Looking to make a living room table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 10-08-2019, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Question Looking to make a living room table

Hey all,

I am looking to attempt making a replacement stand for a living room table I already have. The table top is 3/4" glass, 60" by 30". So it is pretty heavy.

I have no significant experience in woodworking, other than woodshop in the 7th grade (a long time ago). But I figured I can get some pre-cut lumber from Home Depot or Ganahl, and assemble it pretty easy. And then sand and stain it.

I created a design that is simple enough, but I was hoping I could get some feedback to ensure that I was doing everything right. Below is the 3d render I created. I first did a 2x4 version, and then a 1x2 version. The 1x2 certainly looks less bulky, but I do want to be sure that it would safely support the 100+ lb piece of glass. And then I was unsure what type of wood I should use.

Any feedback that you have I would greatly appreciate. TIA
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post #2 of 24 Old 10-08-2019, 08:55 PM
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2x2's or 2X4's will support the weight of the top, your concern will be how stable the base is, you will need a system of joinery where the supports can't rack sideways or endways. Simple butt joints are not that strong, you will need a more secure type of joint.
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post #3 of 24 Old 10-08-2019, 09:14 PM
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Welcome to the forum

The 1 X 2 will definitely hold up the vertical load in theory. But that is not the problem. The problem is the junk pine you would get from the BORG combined with the lack of knowledge of joinery. Most 1 x 2's from the BORG wouldn't be dependable enough in quality to hold nails or screws well enough to support the heavy glass top.
The 2 X 4's are certainly way more than you would need in strength, but again, screws alone may not be good enough to hold up over time. There is nothing in the design to prevent racking.

Read up a little on joinery and think about simple lap joints and glue. The lap joints will give some support against racking. Then send us another sketch. Please leave the red out out. It makes it hard for us old guys to see well. Use a lighter color or no color at all.

The overall design does look though.

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post #4 of 24 Old 10-08-2019, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
2x2's or 2X4's will support the weight of the top, your concern will be how stable the base is, you will need a system of joinery where the supports can't rack sideways or endways. Simple butt joints are not that strong, you will need a more secure type of joint.
We were on the same track, you just type faster than me. LOL

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post #5 of 24 Old 10-08-2019, 10:24 PM
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Tony’s right about the quality of common lumber 1x2’s from the big box store, but some of the big box stores also sell 1x lumber in oak which is stronger and would look a heck of a lot better.

I’d also be inclined to add stringers between the legs to support the glass so the glass isn’t sitting on just four points.
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post #6 of 24 Old 10-08-2019, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses. I guess I was hoping I could just screw it all together and I'd be good. I don't have the tools to make joints for the wood. I guess I'll need to rethink what I want to do. Or find a place that can cut and notch all the wood for me.
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post #7 of 24 Old 10-09-2019, 07:32 AM
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Adam - due to the relative inexpensive price of construction lumber,
I would suggest you build the table to your design with the tools
you have access to.
sometimes we "seniors" forget where we came from. building your first project
can be frustrating but also very rewarding in the aspect of learning as you go.
skill and talent are acquired with actual hands on doing things.
if the table does not work for you after it is built, you can use the wood to make
some nice end tables. (and that would be more practice).
then - you can use that experience to venture into oak and other "better" woods.
pre drilling and countersinking the screws will help prevent splitting.
if you are not going to use wood plugs to cover the screws, countersink
the heads, apply a couple of drops of candle wax on the screwhead before
filling with wood filler. (just in case you want to take it apart later)
all the best !!
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post #8 of 24 Old 10-09-2019, 09:51 AM
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Sure, it can be screwed together.
Deep countersink and fill with a dowel, or wood filler.
I would be looking at a better quality wood than construction lumber.
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post #9 of 24 Old 10-09-2019, 11:48 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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That's another big issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickstep View Post
Tonyís right about the quality of common lumber 1x2ís from the big box store, but some of the big box stores also sell 1x lumber in oak which is stronger and would look a heck of a lot better.

Iíd also be inclined to add stringers between the legs to support the glass so the glass isnít sitting on just four points.

Your design is essentially an "upside down table" where the glass is the floor and the shelf is the top. The unsupported glass is asking for breakage. All someone has to do is apply excess pressure on top and the glass will break, how much is excessive ... who knows until it happens. Add some stringers.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 24 Old 10-09-2019, 12:18 PM
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It would be interesting to know what type of base the original table had before commenting on whether the top requires more than four points to support it.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #11 of 24 Old 10-09-2019, 12:35 PM
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You most definitely want support on all edges of that glass top.


