Keeping saw blades clean of pitch - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 06-02-2009, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Keeping saw blades clean of pitch

I'm currently doing an outdoor project using pressure treated lumber. After just a few cuts, I'm getting quite a bit of pitch build-up on blades, which is causing excessive dust and bogging-down the saw. I've read that oven cleaner cleans the blades pretty well. Is there any other household products available? Any thoughts on keeping the pitch build-up to a minimum?
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post #2 of 18 Old 06-02-2009, 12:33 PM
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Try some auto polish or carnauba wax on the blade after you get it clean.
Be sure you're using the right blade too, seems if the pitch of the teeth are right you wouldn't get so much contact with the wood in the kerf to pick up the resin from the wood. How about it pros, drop some wisdom on us here.

Last edited by Gary Beasley; 06-02-2009 at 12:38 PM.
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post #3 of 18 Old 06-02-2009, 02:50 PM
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There are so many cleaners that work well, oven cleaner is the last thing I reach for because it's more caustic, messier, and no more effective than 409, LA's Totally Awesome, Simple Green, Goo Gone, Fantastic, Greased Lightning, etc. Clean your blades often and they'll work better for longer, and are actually easier to clean if you don't let it build up alot.
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post #4 of 18 Old 06-02-2009, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knotscott View Post
There are so many cleaners that work well, oven cleaner is the last thing I reach for because it's more caustic, messier, and no more effective than 409, LA's Totally Awesome, Simple Green, Goo Gone, Fantastic, Greased Lightning, etc. Clean your blades often and they'll work better for longer, and are actually easier to clean if you don't let it build up alot.
+1

Dave

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The closer it gets to the end, the faster it goes.
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post #5 of 18 Old 06-02-2009, 02:57 PM
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I concur. I personally use Greased Lighting and clean my blades a couple times a week during heavy use. It takes me no longer than 5 minutes from taking off the blade, cleaning it and re-installing. Well worth the little effort.

Never lick a steak knife.
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post #6 of 18 Old 06-02-2009, 03:25 PM
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ammonia work really well with an old tooth brush.

~Jake Mendez
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post #7 of 18 Old 06-02-2009, 03:54 PM
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I agree with all the others. I use ammonia 'cause it's cheap and effective. If you have oven cleaner...put it on the ground and walk away. Seriously, it interfers with the bond between the carbide and the blade. Then there's fumes and toxicity. Plus a $1 jug of ammonia will last a long time.

Roger
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post #8 of 18 Old 06-02-2009, 04:32 PM
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I seen a blade for specialy cutting pressure treated lumber the other day. It was made by Hitachi and on clearance for $4 and change. It supposably had a green coating to keep the pitch off.

I may just have to head back to the store and see if any are left
Rick
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post #9 of 18 Old 06-03-2009, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger Newby View Post
If you have oven cleaner...put it on the ground and walk away. Seriously, it interfers with the bond between the carbide and the blade

Roger
Roger, I have read this statement before, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how oven cleaner, which is basically lye, can interfere with the carbide to blade bond, unless that bond ( are the teeth brazed on?) is already cracked.

One of the biggest saw sharpening outfits here in the mid-valley (Salem, OR) soaks blades in lye to clean them. Been doing it for decades and they don't get teeth flying off the blades. They told me to use oven cleaner because it's the same thing. Never had a blade or bits' carbide loosen or come off in 16 years. I have to wonder if this is one of those 'myths' which gets repeated enough until people believe them.
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post #10 of 18 Old 06-03-2009, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advise. I had a bad experience with oven cleaner once, so I was apprehensive about using it.
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post #11 of 18 Old 06-03-2009, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mmwood_1 View Post
Roger, I have read this statement before, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how oven cleaner, which is basically lye, can interfere with the carbide to blade bond, unless that bond ( are the teeth brazed on?) is already cracked.

One of the biggest saw sharpening outfits here in the mid-valley (Salem, OR) soaks blades in lye to clean them. Been doing it for decades and they don't get teeth flying off the blades. They told me to use oven cleaner because it's the same thing. Never had a blade or bits' carbide loosen or come off in 16 years. I have to wonder if this is one of those 'myths' which gets repeated enough until people believe them.
Hi Mark - I've seen this controversy discussed before too, and can't comment on the chemistry of it all well enough to even bother, but the fact that Freud recommends against it, combined with the fact that so many other cleaners are easier and work at least as well is sufficient incentive for me to not bother with oven cleaner anymore....

Freud actually suggests soaking in kerosene due to it's neutral pH, but I rarely keep kerosene around and wouldn't want to take the time to let it soak. They also suggest against soaking in straight Simple Green. If you clean the blades often enough, the spray on cleaners only take a matter of 60 seconds or so, then get rinsed, so the pH really becomes a moot point.
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post #12 of 18 Old 06-29-2009, 01:08 AM
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To keep pitch from building up....... Try using PAM I've used it on bandsaw blades with great success
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post #13 of 18 Old 06-29-2009, 03:36 PM
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I really like the idea of PAM or some generic equivalent.

Also to clean blades...

Woodcraft sells 2050 (No not an old DEC computer) that is great for removing gunk from saw blades. It has a nice orange smell. Rockler also has something similar for cleaning saw blades.

BTW - Don't waste money on saw blade cleaning "KITS". An old tooth brush and a plastic paint roller pan seems to be absolutely perfect for the job.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
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post #14 of 18 Old 07-02-2009, 09:51 PM
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Dang,
I must be missing something. I spray the teeth with kerosene, WD-40, or anything similar that's laying around. Let it sit for a few min. It practically melts away on it's own, but I use an old toothbrush for the gummier stuff (like pine) .
It takes longer to get the blade off...

And if you're particular, why not just finish it off with whatever you put on your saw top?
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post #15 of 18 Old 07-02-2009, 10:14 PM
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P.S. I've been using a "cheaper" Freud blade lately ($40). I don't know what they put in that Perma-SHIELD finish, but that stuff is tough and slick! I've never seen anything better.

And I know that lye reacts with many kinds of metals. The possibility of it reacting with the weld on the teeth seems very plausible to me. Try putting lye and aluminum together ... bad juju.
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post #16 of 18 Old 07-02-2009, 10:39 PM
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I use the 2050 on saw blades and router bits,works great
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post #17 of 18 Old 07-02-2009, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick C. View Post
I use the 2050 on saw blades and router bits,works great
Call me stupid... ????
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post #18 of 18 Old 07-04-2009, 07:50 PM
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Sorry, gottcha now Rrich and Rick... 2050. Maybe I'll give it a try.
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