maybe if I went at it at a angle...criss crossing it per say.....
Or I though maybe is there a way to grind the head down along with the broken drill bit inside it?

here is a picture of it from above...pretty brutal i know!
Attached Images
 

Last edited by Urlryn; 07-21-2013 at 01:50 PM.
Urlryn is offline  
post #7 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 02:11 PM
Old School
 
cabinetman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 24,027
View cabinetman's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by Urlryn View Post
Spinning Tnut with socket cap screw in it.....and the screw has the broken drill bit in it.

I can pull back the gasket and reach the head of the socket. I couldn't use a dremal saw attachment and cut the head off being that the space between the speaker cone and gasket is to small.
Maybe if I went at it at a angle...criss crossing it per say.....
Or I though maybe is there a way to grind the head down along with the broken drill bit inside it?

here is a picture of it from above...pretty brutal i know!
Is the speaker to be exposed or will there be a grill of some sort covering the front of the box? If exposed, you don't want to do much grinding if that area will be seen. If the other screws are installed, and can be removed, can you wiggle the speaker frame enough to get a gap on the other side?

Will the back or bottom of the box be seen? A drastic step would be to use a hole saw to make a clean hole to access the inside, and then make a decorative insert/cover that looks intended. Once inside, you can get a grab on the tee nut.






.

cabinetman is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 02:27 PM
where's my table saw?
 
woodnthings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE, Michigan
Posts: 27,159
View woodnthings's Photo Album My Photos
Use yout Dremel to grind the drill bit down

Then use a countersink to remove the remaining part of the screw head or a much larger drill bill. When the head is drilled down far enough the speaker will just pull off. No need to drill out the screw itself. Been there done this myself.
something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-82degree...item46028682fa

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
woodnthings is offline  
post #9 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
View Urlryn's Photo Album My Photos
all the other screws came out no problem. So i can get a gap about 2-3 inches high. but you have to go through the speaker frame to get to it.
I tried using one of my 36" clamps to put some leverage on it to help lift it up some and then tried to wedge it some .... didn't work out well.
Not sure i could get my arm in there to put the vice grips on it....

I've been using a larger drill to keep whittling it down as you can see in the picture....guess its just slow and go.....till i can pull off the speaker

Urlryn
Urlryn is offline  
post #10 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 02:49 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Belden, Mississippi
Posts: 629
View Bill White's Photo Album My Photos
Metal grinding and speaker magnets don't sound like a good process.
Why not just cut the back of the speaker cab, fix the prob, then seal the cutout.
Maybe a tapered cutout, then plug with a tapered part????
Bill
Bill White is offline  
post #11 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 03:36 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 291
View bladeburner's Photo Album My Photos
I agree with Bill, 'cept I'd cut the entire back off, save the speaker and start fresh. MDF is cheap.
bladeburner is offline  
post #12 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
View Urlryn's Photo Album My Photos
I was trying to avoid opening the box....i'm a total novice at this stuff.
I went out and bought a dremal tool thinking if i grinded down the socket cap itself then i could just push the bolt through with the t-nut and be all done.
with the cap all mangled as it is....how will putting vice grips on the t-nut help?

Thanks for all the suggestions and help btw!

Urlryn
Urlryn is offline  
post #13 of 13 Old 07-21-2013, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
View Urlryn's Photo Album My Photos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bladeburner View Post
I agree with Bill, 'cept I'd cut the entire back off, save the speaker and start fresh. MDF is cheap.

i've thought about this more than once today! lol.
Urlryn is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome