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Need good 5" sanding disc

7K views 21 replies 14 participants last post by  Andrew LB 
#1 ·
Has anyone found good 5" sanding disc's that will stay on the sander for as long as the disc is still good for sanding? I have tried numorus different brands but so far they all come off the disc pad LONG before the the disc is wore out. I have replaced the sander pad but it did not help. Hate wasting good money on junk!:furious:
 
#2 · (Edited)
are you using Peel and Stick disks or Hook and Loop ??
if you have the smooth pad, and you want to keep the sander,
you can purchase a conversion pad that you can put on the
sander to accept the H&L disks.

I have had a few of the PSA smooth pad sanders in my early years
and when H&L came out and I switched over, I never looked back.
I still have two Porter Cable 5" smooth pad sanders and haven't
used them in over 15-20 years.

.

.
 
#11 ·
I like Mirka also and have virtually replaced all of my conventional sandpaper with it, all grades from 80 to 600, in both 5" discs and 2-3/4" rolls, for use on 2-3/4"x5-1/2" Dura-Block H&L sanding blocks, for orbital and hand sanding. About the only conventional sandpaper that I still use is carborundum type (wet/dry) for metal and in large sheets for sanding larger flat surfaces. That is, excluding the 12" disc, 4"x36" belt and spindle sanders.

Mirka H&L mesh sanding media comes in at least two versions/varieties, AbraNet for wood and AutoNet for autobody work (metal). I just happen to have gotten started with the AutoNet before I knew about the AbraNet, but I think it would not have mattered as I have historically done a lot of metal working. AutoNet seems to be more durable but is also more expensive and harder to find. I have found it in some specialty woodworking stores, but they all seem to have the AbraNet. I have bought most of the AutoNet that I have from industrial finishing shops that serve the autobody industry.

One thing I like best is that the mesh H&L media can be cleared of dust buildup easily if done frequently enough. It really only works well on well dried and non-gummy surfaces. Anything soft or gummy will clog the mesh, and by soft, I do not mean soft woods, if dry.

I've also fabricated my own sanding drums using self-adhesive velco.

Rick
 
#12 ·
One time, when I guess I was very tired, I started sanding without any sandpaper attached. After that the H & L did not stick well. I replaced the H & L with the kit I referenced earlier.

If the H & L does not fight you to remove it, I suggest you replace the hook pad on the sander rather than search for another brand of sanding disks.

Mine sticks so well that I would certainly call it "child resistant" for removal.
 
#15 ·
Technique

It may be you!

I feel I can say that because I had what sounds like the same problem, and then found out it was me! I'd frequently replace the sanding pads, and they would not last. The "hooks" are a thermoplastic. It turns out I was using too much pressure, generating heat, and melting the hooks.

Now: Same sander. And, I've been using the same pad for 2+ years and it still grips like nobody's business. Only reason it's 2 years and not 4 is that I let a friend borrow it, who used too much force, and it melted the plastic hooks.

Downside: using less force takes longer to sand. Upsides: less force (less heat) prolongs the life of sandpaper as well as the hooks.

I'm referring to two sanders: A Makita 5" ROS with the trigger style handle, and a Bosch 5" ROS with the pleated filter.
 
#16 ·
Exactly what I thought!

I was thinking the stick on discs were failing, not the hook and loop type, but apparently it doesn't matter. :surprise2:

The rule is ..... "let the tool do the work" applies to sanders as well as tools with blades ... circular and saber saws. Heat is the enemy of efficiency when it comes to cutting or abrading type tools.
 
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#18 ·
I have a hook and loop type Ridgid random orbital sander (ROS) from Home Depot. I bought it because it has a fitting for a normal shop vac hose and it comes with a lifetime guarantee (if you go through the pain of registering it online immediately after purchase).

I am using Freud sanding disks. I don't press when I use the ROS; I rely on its weight. The worn-out sanding disks take a lot of effort to remove from the hook and loop attachment. I search for an exposed edge, then use a fingernail to peel it up enough to pull it off. I agree with the others that your problem may be melted or worn-down hooks.

I had a Harbor Freight ROS that I returned. It sanded faster than the Ridgid ROS, but had a lot more vibration, too. I returned it because of poor dust collection. I could not find a way to attach a dust collector, and the rectangular fitting for the included dust bag kept opening a crack and letting the dust out.
 
#20 ·
I have that same sander. You forgot to mention it was cheaper than most of the others available. It cut much better than my P-C ROS. And the dust collection works well with or without the shop vac.

My only complaint is that the soft start takes so long to get going that I sometimes have time to double check that I actually have the thing plugged in before it even starts.
 
#19 ·
Hook & loop pads do wear out after considerable use. If you can't get a replacement, you can sand off the remaining hooks and use one of the peel & stick to hook & loop conversion kits. I recently did this to a sander that wouldn't hold the hook & loop paper well any longer. It worked great and my sander works like new again.

Charley
 
#22 ·
Mirka sells a pad protector which keeps your hooks from getting ruined by heat. It's designed for their Abranet and Autonet mesh sanding discs but it will work with pretty much any disc out there. If you have a 5" 8-hole sander, you'll likely have to add some holes which takes a few minutes.


I stopped using traditional sanding discs a number of years ago and started using Abranet. It got too expensive though and now i'm exclusively using Autonet which is almost identical but half the price (when on sale) for a box of 50. Autonet outlasts any other sandpaper i've used, but just make sure you use the pad protector. Otherwise your hooks will poke through the mesh and get melted off.



 
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