Making tenons with dado blade - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-12-2012, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Making tenons with dado blade

I'm new to this forum, so I hope I'm doing this right. I'm building an end table which uses mortise and tenon joinery. I'm new to mortise and tenons. The problem I've encountered is keeping my workpiece from sliding laterally on the miter gauge as I move the piece through the saw since I cannot use my table saw fence. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-12-2012, 04:03 PM
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There are a myriad of jigs and jibrones out there for doing M&T joinery on the tablesaw. To keep the wrkpc from moving, have you tried to simply add a sacrificial wood fence to your miter gauge and then clamp the wrkpc to that?

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...-tenoning-jig/
http://www.bobsplans.com/FreeJigPlan...g/TenonJig.htm
http://www.finewoodworking.com/Skill....aspx?id=30743
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...NpjlzCZrqz8Srg

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post #3 of 12 Old 11-12-2012, 04:19 PM
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I make the first dado cut at the shoulder of the tenon, then work toward the end. After the shoulder is cut square, a little lateral movement doesn't hurt. This way the dado blade is cutting equally on both sides of the blade and tend to exert less side force causing the wood to move. Also, it is helpful to adhere sandpaper (80 grit, or so) to your miter gage.
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-12-2012, 04:41 PM
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I use my fence, but if you can't I think the sacrificial backing and sandpaper would work as well as anything. Or you could extend the backing to the right side and fasten a stop block to it.

"I long for the days when coke was a cola and a joint was a bad place to be" (Merle Haggard)
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-12-2012, 04:44 PM
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+1 on cutting the shoulder first.

I have an Incra mitre gauge with the Flip Stop positioner. If I am not able to use this due to the piece being too long for the gauge, then I use a clamp to hold the piece to the mitre gauge.

Lots of other jigs in an earlier reply.

I read about gluing sand paper to the gauge. It should help, but I have found clamping works for me.
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-12-2012, 07:44 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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I use a tenon jig

After making a simple jig to hold the piece vertically, it is a snap to cut both sides of the tenon to the same dimension.
Like this:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/t...odified-15905/

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #7 of 12 Old 11-13-2012, 04:23 PM
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A miter head isn't of much use without adding a wood fence, too short, too slippery. You can glue some fine sandpaper to the bar and use a stop block. This is a pretty simple jig for cutting tenons on the flat. If the thickness of your stock varies, cutting from both faces will double that difference.
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-14-2012, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Stop Block

thank you for your feedback. Now I'm going to show you just how much of a woodworking beginner I am. How is a stop block used in this application?
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-14-2012, 09:08 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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look at the upper right

You will see a small "C" clamp on the end of the extended fence board which is clamping the stop block to the fence.
You slide the material over to the right until it hits and stops at the block. Then you make your dado cut, flip it over holding against the block again and make the second cut. Pretty simple.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-15-2012, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Stop Block

Thanks for the lowdown on a stop block. Yes, very simple.
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post #11 of 12 Old 11-15-2012, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Paul. I did what you suggest. but took it a step further. On that first cut at the shoulder, I set my dado narrower than the depth of the tenon. That way I was able to use the saw fence as my stop to hold the wkpc steady on that first cut. Then I moved the fence away for the final cut when a little lateral movement isn't critical. It worked well. Thanks again.
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post #12 of 12 Old 11-15-2012, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine View Post
+1 on cutting the shoulder first.

I have an Incra mitre gauge with the Flip Stop positioner. If I am not able to use this due to the piece being too long for the gauge, then I use a clamp to hold the piece to the mitre gauge.

Lots of other jigs in an earlier reply.

I read about gluing sand paper to the gauge. It should help, but I have found clamping works for me.
2X the Incra mitre gauge flip stop. Use the flip stop to make the shoulder cut then flip it up to remove the rest of the waste to the end of the mitre. Having a high quality dado set, one that gives you a nice flat dado, is a plus.
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