Laminate edge banding - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-08-2020, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Laminate edge banding

Do plastic laminate mfg's offer solid edge banding that matches the surface material so that you dont wind up with a brown line from edge trimming.
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post #2 of 14 Old 07-08-2020, 08:15 PM
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there is no way that anyone here would know what all the
mfgrs offer in the way of bandings.
could you be a little more specific ?
perhaps describe your project and your concerns to sort of
narrow the field so that we can help you with accurate responses.
if you have photos, that will help a great deal.

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post #3 of 14 Old 07-09-2020, 12:42 AM
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Depends. If you are using as standard product like Wilson Art or other phenolic backed material your just going to have to run it through a laminate slitter or a table saw. Remember the pattern or color is printed on the surface so you are stuck with the lines. There is 1mm 2mm and 3mm solid PVC banding and the colors are limited. What is now coming on market are lazer heated glue nozzle and PUR systems like Holz Her or Brandt that use a solid edge and no glue pots are used, but that's a different story

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post #4 of 14 Old 07-10-2020, 12:20 AM
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It wouldn't make any difference if the edge banding were solid or not if the surface HPL isn't, the surface is the dark edge that shows not the edge banding edge, it is covered with the top HPL. Only the very end of the edge banding would have the dark edge.
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-10-2020, 08:40 AM
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Solicor......
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-13-2020, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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This is the stuff I have been looking at. Its PCV. I guess you just glue it and edge trim it.

https://www.edgebanding-services.com...s/edgebanding/
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-13-2020, 10:25 PM
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BigJim is correct the thickness of the laminate is going to show unless you edge band afterwards, which is not a good idea.

But, that’s interesting I wasn’t aware of that material. If you can match to the laminate sounds like a good alternative to trim routing. You might be able to edge band last and cover the laminate, but I’d be worried about getting caught and coming loose. Depends on application.

I’ve used PVC edge banding on melamine. I usually adhere with Speed Tape.
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Last edited by DrRobert; 07-13-2020 at 10:28 PM.
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-14-2020, 10:45 AM
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If your going to buy 3mil and put it by hand it's usually done with contact adhesive. You might check with a commercial shop or maybe o Ebay for smaller run roll of what you need. Whole rolls are 300-600ft...

We always buy rolls so I'm sure if you can get it in smaller quantities...
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-14-2020, 10:53 AM
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Pick a color
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post #10 of 14 Old 07-14-2020, 11:08 AM
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for some of the Old Timer counter and table enthusiasts:

I may be wrong, but, some years (decades) ago, I "think" I remember seeing
a specific profile cutter bit (perhaps for a shaper) that cut a very specific
profile in the table edge - then the reverse matching strip of wood that
had the laminate glued to it. then the two were glued together and the
"black edge" was almost invisible.
of course, this would not be something the average hobbyist or small time
woodworker would have. but, I think it is available.
you just have to look for it. if anyone is just starting out and wants to
pursue counter and table top manufacturing, (like restaurant grade tables),
it might be worth checking into.

here is my very feeble attempt at describing how it works: the green line is the laminate.
the blue line is the cutter bit profile.

Laminate edge banding-edge-profile.jpg

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Last edited by John Smith_inFL; 07-14-2020 at 11:12 AM.
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post #11 of 14 Old 07-14-2020, 01:12 PM
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John, I think what you are describing are plywood edging router bits.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...od-edging-bits

Not a cheap solution.
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-14-2020, 01:24 PM
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Terry - that bit is not what I saw.
the one I saw specifically cuts the profile that I show in my drawing. (crude as it may be).
when the thin sliver of laminated wood was inserted into the table edge,
it was a perfect fit. a little (very little) sanding on the edge and it looked
as if the laminated (or veneered) particle board was solid wood with no indication it had
a laminate (or veneer) on the top and edge.
anyway - it is just a thought tossed out there in case some young up-and-coming
craftsman wanted to pursue it.

.

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-14-2020, 02:48 PM
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Some of us old timers are so accustomed to seeing that thin black line, that we dont see it any more unless pointed out to us. Solid counter tops like Corean was kinda like one of the first to eliminate the line.

Some people still like that thin line. Gives the laminate some 'personality'.
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-14-2020, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Smith_inFL View Post
Terry - that bit is not what I saw.
the one I saw specifically cuts the profile that I show in my drawing. (crude as it may be).
when the thin sliver of laminated wood was inserted into the table edge,
it was a perfect fit. a little (very little) sanding on the edge and it looked
as if the laminated (or veneered) particle board was solid wood with no indication it had
a laminate (or veneer) on the top and edge.
anyway - it is just a thought tossed out there in case some young up-and-coming
craftsman wanted to pursue it.

.
John, even though the profile of the cutter I posted is different the idea is the same. If you click on the Lee Valley link youíll see that the router bits come in pairs. One cuts the edge of the panel and the other cuts the profile on the solid wood trim. The pair of bits is $170Can or around $125US. Both are adjustable to deal with variations in plywood thickness.

Iím with Tony B. Seeing the edge of the laminate never bothered me and Iíve done lots. I always attach a solid wood edge band before attaching the laminate. I then go at it with a quarter round router bit to get a profile with the edge of the laminate is squared off followed by a quarter round in the wood.
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