Knocked a hole in the wall this week. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-01-2018, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Knocked a hole in the wall this week.

Customer wanted space opened up between two rooms in their new house. The wall happened to be a bearing wall which not only held up the ceiling in both rooms but the roof as well. For this reason I used a steel I-beam for the header. Since the wall was a bearing wall it was necessary to construct a temporary wall on each side of the wall to hold up the ceiling while I took down the wall.
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 02:33 AM
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That looks so much bigger, I bet the customer was well pleased. Are you just going to add a threshold in the opening ? Tidy job......where's the picture of all the mess

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post #3 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 02:46 AM
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Gotta love it when the first step to taking down a wall is building 2 more, sturdier walls
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 03:13 AM
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Taking out that wall sure does make a difference, Out of curiosity where'd you pick up that I beam from anyhow?
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 05:12 AM
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In UK practice is to use a sturdy plank and builders jacks. Either steel beam or reinforced concrete lintel.
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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That looks so much bigger, I bet the customer was well pleased. Are you just going to add a threshold in the opening ? Tidy job......where's the picture of all the mess

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I don't know why she didn't ask me to do it but she is going to have someone put flooring in where the wall was. I have plenty to do on the job anyway. I've got to put in a couple of pocket doors, fix a void around the top of a skylight and build a vanity cabinet for the bath.
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Gotta love it when the first step to taking down a wall is building 2 more, sturdier walls
The ceiling rafters for each of the rooms meet over that wall. Had I taken that wall out the ceiling would have come down. About 18 years ago I did another one which had the exterior wall of the upstairs resting on the beam I put up.
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post #8 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 07:17 AM
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I don't know why she didn't ask me to do it but she is going to have someone put flooring in where the wall was. I have plenty to do on the job anyway. I've got to put in a couple of pocket doors, fix a void around the top of a skylight and build a vanity cabinet for the bath.
That's a big ol floor if there gonna drop a tight fitting floorboard in Wouldn't they lose the expansion gap ?

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post #9 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Taking out that wall sure does make a difference, Out of curiosity where'd you pick up that I beam from anyhow?
Most any steel supplier will carry I-beams. Had there been more weight or a longer span I would have used a larger beam. Since the span was only about 10' I used a 8" beam. It was 4" wide and since one side of the wall had wall paneling on it I would able to put it in without increasing the thickness of the wall.

The first job I put a steel beam in had a second story where the customer wanted the ceiling flush. After making the temporary walls I cut the upstairs floor joists off the width of the beam and inserted the beam up between them. Before putting the beam up I bolted wood to the inside of both sides of the beam so once it was up in place I was able to put joist hangers on all the floor joists. I used a 10" I-beam on that one.
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post #10 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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That's a big ol floor if there gonna drop a tight fitting floorboard in Wouldn't they lose the expansion gap ?

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Since the flooring has probably been there for about 50 years I don't think there will be much of a wood movement issue. You wouldn't be able to match the tongue and groove in that old flooring anyway so it would just be a matter of fitting about three strips of flooring in there with some adhesive. Anyway the wall to the left of my picture is a hallway which the flooring is continious through both rooms.
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post #11 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 07:49 AM
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Since the flooring has probably been there for about 50 years I don't think there will be much of a wood movement issue. You wouldn't be able to match the tongue and groove in that old flooring anyway so it would just be a matter of fitting about three strips of flooring in there with some adhesive. Anyway the wall to the left of my picture is a hallway which the flooring is continious through both rooms.
Oh I see

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post #12 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 08:17 AM
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Quality job Steve.
Alot of guys only think in terms of wood. I applaud your use of the steel I beam here. That's exactly what should have been done!

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post #13 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quality job Steve.
Alot of guys only think in terms of wood. I applaud your use of the steel I beam here. That's exactly what should have been done!

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The steel also kept the header to a minimum. Using wood I would have had to double 2x12's. The 8" beam was 3" less plus it will never ever sag.
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-02-2018, 11:02 AM
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Big job. Well done.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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