large butcher block island top - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 06-11-2017, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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large butcher block island top

so im going to try and make a rather larger butcher block style island top for the first time, about 7 1/2'x5 1/2' x ( approximately 2") edge grain top. i plan on making it out of Cherry and full 7 1/2' strips. i currently have a 15" old school powermatic planer, 8" grizzly jointer and a table saw (which i have tuned up and cuts 90 degrees) and has a new freud glue rip blade, i think its called glue rip. i have a plan of attack but want to run it by you guys to see what you think as this is by far the largest top of this style or any style that i have made.

after letting the cherry acclimate to my shop ill run the boards through the jointer and planer to get them all parallel, and 90'd and to the same thickness. then rip my 2" wide strips out of the boards, flip them so the edge grain is up, which will be the island top surface and and then glue them. i was planning on gluing them up in 10"-12" wide sections using cauls on top and bottom in multiple places so i can better manage the boards being as even as possible. then glue the individual 10-12" sections up to each other one by one

so if i cant manage to get the boards all nice and even would a 2" thick slab be thick enough to run just through the planer or should i joint them first? use one of those planer jointer sleds to get off the 2 or 4" section my 8" grizzly jointer cant get then flip to other side and plane it as well? if it is recommended to joint what i can on the jointer then use the planer sled, what width of board would be too wide to do that or does it matter? meaning would a 10" wide board over and 8" jointer with 2" un jointed section be better then a 12" wide jointed board with a 4" un jointed section? never used one of those sleds so i plan on throwing some scraps together to give it a go first but would appreciate any thoughts.

cheers
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-11-2017, 06:09 AM
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First glue up your 10" to 12" wide sections. Determine if you can get smooth enough with hand held tools. If not then, run those sections through planer.

George
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post #3 of 6 Old 06-11-2017, 11:35 AM
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I just got done making a 10 x2 ft cutting board out of cherry, it was easier then I thought it would be, I did what I think you are planning, I glued up the boards in about 6 inch sections then glued the two sections together to get a little over 12 inches each, then ran them through the planer for both sides, then aligned them and glued the two pieces together

It all came out good but make sure you watch for snipe and if you have any make sure you trim it off or somehow make it flat.

I have a 20 inch Grizzly planer and it is set so there is very little snipe, but I still run a waste board the same thickness as the board I want to keep flat butted up against the end of the board so the feed roll will be pushing down on the waste board to stop the snipe
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-11-2017, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not overly skilled in hand planing material smooth, I've done it with mixed results... the house I purchased the gentleman left behind 4 hand planes, 2 of them being old Stanley's and one of those is pretty long abou 10". Def need to be refurbished. Was thinking I would re furnish and give it a go.
My power planer def leaves some snipe sometimes was going to over size the length of the boards and cut down with my track saw, make some cherry cutting boards maybe with the waste
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-11-2017, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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On a finishing note, I've read that some people will put a layer of lacquer or something to seal the island top on the bottom and oil the top for the purpose of the bottom not absorbing excessive moisture at a much different rate as the top because the top will be exposed to sunlight and dry A.C. Air to prevent twisting of the final product, thoughts?
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-11-2017, 02:22 PM
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I was taught to use the same finish front, back, sides everywhere
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