It would not hurt for you to try and make that project out of cheap wood. Just BE SURE that the structure is solid BEFORE you place the glass on the top.



You want to be absolutely sure that the glass is protected because it is NOT cheap. (Telephone a local glass company and ask the price of a piece of tempered glass that size.) This protection is to include some means of being sure that the glass cannot be accidentally knocked off the table top.



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post #12 of 24 Old 10-09-2019, 01:57 PM
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If this is 3/4" thick tempered glass it does not require additional support, in fact 3/8" would be adequate supported as shown, if in doubt do some research on the subject, uninformed best guesses mean nothing, here or elsewhere.
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post #13 of 24 Old 10-09-2019, 03:42 PM
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Using "Glass Calculator https://www.dullesglassandmirror.com...oad-calculator. This top should support 2100 lbs. Way more than I thought. Someone please double check - I dont want to have a senior moment on someone else's table

Also, I calculated the top to weigh approx. 125 Lbs That's a lot of weight.
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post #14 of 24 Old 10-09-2019, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for the feedback. I was looking at oak from home depot. I need to see how well they can pre-cut it for me. And then find the right screw size to hold it all together. I think I am going with the 1x2's. And then if I need to, I can get some decorative bracing.

And yeah that glass is currently supported at 4 points, but they are closer together than my design. But it is 3/4" and heavy as a mother. :)

I'll try to post some pics my work and the finished product.
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post #15 of 24 Old 10-09-2019, 08:47 PM
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Home Depot is not going to rip boards into 1x2 for you. They may cut to length if you do not ask them to do too many.


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post #16 of 24 Old 10-10-2019, 02:25 AM
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I wonder whether it is time to invest in a basic, inexpensive circular saw?

Add a basic way to guide the saw, which could be as simple as a board with a straight edge and two clamps. Find some thick rigid foam to support it during the cuts. (I use scrap 4x4s, but they aren't as easy as rigid foam.)

When you're shopping, remember to get eye, dust, and ear protection.

-> What do others think?
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post #17 of 24 Old 10-10-2019, 06:53 AM
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It's a good start

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post #18 of 24 Old 10-10-2019, 11:02 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Glass is flat!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam-S View Post
Thanks all for the feedback. I was looking at oak from home depot. I need to see how well they can pre-cut it for me. And then find the right screw size to hold it all together. I think I am going with the 1x2's. And then if I need to, I can get some decorative bracing.

And yeah that glass is currently supported at 4 points, but they are closer together than my design. But it is 3/4" and heavy as a mother. :)

I'll try to post some pics my work and the finished product.

Remember from high school geometry, 3 points determine a plane?
So, 4 points of support must be perfectly in a plane or the glass will not be supported evenly. It will wobble when placed on the posts and that may cause it to slip or break.

So, how do you build a post structure that's perfectly level across?
It will definitely take some planning and possibly a flat surface to work off of. There's two ways you can approach this. One is to build as accurately as possible using identical length pieces all cut at the same time using a cut off jig. The other is to admit defeat right off and plan on using shims under the glass on the post tops. Probably a combination of both is best. The glass itself will determine if shims are needed and how thick. Maybe plan on using a veneer, pieces of leather, or some other uniform material that will look nice from the top side of the glass. That way you can add shims under it without them showing.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 10-10-2019 at 12:00 PM.
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post #19 of 24 Old 10-10-2019, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Remember from high school geometry, 3 points determine a plane?
So, 4 pointsof support must be perfectly in a plane or the glass will not be supported evenly. It will wobble when placed on the post and that may cause it to slip or break.
This was my biggest concern. Home Depot has 1"x2"x8' boards, but I have read that they arent very accurate at cutting them to length. I guess I was hoping I could assemble in my garage on the floor to square it up and then sand them level. But I did plan on using felt or something as a shim/cushioned resting point between the wood and glass.
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post #20 of 24 Old 10-10-2019, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam-S View Post
This was my biggest concern. Home Depot has 1"x2"x8' boards, but I have read that they arent very accurate at cutting them to length. I guess I was hoping I could assemble in my garage on the floor to square it up and then sand them level. But I did plan on using felt or something as a shim/cushioned resting point between the wood and glass.
Any glass shop will have plastic buttons intended to support the glass.

I would do some research on types of joints before selecting any material, it will be very important to make the base as rigid as possible as it will be top heavy and tend to rack with time.

As for cutting, there are some very inexpensive handsaws available that you could use with a wooden miter box. It is very important to glue any joints once you have dry fitted them.

Forgot to add:
Only the two legs on each end or each side have to be exactly the same length so stack two boards and cut them together.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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Last edited by FrankC; 10-10-2019 at 12:55 PM.
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