Jointing Glued Pieces - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 02-23-2010, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Jointing Glued Pieces

I already asked about planing glued pieces (thanks for nailing that one down). What about jointing glued pieces?

What I'm doing is on the right. It's a quilt block style cutting board for a quilter. Not my cup of tea, but that's what they wanted.

Anyway, I was hoping I could joint along the side going with the grain (all the grain will be the same direction) and then I could use a table saw or something to get the rest. I just have visions of it exploding everywhere.

So can I do that, or is there a good chance it will catch and explode?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 7 Old 02-23-2010, 06:26 PM
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Are you referring to each individual piece, before assembly? Or the finished product to get down to final dimension?

Either way...a new (read: sharp) saw blade, slow and steady, and use of a riving knife or splitter behind your saw blade, and you should have no problems.

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post #3 of 7 Old 02-23-2010, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, after assembly to get it to final dimension.

What's a riving knife or splitter??

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post #4 of 7 Old 02-23-2010, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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May as well throw this out there too:

Can I joint across the grain too?

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post #5 of 7 Old 02-23-2010, 07:04 PM
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I would think you would have more of a problem running it through a jointer. I would do it on the table saw, and a splitter or riving knife IMO wouldn't be necessary. It's possible a part could get dislodged and get hung up on a splitter or riving knife.

Or, you could size it with a router, either handheld (with a stright edge and a flush bearing bit), or on a table router with a fence that's been set up like a jointer fence.






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post #6 of 7 Old 02-23-2010, 07:35 PM
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Civil:
a riving knife is a fixed, curved blade or shank that closely matches the contour of the table saw blade. It rides up and down with it, and it is precisely the same width as the blade. Its purpose is to keep the material tight against the rip fence, so that on the outfeed side of the blade, your material won't ride away from the fence, and have the oppertunity to climb the back of the blade and create a kickback.

As long as you have one straight edge, I'm with Cabinetman...do it on the table saw. Don't reinvent the wheel.

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post #7 of 7 Old 02-24-2010, 07:27 AM
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As long as you have done a good glueing job there should be no problem with the table saw.

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