Kitchen Cabinets ??????? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 02-23-2010, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Kitchen Cabinets ???????

Without compeletly ripping out all of my kitchen cabinets , and doing a complete re-model of my kitchen. I was wondering if anyone here has ever skinned cabinets with a veneer ,and how they turned out, and what kind of a job was it ?? Realizing of course that I will need to replace doors,drawres, and face frames. Any Ideas ?
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post #2 of 21 Old 02-23-2010, 11:18 AM
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If I was considering the replacement of doors, drawers

and faceframes, I wouldn't hesitate for a minute about replacing the cabinets first. The cabinets are the easiest part of the equation. Go for the whole enchelada, you won't be sorry.

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post #3 of 21 Old 02-23-2010, 12:16 PM
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I've re-faced a few using 1/4 inch plywood, but it was a serious pain and I wish the job was a full replacement, but it was about 1/3rd the cost.
Prefinish the sheets and the rip to about 1/16th inch oversize and sand/plane/cut length on-site to fit.
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post #4 of 21 Old 02-23-2010, 01:58 PM
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i've refaced kitchen cabinet faceframes using veneer with very good success. the successful criteria for this is having a sound cabinet to begin with. and the interior is satisfactory, fixed shelves in servicable condition.
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post #5 of 21 Old 02-23-2010, 03:57 PM
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I would think that replacement the drawer fronts and cupboard doors would be relatively easy and worth while, but replacing the face frame may be tricky depending on how it is joined to the case.
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post #6 of 21 Old 02-23-2010, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psych0ticNemes1s View Post
I would think that replacement the drawer fronts and cupboard doors would be relatively easy and worth while, but replacing the face frame may be tricky depending on how it is joined to the case.

I'm thinkin' just glued and brad nailed


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post #7 of 21 Old 02-24-2010, 03:14 PM
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Covering your face frames with veneer is possible. People do it all the time. Most places that offer inexpensive re-facing of cabinets use this method. You can get pre-finished, stick-on veneer also, in full sheets, or you can order all the pieces you need cut to the sizes you specify. I have seen that offered somewhere. I would not recommend using brads to adhere the veneer. Most veneer is too thin for a brad to have much, if any effect other than a lot of unnecessary holes to fill, and by the time you sink the head of the brad, you'd be through the veneer anyway. Got to be glued.
I HAVE re-faced an entire kitchen by replacing the face frames along with doors/drawer faces and, while it is a big job, it was literally half the cost for the homeowners of what it would have taken to build all new cabinets. ($8,000 vs. ~$16,000 for all new) If the face frames are put on with finish nails and glue, they will usually pry off without much problem because the cabinet sides are usually plywood, and the bond, when it's old, just doesn't seem to be that strong. At least, this has been my experience.

Last edited by mmwood_1; 02-24-2010 at 03:16 PM. Reason: clarification
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post #8 of 21 Old 02-24-2010, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I have all the intentions in the world to replace face frame,drawer fronts and cabinet doors Thanks all for taking the time to resopnd


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post #9 of 21 Old 02-24-2010, 08:33 PM
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I'm sitting here in my recliner next to three 4x8 sheets of peel and stick Cherry veneer, 'cept it is for the interior of a boat.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #10 of 21 Old 02-26-2010, 01:41 PM
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It is really pretty easy to reface a kitchen with veneer. I don't know about removing the face frames. I would just veneer them. Here is one I did in natural cherry for a client. Veneered the rails and stile on 3 sides, replaced the doors, new crown, and put cherry panels under the cabinets. In addition to the original kitchen I built two pantries and an island and faced in cherry.

BEFORE




AFTER



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post #11 of 21 Old 02-26-2010, 01:44 PM
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Wow! That is an amazing transition. So you veneered the face frames and cases, but replaced the doors and kick boards?
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post #12 of 21 Old 02-26-2010, 02:33 PM
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Veneered the toe kicks as well.

Rocky
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post #13 of 21 Old 02-26-2010, 02:45 PM
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I've done it, but not with veneer. I hate working with veneer. I used thin plywood on the exposed sides of the carcasses, and used 1/4" thick stock I resawed and planed to overlay the face frames. I used glue at the intersecting joints, and used a pin nailer to fasten the faceframes. I used some adhesive on the sides of the carcasses in addition to the pin nailer.

Of course the doors and drawer fronts required replacement.

Looks like new cabinets, and a heck of a lot cheaper.
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post #14 of 21 Old 02-26-2010, 04:03 PM
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I agree; that kitchen transition is nothing short of miraculous! Very, very nice work there. :)
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post #15 of 21 Old 02-26-2010, 06:58 PM
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Didn't mean to hijack your thread Chili Cook, but thanks guys for the comments!

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post #16 of 21 Old 02-27-2010, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Didn't mean to hijack your thread Chili Cook, but thanks guys for the comments!

No problem ! I think I just may have to do this I't something I've been wanting to do for sometime now ! By the way I did notice something in the before and after pics Who ate the M&Ms ????


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post #17 of 21 Old 02-27-2010, 12:37 PM
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Leo and Rocky Perhaps you could explain in more detail the application of your veneers.

Is "peel and stick" sized with a knife and straight edge or on some type of tool specifically designed for these sheets.

Where do you get it?

Is there any finishing problems associated with absorbtion of distilates?

Do the adhesives work on painted surfaces?

ETC.
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post #18 of 21 Old 02-27-2010, 12:44 PM
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I will be of no help to you. I am a virgin at this and will learn as I go. Good luck to me is a needed thing.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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post #19 of 21 Old 02-27-2010, 12:59 PM
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Don't short yourself...luck is a learned attribute.
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post #20 of 21 Old 02-27-2010, 01:09 PM
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I don't have many worries, just one. I am doing a wall on a boat with some curves and a few obstacles. I don't know how the glue is. If it is slightly re-positionable or like contact cement and non forgiving. The simple stuff is making doors from mdf and laminating with the veneer. Pc of cake. I have a pc of plastic that is to hold all the meters for the boat controls. That will be my first challenge. It is flat with a bunch of holes for the meters and screws. Not a simple pc, but I don't think it will be a real challenge. The only real thing that worries me is the wall.

For a finish I will be using a Target coating called EM9300 in gloss. I haven't found out if I need to finish first (hope not) or I can apply and finish. I should eliminate any solvent creep/destruction by using the water based products. I hope.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo http://lrgwood.com
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