Leaning Gate - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-25-2016, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
Ray by the Lake
 
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Leaning Gate

New to the site.


Not sure if this is the right place to be but maybe someone can answer my question.


Sorry for the long winded description below.

I have an 18’ gate for my RV. It is attached to an 8x8 PT post that is embedded in cement. The post is level in all directions. There was another 8x8 PT post on the latch end of the gate. But the gate leans vertically and I had to manually pull the top of the gate towards the gate post when I latched the gate.

The gate is constructed using 1x6x6 cedar boards attached to 2x6 frames that each have two diagonals that cross each other using half lap joints. Originally I had two 8’ gates and a 4’ walk gate separated by an 8x8 post. The driveway angles back about 20’ then goes straight back to the RV pad. Because of the angle and the limited space for the truck to turn, the 16’ opening wasn’t wide enough.

So I bought an 18’ steel farm gate and attached the 4 gate sections to it. I then connected a boat trailer swivel mount jack on the latch end. The wheel is on cement when the gate is opened. Now I had an 18’ gate with the walk gate still separated by the 8x8 post.

I was still having problems getting the RV in place without hitting the post where the gate latches. I removed that post and connected it to the end of the gate so it looks like there is actually a post there when the gate is closed. But the gate leans with or without the post being attached to it.

Since I don’t have a post embedded in cement on the latch end, how can I straighten the gate vertically so it isn’t leaning?

Thanks, Ray
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-25-2016, 06:12 PM
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An upright on the hinge side of gate extending 2 or 3 feet above the top. Cable with a turnbuckle attached to top of upright and the bottom of gate at least 2/3rds out from hinge side. Tighten cable using the turnbuckle until gate is level.
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post #3 of 7 Old 09-25-2016, 08:36 PM
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With a 18' gate you have to get rid of the wood post. It will never work. You need a 6" diameter steel post bolted to a large concrete slab. I would go deep where the post bolts down and about 4" wide and all the way across the driveway.

I know a single gate is simpler but two gates would be a lot less stress on the posts.
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-25-2016, 08:58 PM
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If your gate is hung on a metal "L" hinge which is screwed into the wooden post, it could be as simple as unscrewing the bottom hinge out 2 turns and screwing the top hinge in 2 full turns.
A properly made metal gate should not sag.
If the gate itself is sagging, then use the cable as suggested by Kerry's above.
Good luck.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-25-2016, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. The gate doesn't sag. The swivel wheel at the latch end holds the gate up and level. The problem is that on the latch end, the gate leans outward about 3 inches. I thought about using the turnbuckle/. I know that it will help a sagging gate but I am not sure about a gate that leans on the latch end. I will try it to see. Thanks again
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post #6 of 7 Old 09-25-2016, 11:38 PM
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Sounds like you are saying the gate is racked. Crossed cables from each corner could allow you to "unrack" it.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-30-2016, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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I somewhat resolved the issue. I tried the turnbuckle method to unrack the gate but it didn't work. I was able to unrack the latch end by pushing at the top corner of the gate. This helped.

I had cut off the original post and dug out some of it where it was cemented in the ground. On the bottom 1-1/2" of the new post I routed a 1/4" rabbit on all sides. This post was attached to the latch end of the gate so it hung about 2" below the bottom of the gate. This allowed the bottom 1-1/2" of the post to drop into the post hole when I lowered the swivel jack. This secures the gate when it is closed.

But it still had some lean to it. So I angled the 1-1/2" rabbit on the front side of the post to allow the post to tilt toward the back. I then added a 3/4" board to the bottom front side of the post. Now when the post drops into the hole, the longer front causes the post to lean back and correct the leaning. Not the best way to do it, but it works.

Thanks for the responses.
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