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post #1 of 6 Old 09-04-2013, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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Milling lumber

I noticed when watching videos of woodworking projects that sum milk their wood by sending it thru the jointer, planer etc and some do not.

I have a bunch of oak from Home Depot should I be milling before using? Does the answer change if I was making a tabletop and therefore needed all the pieces in the glue up to be the same height etc?

Also, how much should the planer be taking off in the milling process?

Thanks

Thanks.
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post #2 of 6 Old 09-04-2013, 02:01 AM
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I know almost next to nothing, so take everything I saw with a grain of salt. The lumber you get from HD or lowes is already surfaced, normally S4S, and generally doesn't need to be planed again. Unless the surface has been beaten up. The wood in the videos probably isn't S4S. The board needs to be planed enough to get it to the desired final thickness. Asking how much to take during each pass, I do not have an answer.
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post #3 of 6 Old 09-04-2013, 07:29 AM
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thicknesses are usually pretty consistent

However, if you are gluing boards edge to edge to make a wider panel, they may have some curves. You will have to joint the edges or straight line rip them for the best results. Always pick through the boards to find the straightest by sighting down the length first. Some boards my be slightly cupped or twisted even though their thickness is uniform.

If you are joining boards face to face as in a workbench top, then you have probably ripped them to the width you'll need for thickness of the top. The ripped boards will be the same dimension, but unless they are straight you will have slight offsets when gluing up. Jointing them straight will be best here also.

A curved board ripped on the tablesaw will have a slight curve as did the original. A straight line ripping jig is the only way to insure a straight edge.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-04-2013 at 04:06 PM.
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post #4 of 6 Old 09-04-2013, 07:30 AM
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Just remember,and this is irrespective of where you're sourcing the wood.....Glue likes a "fresh" edge/surface to work with.It makes a measurable difference in the bond.

How you go about cutting/sanding/planing is a huge subject and is dependent on not only what equip is available but also to what the craftsman is comfortable using.For instance,to some using a long benchplane is a daunting task.......next guy comes along and it's like an extension to his arm?We're an edge sander shop...it's different strokes kind of thing.

Those who say it cannot be done shouldn't interrupt the people doing it.
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post #5 of 6 Old 09-04-2013, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the answers. So it sounds like jointing the edge is the way to go when glueing together for a tabletop and the like. What about planing the surface of the boards? Should that be done to ensure all boards are exactly the same height?
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post #6 of 6 Old 09-04-2013, 11:07 AM
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Sometimes the SDS wood will not be milled to the same thickness ( and width)....This caused me a little issue makeing face frames. It would also be an issue for table top glue ups, etc.
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